Archive through July 16, 2007

[jwalker]

Mike, check to see if you have 12v when cranking (or run a jumper from the battery to the coil) I had one with a badly corroded wire at the starter switch, would show 12v in the on position but start dropped it to zero. took 3 days to figure that out!

 

[mgonitzke]

Mike M.-

The ignition switch might be toast, too. I've had them go bad and cause similar problems.

 

[kmcconaughey]

John G., I would suspect that there is a small blockage inside the carb. When you say "clean carb" does this mean that you've had it off recently and cleaned it? If so I would doubly suspect a blockage due to knocking something loose that has now blocked a passage within the carb. Time to clean it again. BTDT.

Michael, check if you still have 12v with the key in the "Start" postition. Could be a bad switch.

 

[mhomrighausen]

Dangit, Charlie. I see that you found the hydraulic lift off my 125. It's been missing for years. You can keep the rest of the 125 however.

 

[mmiller]

Kraig and Matt,

I already replaced the ignition switch before I got to this point. The original switch was bad.

Joe, I think you are on the right track; I jumped the + side coil straight to the + battery terminal and got a weak spark....not enough to start though.

 

[jsimpson]

Kraig, I soaked it in carb cleaner for three days before flushing, blowing, and reassembling. I ran a drill bit through the hole below the main jet to make sure gas was getting to the jet, and the main jet is clean and all orifices are clear. I had a spare carb but let it go with all the CC's I sold this year! The only thing that made sense to me, given the engine's behavior, was that the aforementioned hole was restricted. But it's not. At first I thought the carb was percolating and causing vaporlock. But it behaved the same this morning while cool.

 

[lhinds]

Michael I had this hapen to me on A 147. It would crand for a long time before starting then run fine for 2 minutes then shut off. Turned out to be ground on the condenser. Fixed that and a new set of points and it runs perfect. Just my2c

 

[mmiller]

Joe called it. The wire from the start switch to the coil was in bad shape. I was only getting about 6v at the coil when I was cranking. Ran a new wire and she fired up. Now it's starting nicely.

New problem: she's blowing alot of smoke. The PO said it didn't smoke for him, so I'm thinking it's stuck rings. Maybe a little MMO is in order?

 

[mgonitzke]

Mike M.-

Yes, and put a good load on it. The rings are probably sticking from it sitting. Some MMO and a good load on it and it'll probably be fine. Glad to see you got it running.

 

[jwalker]

Mike, some premium and MMO, and load the engine should clear the smoke, my 1250 did the same thing ( parked for 3 years) no smoke now. Glad it worked !
or what Matt said

 

[jsimpson]

Luther, it runs another ten or 15 seconds after I pull the choke full on. So I suspect it's fuel starvation. I've checked spark at the plug when it dies, and it's good.

 

[digger]

John S.
Loosen the fuel line right at the carb and make sure the gas will run full bore for quite a while, then you'll know if it's before or in the carb.
At PD13, I had a tractor that the fuel shut off on the tank was goofy. It would start the tractor then die. Seems some of the old O ring was causing the problem.
Just a few thoughts.

 

[jsimpson]

Charlie, it'll empty it's tank better than I can mine!

 

[digger]

John,
Well there ya go, You musta messed up along the carb line then, rip it apart one more time and recheck things would be my guess.

 

[digger]

BTW John,
THAT was just a little more info than I really wanted to know.

 

[jsimpson]

OK Charlie; I will. But it's a REALLY simple carb, and the needle and float are working right, the feed hole is clear and the jet is clear. What else in there could possibly be shutting off the fuel flow? Inquiring minds need to know so that I can LOOK for that elusiveblockage!

 

[mgonitzke]

This is like the 86 I have that won't start when hot unless you flood it... I've rebuilt the carb, had if off cleaned it, (twice) and it still won't work right.

John-

Come to think of it, check the main needle to see if it is still clear. Put the pointy end in your mouth and blow through it to see if anything comes out the holes at the top.

 

[digger]

John,
To be real honest, I have no clue as I've never had a problem like yours. And I rebuild prolly 5 carbs a week for others and have for a few years now and none have ever come back.

 

[kwalesch]

Well, I'm back to the yeller machines, (but I still have the green one). I picked up a 125 at auction last week and made up a whole new wiring harness for it. The ignition switch was bad, so I got a new one, ($32.00!). The voltage regulator is supposed to be new and looks like it and the generator/starter supposed to be rebuilt. HOWEVER! with the GEN wire connected to the regulator the starter spins over. Bad reg? wrong reg? What's the consensus? Ken

 

[rbedell]

Ken W:

A couple of things come to my mind:

(A) Is you V/R and S/G wired like this..??

with the Large Gauge Red Wire going to the starter solenoid.

(B) The possibility exists that that contacts (B & G) on the V/R are closed (stuck or welded), suppling power to the S/G.

You could remove the Gray Wire (B Term) on the V/R and see if the problem stops. You could still start the tractor as normal, just no charging. If this is the case, you either have the V/R wired wrong, wrong V/R, or a bad V/R.