My 1512D for dog rebuild

[fcurrier]

Lookin' good, Don! Are those a drum type brake? I know you're tired, so I'll open a new page for ya!

Never mind, I see now they're not, just heavier duty than I'm used to seeing.

 

[dtanner]

Wel I just had to put some parts on today.My welder was here and took the drive shaft to weld and will return it in the am. Then its set the tunion and go for a drive lol. There is a lot to do here on this 1512 D yet but I have a need to test the drive shaft and the pump after i had it apart and replace all the seals and drive shaft.I`ll just bolt up the seat and go, the breaks will hold lol. Later Don T

 

[dtanner]

I might have to put this blade on and some weight and chains and see if this Diesel will have power enuf to push some snow lol. Don T

 

[dtanner]

I`am off to town this am to find some things i`am missing on my Diesel. I have one spring to hold a side panel on and will need another.Have to pick up the drive shaft also,It will have a sleeve in the center and need two pins so the shaft will be easy to remove and install. we decided on the sleeve as heat from welding would make the shaft run off and would make it hard to get a straight shaft after welding.I hope to be driving this tractor before the day is gone. lol
Thanks for all that helped me with this mod drive shaft, only time will tell if it will be a better shaft than the set up that would be installed at the factory.
Next will be hydraulic hoses for the front angle and rear lines for my dump trailer.
new tires and a 1/4" plate for across the rear frame so I can attach my 3point hitch to in instead of the rear end . lots to do yet to this tractor to make it right for me as a work tractor.
later Don T

 

[dtanner]

heres the drive shaft. It will need to be drilled and pined or bolted through the sleeve on both ends at the proper length.

we drilled holes on both ends 2.25" for drive shaft to slide into to give lots of adjustment.

 

[kide]

Don:
Is that three separate pieces; are the two ends press fit into the center? If not, what keeps the assembly from wobbling? Not second guessing, just not clear here... or is there a carrier bearing on the center?

 

[dtanner]

Kendell Ide
we driled it to be press fit. there is about 2.25" of drive shaft in each end of the sleeve. I don`t know if I should bolt it with grade 8 or use coiled roll pins ? what would you do here with this.I do have a coiled roll pin on the pump end for safety.If I`am going to break something I thought a coiled roll pin is the best to break

 

[mgonitzke]

Don-

I think I would weld those together...I don't think you want to add any more pins in there, as they'll wear and create slop eventually, which basically defeats the purpose of the CV driveshaft.

 

[kide]

Don:
I agree with Matt - if that's a press fit, I'd run bead around the end of the sleeve at both ends of it. Or drill cross holes through the sleeve (not the shaft) and weld sleeve to shaft that way..

 

[dtanner]

Kendell Ide
by your last statement I take it that when I have installed the shaft I could weld throught 4 holes that I will drill in the sleve only not the shaft. then stick the welding rod throught the hole and weld the sleve to the shaft in that fashion.. Is that what your saying ????????

 

[junderwood]

Don,
All I'll say is good luck. I did the same as you have and that shaft is sitting on the shelf. I didn't like it. I used the drive shaft reference I posted long ago and found one the right length. These shafts are simple to remove in stock form and need no more simplification.

You would have been better of counter boring one side and machining a pin on the other then weld it together.

I hope your sleeve works better than the one I made.

 

[kide]

John:
I think part of what Don was concerned with was getting it straight after it was welded (if all that was done was a simple "join" of the two shafts). What were the problems you encountered with the sleeved shaft? BTW - I'm learning here, as I face a similar situation on my 149 - cobbled together mess from the PO that may include a screwed up pump input shaft( I haven't had the guts to pull the clamp-on low speed u-joint based driveshaft off yet)..

 

[dtanner]

I will be installing the shaft today just to get everything lined up and have the clearance so I don`t get any end pressure on the crank, I will scribe and remove the shaft and this scribe mark will give me the right length when finished. John Underwood posted that I should find a shaft the right length and emailed him for the lengths of different Cubs that would have the 15 3/8" that I need. So after receiving no info I have made up my mind as to what I will do to the shaft.

I`am not going to weld it. I will install 1/4" solid GROOVE pins . Thanks for that jim Diederichs
if it works for the pulling tractors then it will work for me here. The sleeve was end drilled true so the shaft sets in about 2.25" on both ends so there is a lot of room for me to put pins in. When I say press fit on the shaft and sleeve it required a hammer to get the shaft to bottom out in the sleeve on both ends so I think that if I pin it when its that tight it should last a long time.I don`t like to weld this shaft as I can`t tell with heat what will happen with warp and with the carbon amount in the shaft tig would be my choice . so as soon as I can find these pins that Jim said to use I will have this 1512 D moving on its own power.
Just got a call from a friend here, he asked when I would have room in my shop so we can start to rebuild his 104 next week. so I need to get this shaft done so I can move on with his 104 and my O. Thanks so much to all who post there views as that helps me make up my mind as to the best way to move forward. Later Don T

 

[jdiederichs]

Lots of hardware stores but especially farm equip. dealers stock those pins. I'd get some a bit longer than the diameter of the coupler as some have a 'lead' or taper to them.

 

[dtanner]

Jim Diederichs

Well things always go backward for me, the pins are not aviable here anywhere in all the local stores from a marine shop to truck center IH. So I ordered a box of 10 and will have them next week. I will put the shaft in and put Bolts in till the pins get here.I can just move on to the tin work and some paint while I waite for the pins. Later Don T

 

[jdiederichs]

Don,

Just use the grade 8 capscrews in there and hang onto the groove pins incase the holes ever wallow out.

 

[kide]

Don:
Are you pinning it so that you can take the shaft out without disturbing the engine or rear end assemblies? That's about the only reason I can think of not welding the shafts to the sleeve..(and if that's why, it's a good reason..). Even with a press fit, I'm concerned that the torque pulses from that big 'ol diesel will eventually make the bolts/pins wallow out the sleeve holes (like the drive plate on the smaller hydros ends up). Just a thought..

Jim:

 

[dtanner]

Jim Diederichs

that is my plan for now with the bolts. thanks for that.

Kendell Ide

the reason I`am using pins is because of the carbon content in this drive shaft. we tried welding on the piece we cut out and found that the heat from welding will make the shaft go out of alignment. I see on the pulling site when grade 8 bolts are used on there pullers and I don`t think this diesel will ever get used that hard. they don`t seem to have a problem with them I have read. If I ever have a problem with this I will have a new shaft made up with the splines I need for the cv joints. I also see that a narrow frame Cub Cadet with a creeper uses a sleeve and I wonder how long they last? I have 2.25" of drive shaft into each end of the sleeve and that should help keep it all straight and tight. As far as the sleeve getting wallowed out from torque
I don`t think that will be a issue for me, only time will tell. The answer and I ask for a quote on making a new shaft at a local shop, he said he would get back to me on the cost. Later Don

 

[dtanner]

where would I find out what the spline count is on my drive shaft ? that would help with the new shaft if I new that. Don

 

[kide]

Don:
I understand..Might as well get on with your plan

I'd have to mark the a spline as an index point with a felt marker and then use all my fingers and toes (maybe even twice on that fine a spline)..