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My 1512D for dog rebuild

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Jim Diederichs
I know you have a idea what i`am up to and the rear joint just has to be welded and cleaned true. this will be done right. I have kept a list of what was used and what was done and well I wish others would post there Ideas.hehe this will be cats.Can`t Waite to take this tractor for a cruse , I have a 450 lbs roller that could use some moving lol. I will have some pictures of the changes later.. Don T
 
Ok the rear coupler is complete and the front coupler will be finished in the am. Here is what i`am doing to put the CV shaft from a 1862 into a 1512 D
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This was the old set up and 2 rag joints.
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this is the new plate I had Made up.
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and this shows the drive shaft all together. I just have to pin the hydro pump shaft fast to the new plate I made and I should be good to go. Later Don T
 
Don T,

inovative!(sp?) That is a great way to put the power to the hydro, wish I'd have thought of that. Is that primered part with the roll pin hole in an entirely new piece or did you weld the collar to the powder-metal piece from Cub?
 
Jim Diederichs
I started with a piece of 1.25 round stock and the center bored it for the hydro pump shaft and then added the pin hole. on the other end of that piece I cut the shaft down to a 3/4" pin the depth of the plate and welded it fast. This is all true and will not vibrate.this should be Cats A for me. the front plate was much easier lol
 
Well guys I have seen a few different ways to attach ground plows and sleeve hitch style and well thats the styile I have here so for the 1512D I have a plan. I will get a cover on the end of the frame like a 1862 and from there I will take the sleeve hitch of my 149 and add that to the plate from the 1862. I think just two brackets(11") bolted throught the plate and back 6' on the top of the frame. Cut out the place to run the bar for the lift from that plate on the top right corner. This will alow the hitch to turn and not hit the tank of fender pan.I have made the trailer style coupler for the ball for my trailer and wood spliter.That will be bolted down half way down the backing plate for the frame. I have built this in two pices like a car or truck with a pin > remove pin slid out trailer hitch. The bottom edge will hold a double ended sleve hitch mounting bracket with four holes for adjusting.So I`am thinking cost here and some welding and a trip to the steel man is next. I think I can build this way under $200. . Lets see , no posting till I work it out
Later Don T
 
Today I took the hydro pump apart to install a new shaft. Po had welded on it and I need to have it done right.
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and the front plate to mount the CV shaft to the diesel is ready to install. I do wish I had remembered the gasket and seal lol
182118.jpg
 
Parts here any day I hope . Its a pain having tractors just sitting taking up work space.
I will have a busy 2010 I think. lol
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The D needs the rearend installed so I can get the correct drive shaft length using the CV drive shaft.
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Loaders dirty and needs a bath and hyd lines cl;eaned up so I can install the hood ,grill and put on my new decals.
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My O needs a paint job and a friends 104 will be started in Janurary I hope. Later Don T
 
Well good things do happen . All my hydro parts are here . I`am eady to put the 1512 D back together. Later Don T
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Kendell Ide
Well I had hopes of this 1512 D smokin before the new year and Tuesday will be it. The wife is back to work so I can spend some time in the shop. We had lots of company here, and the tractors will be worked on soon. I have to make a steel run so I can make a plate to cover over the back of the frame to attach my three point as Cat is not on the list here , to many $$$ for me now. I do have a 125 that needs a sleeve as its bored .20 now and looks like that was not enuf lol. The cylinder has a bad mark in it.Kind of looks like a piece of ring scored it so I want to find a new cylinder sleeve and start off fresh . So for now I just have to find a new sleeve and std. piston and get the 125 running. Lots to do here. Later Don T
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Don,

Check the FAQ and use that process. The wheel will be off in a jiffy with about $5 investment at the hardware store.
 
John Underwood
Bought one of the removal tools years ago and it works great . had that wheel off an hr ago. Now I`am at the grill issue I didn`t know I had.
I`am thinking a washer welded on the broken tab and then cut a slot in it . for now lol.
183162.jpg
 
Matt Gonitzke
I got a mig and a stick here but I do know a friend who did a little weld job for me.Just spreading it around $ .Thanks on the alum I never looked at it .This is to the point now that I`ll soon give up and paint it . Thanks Don
 
I've actually repaired a couple of those tabs with JB weld. That was about 3 years ago and no new breaks. After letting is dry properly and repainting it you can't even tell there's jb weld on the tabs.
 
The Grump just got a pain in his um.... side and doesn't know why.
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Don: I've read in a couple three places that the best (tested even!) penetrating oil is a homebrew of 50% ATF and 50% Acetone. I've bought the Acetone but haven't mixed it yet. Next time you need to pull a wheel.............
 
well all my planning and I got a seal the wrong size
bash.gif
. We did get the pump shaft replaced and back together with the proper plate in the right place. I would do it again in a heard beat.I was just put out by all I heard and well having the manual and well just followed it.I have filled the filer with fluid and will prime the pump. Was thinking that if I fill throught the dump valves some fuild and then fill the dipstick tube then I should take out all the air before I connect the drive shaft.I didn`t order the pump to rear end seal and its maked so I need one now.
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Later Don T
 
Well I fell brave today lol. hope I don`t mess this up.....
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