My 1512D for dog rebuild

[dtanner]

Kendell Ide
Thanks for your input its all good. Charlie said to silver solder it and that ain`t a bad idea also. I have to move forward or this will drive me crazy lol. I was wondering where I might find out what the spline count is because like you my eyes would never let me count all them little lines lol.

Thanks Gerry and Jim for your help to date.....


Gerry when are you going to show me the drive shaft in your 129????


Later Don T

 

[kmcconaughey]

Don, if your eyes are bad, mark one spline as Kendell mentioned then use a small screwdriver and work your way around the shaft feeling the splines with the screwdriver tip, counting as you go. Do it at least twice or until you keep coming up with the same number.

 

[dtanner]

Kraig I was giving that some thought as to how to count all them lines and came up with this! I will take a black marker and wipe all the threads wet and the see if a piece of paper can be rolled on over the splines and see if the marks will transfer to the paper. Might work , I got the time lol. Later Don T

 

[fcurrier]

You could post a good pic of it and we could all help you count.

 

[dtanner]

Frank I greased it with lead based grease. its now in here.

I might have to clean up the fan some lol.
Later Don T

 

[mgonitzke]

Don-

Just out of curiosity, why didn't you route that hydraulic line on the right side of the tractor where it belongs? It looks like it's rubbing on the hydro linkage, and it's also close to the fan. I'm not I'd be comfortable with its current location.

Can't wait to see you get that thing done...it's come a long way.

 

[dtanner]

Matt Gonitzke
lol I have gave that some thought, It all works and for now its all goood. I will plum it right later. I want a lift bar down the right side. So don`t want hydr lines in the way, I will have to make a line as i see it.thanks Don T

 

[dtanner]

well if all works out right for me I have bought a 1811 , it has 75 lb plastic weights and a sub frame for a mower deck and a 450 snow blower. The 18M that is it the tractor had the magnets go south and that buggered the fly wheel. So Frank C in Portage Lake Maine will go and pick up the tractor and parts for me , then I guess I will have to come on over and visit this spring. So I might just be able to mow some grass with my 1512D this summer. later Don T

 

[kide]

Don: Do we have smoke yet???? We hafta keep you on track!!!!!

(Good deal, you'll be able to BLOW snow, not just THROW it!!!)

 

[dtanner]

Kendell Ide

Yep I know. the wife won`t let me work on my tractors on the weekend so it will the first thing Monday morning . I will pull the shaft out and pin it. I have to adjust the trunnion as its not near where it needs to be . I thing its at the lowest that it can be set. I will jack up the back wheels and start the diesel up and see where I need to set it at. It has new springs and should be easy to get that set. Then I`am ready to bolt on the rear fenders and seat. The 1811 will give up fenders if there in good shape. Frank C said today that he has fenders in good shape and I`ll just blow some yellow on this set till I get over to get them. I know the 1811 fenders will need to be cut out for my fuel tank , but that is not going to be a problem for me here. Have a great weekend later Don T

I also have to count the spline on the CV shaft so I can have on cut at the right length .not much left to do just install the new lines for the front and back hydraulics. It will soon be SEAT Time lol
Just a note Thursday I have plans to start to take apart my O and get that ready for new paint. I won`t be posting that till done because I think I stirred up enuf feathers for awhile. Later.......

 

[mgonitzke]

Why would the 1811 fenders need to be cut? I'm pretty sure they are the same as the 1512...

 

[lsmurphy]

Don,

The splined end(s) should be cut 1" out from the spline and removed from the shaft and then welded at the end of the shaft, not the middle where distortion will take place. If you used the existing shaft only one end need be cut. If you replace the shaft with 3/4" drill rod both ends need be cut. Any competent drive shaft shop should have no problem welding it back up, this is what they do but on larger scale shafts. The center is where torgue is absorbed, twist. I understand that the factory only heat treated the ends of the shaft and not knowing exactly where the heat treat tappered off on the shaft I'd want to replace the entire shaft and weld on the ends, this way the welder knows that the ends are hardened and the shaft is not, make things more predictable that way. That's my take on it.

Scott

 

[lsmurphy]

Last thought Don,

I'm going to guess that the coupler will/may cause some unnecessary vibration and unbalance, the CV ends won't tolerated that very well. You can always get this up and running and then look for a replacement shaft for the ends and make another one up later.

Scott

 

[dtanner]

Matt Gonitzke

Well Matt I not sure but I think I will need to cut the fenders on the 1811 to get them to fit around the fuel tank and the Rear end dip stick. Not sure but I know a set off a 149 would have to be cut as the battery tray is way to small for the fuel tank.

Leslie Scott Murphy

My plan is to remove the drive shaft in the am and take it to a local machine shop so he can do a spline count and see the set on the spline.He will make me a new shaft after we get the cutter for the spline. In the mean time with the pined shaft I can move the Tractor and work on the hydraulics . I will need a new sold line from the supply port on the hydro to the valve on the steering column, I want to run the feed lines down to a tee and run front and back ports and plan of rubber hydraulic hose for now.

There is still much to do but the tractor must move on its own as I won`t be working on it every day . I have plate for the rear and will have that to build and install that also.

My O is next. Thanks for your for you interest.

 

[mgonitzke]

Don-

You can't compare 149 fenders to 82 series fenders...they are not the same. I'm sticking to my story; the 1811 and 1512 have the same fenders. My 782D and 1512 had the same fenders as my 1811, 582, 682, 580, and every other 82 series tractor I've owned.

 

[fcurrier]

1811 Fenders # 703-0064 1512 Fenders # 703-0064
Price is going up, Don!
Now let's get serious. How many cats on the seat of the tractor Charlie posted? I count 4.

 

[lsmurphy]

Don you got a shop that will cut new splines??????? Let me know how much$$$$$

Scott

 

[aschumacher]

If its maybe any help to anyone, I noted that in a 2yr old catalog from Surpluscenter.com that they had some splined shafts in stock. It was 1-3/8 dia and 21 splines. Maybe they still have them or something you can use.

 

[dross]

Don T, I really enjoy your posts keep it up,
Oh by the way, pan assembly-149- IH545474-R2.

 

[dtanner]

Matt Gonitzke
as this is going to be a work tractor I don`t want a show boat. I just has to be usable and clean looking.Thanks for the models that do fit .

Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
well I had a little talk last night with someone and he told me the jugs on that 18m are worth a few $$. we need to talk lol.

Leslie Scott Murphy

I have to take the shaft apart again because the machinist near here wants to see the shaft. He does a lot of special machining for a university in Halifax and Is now opening a new shop. His basement is to small for his new equipment. He told me that he will look and gauge the shaft spline type and make me a shaft if I will buy the cutter at his discount.He seemed to be very interested in what i`am up to.
Do to the high carbon content of the shaft welding is out of the picture for me. The heat just throws it out of alignment..


Allen Schumacher

Thanks but the shaft should be 5/8" x 15 3/8 " and that is what I aim to make up. Stronger (bigger) will just be more mass that won`t be needed. The shaft will handle more than the hp the diesel can make .
Later Don T