Archive through September 15, 2009

[aaytay]

I'll agree (not that anybody cares) with Richard for a preference to the electric PTO's..............with the exception of a tractor with a 59M Shredder mounted to it.

As Wes mentioned, the "mechanical" PTO is a much better set up for starting up that much mass as you can "feather" it in to get it going.

I guess I'm just not a fan of the mechanical PTO set ups because they have so many bits and pieces that can cause problems. Coil springs, bolts, nuts, (ever have one of those back off while using an implement?) torsion spring(s), fingers, wear buttons, and lets not even talk about rusted allen-head screws. Ugh!

As Denny says, nothing wrong with a good healthy debate. <font size="-2">Except when we discuss the "perfect" cub, then that picture guy gets all "uppity" about those @#$%^&* SLANTY GRILLS.</font>

 

[dross]

Art! Slanty grill, The Zig Zag?. Thanks for bringing up the "expirience" the Zig evokes.

 

[wshytle]

Richard - I think the limit on branch size for the 59M is 1 inch. I haven't seen a 59M with a chipper chute. I would love to see one if they exist. I have basically the same machine made by Mackissic but mine has the chipper. Depending on the state of the wood, it will chip up to 3 inches. I did see a piece on YouTube where a guy was shoving what looked to be about a two inch sapling in a 59M.
Another two cents worth...Wayne

 

[tteague]

well, my guess would be, as long as the cub had <font color="ff0000">I </font><font color="000000">H on it, it would be perfect!

</font>

 

[dfrisk]

RICHARD C. - I knew when I made the first keystroke nobody was going to change Your mind about elec. PTO's and Q/L Cubbies. It was ALL in the interest of healthy debate. No offense intended or taken.
Like You said, both styles of clutches are durable. Even the transmission clutch on gear drives "Takes a Lickin and keeps on Tickin". I've never had ANY interest in a creeper gear for a CC because the trans clutches are so immune to damage from slipping. Only problem I've ever had with the trans clutch in any GD Cubbie is broken teaser springs.

HEY ART - What are You considering a "Torsion Sprng" in the mech. clutch? I'm only coming up with twenty-eight total parts in the whole clutch assembly including the anti-rattle springs that I always throw away. That includes the three special screws, six hex jam nuts, the levers, and all six set screws. The pilot bearing & locking collar and the fiber thrust button are not in that number.

One other O/T comment about ag tractor LPTO's, most companies put a operator controlled brake on them to slow the rotation of high inertia equip. like rotary (bush hog) mowers, silage choppers. I can understand companies like IH having to add brakes to the PTO clutch to protect operators not used to running power equipment but I REALLY don't feel there is a need for brakes on them. But then I still remember the news blurb about 10 yrs ago after a late spring really wet snowfall here in Madison where eight or ten people had to go to the emergency room to get fingers "Attached, removed, repaired" after reaching into the discharge chutes of plugged snow blowers while they were still running. The news report didn't tell how many were College Professors.

 

[rwilke]

Dennis F.,
Ok, I'll bite....... Why do you choose to not use the anti-rattle springs?

Ryan Wilke

 

[kmcconaughey]

Richard C., yep, I recall our friendly bantering about the PTOs started some time ago, all in fun! Each type PTO has it's advantages, I just prefer the mechanical version. I also recall I stated the ability to slip the mechanical PTO when engaging it as one reason I prefer it.

The bantering is kind of like you and Art and others and I do with the 1x4/5 series. (Although I sometimes wonder if Art might not be serious about his disdain for the 1x4/5 and 1x6/7 series grill shell...

)

 

[kmcconaughey]

I also toss the PTO anti-rattle springs when I do a rebuild, if I don't toss them, the PTO will usually toss them shortly after anyways....

Richard C., did you see my request for dimensions on the QL rubber ISO bushings? I found some rubber bushings that I believe date from the early 1970's that might work in a QL. They are for a shock absorber and are still in a sealed plastic bag. They are shaped the same but I need to know if they are the proper dimensions. TIA

 

[rchristensen]

Kraig Yup you were on my list this morning. Haven't had time to get to the shop before.

Here is a picture of the original Cub cadet ISO rubbers. The original ones were the same top and bottom, not like the ones they sell now where the bottoms are different than the tops.

The original ones had an aluminum insert, they were approximately 1 inch tall and the metal insert measures 1 1/4 inch across.

 

[jbaker]

I am sure this has been posted before but i cant find it in the archive I need the wiring diagram for my 1200. can someone repost for me.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Richard C., what is the diameter of the hole?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Jeff, here's one.

And one that includes the optional lights.

 

[rchristensen]

Kraig Thats just a standard 3/8 in bolt hole.

 

[pvanbenschoten]

A few weeks ago, there was a discussion about engines with two dipsticks.

I finally uncovered my 147 and got this information from it.

147 SN 20500 41U 362866
K321A SN 2225887 SPEC 6099A

The tag was riveted to the engine.

My Dad bought this new in 1971 (I think). I have had it for 20ish years and it is about to get some tender loving care.

I have a new wiring harness because the old wires are very brittle. Since the engine will be out, I will take a look at the balance gears.

Then there is the transmission... I had the hytran changed once a long long time ago... I suppose it is time for another change

 

[kmcconaughey]

Richard C., OK thanks! I'll measure them up tonight. They are shaped more like the rubber bushings in the Moog K5252 kit. I've never seen the Moog bushings in person, nor the original <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> QL ISO bushings so I have no idea of the stiffness of the rubber to compare these to. Oh well if they are sized correctly that's part way there.

 

[jbaker]

thanks kraig the PO has alot of jumpers and this will help

 

[dfrisk]

RYAN - My answer about the anti-rattle clips is the exact same as Kraig's. I can't even get the engine warmed up and run up to my normal mowing RPM before they're MIA.

Funniest thing was the anti-rattle coil spring for the transmission clutch. Pic's in the manual show them outside the friction disc if I remember right. Centrifugal force pulls the ends off the OD of the disc and they "Fly way....." I alwqays install mine on the three roll pins of the clutch driver, then slide the engine back into the clutch disc and hook the ends over the disc. Couple years ago I noticed one installed like that missing on the 72. Absolutely NOTHING left on the roll pin between the friction disc and steel driver plate. And the coiled portion of the spring will not fit thru the holes in the friction disc. Where did it go? Kinda like the small block Chevy engine somebody built up for Hot Rod magazine about 10 yrs ago, they left a cloth shop rag in the engine valley when they put the intake manifold on, down where the lifters, puchrods, etc. are located. Of course the engine blew up catastrophically after about ten seconds on the dyno. The rag was INSIDE the combustion chamber of one of the cylinders starting to blow out an exhaust valve & port. "How did IT get there?!?!?!?"

 

[dclinansmith]

Kraig M. I have used the Moog K5252 Bushings. They have a 3/8 dia hole and were identical to the shock bushings that I already had. I don't remember what the heavy duty ones were made of but I took them out almost immediately. They acted like they were made of steel. I ended up using old IH mounts on the bottom and rubber K5252 on the top. That worked out pretty well as the rubber ones seem to soften up after some use.

 

[kmcconaughey]

David C., thanks for the input. I don't have a QL to use them in, I just don't want to toss them if they are usable for someone.

 

[rtunison]

I put new brushes in my S/G this morning. Cleaned up the commutator etc. Put it back together and wow does that spin up the motor nice now. Problem is the ammeter just sits at neutral. Multimeter shows 14-15 out of the S/G and 13.25 on the battery. I tested the charge coil on the tractor as per the FAQ
and when the jumper was grounded to the motor it indeed slowed down. Anyone have any ideas why the ammeter would suddenly stop working? or any other way to check that I am charging properly. Hummmm