Archive through September 15, 2009

[aschumacher]

Richard T. What model tractor you have? That will let our electrical guys talk to you better.

 

[kfreeman]

Richard T.,

The 14-15 and 13.25#'s sound like Volts, the ammeter measures Amps. If the battery is fully charged and there is not any big auxillary electric loads in use, the ammeter will register near zero.

 

[jreason]

i am intrested in hearing from anyone that has used a repower engine "kit" for a cadet 582 from one of the small engine sellers that uses a 20 hp honda v -twin. would like a 24 hp engine but the repower company only list a 20 hp honda for the 582. am intrested to hear if ayone has used a 23 hp or larger briggs v-twin to repower a 582.

 

[rtunison]

Thanks Allen and Ken. The tractor is a 129. The ammeter has always shown to the charge side while running. Maybe the new brushes and a new battery fixed why it was showing charge.!!!

 

[bnolte]

Getting ready for the annual Maryland Steam Historical Society Steam and tractor show right up the road for me in Arcadia MD. Here is the link for the show, in case anyone is interested in going.
http://marylandsteam.org/

Here is a link to my Flickr page from last year's show:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/52332338@N00/sets/72157607273971991/

And here are a couple of photos from last year:

 

[rtunison]

Another question on the S/G. When I check the voltage output on the A terminal on the S/G the readings fluctuate greatly. Is this normal?

 

[mstetar]

ok i pulled a no no.... i mushroomed the end of the crank on my 149 project... bot really mushroomed, just bulged really right at the end... i wend around with the file, then heavy sand paper then emery cloth still nothing... what else can i do? (i cant get the clutch basket off)

 

[dross]

Matt, your worried about the clutch basket so the bearing and lock collar are not on? Take the key out if you can get it out. Make sure the set screws are comepletely out of the way. Watch the file thing, If you run the engine and use a file you can take off to much way to quick

 

[mstetar]

yes the PTO and lock collar are off, i need to get the crank out and that baskets gotta go!

 

[dross]

Matt if the cranks gotta go. pull the head and pan, pull the rod cap push the rod and piston out, take the bearing plate off and with a brass drift beat on the crank long enough it will come out. or get it pressed out by a friend or machine shop.

 

[kide]

If the end of the crank is mushroomed from beating on it with a BMFH, the main bearings are most likely screwed, too. Put those hammers away when your wrenchin' - they'll just get you in more trouble!!!

 

[rfuller]

My PTO magnet is splitting and missing the plastic in front of the windings. I've seen on here some people have cut the old stuff out and added some kind of sealant. I would like to do this with mine. What did you guys use to repair yours? RTV sealant?

 

[dtanner]

Morning Guys , i`am off to town this am to get some new dash screws and heat shrink for the wires.I plan to stop at the local manpower ofice to hire a person to do some yard work here as i want to finish my 129 loader and winter is coming and i don`t have a stick of wood in the bnasement for the furnace. Have a great day all
Later Don T

 

[dclinansmith]

Rob F. I have repaired about 3 or 4 of those coils using fibreglass resin. I position the coil on something firm and level it. Mix the resin according to the instructions then pour it. I try to get it as thick as possible without running over the sides. My tractors are semi retired but they do mow quite a bit and have not had any PTO problems.

 

[jbliler]

one more vote for the older pto clutches.

 

[thoobler]

ruanability issue! 147 cub starts and runs good,30 seconds later it dies.coil was getting hot.changed out coil and condensor.coil is now not hot,but still dies after 30 seconds or so.20 seconds later starts right up.anyone have any problems like this before?? checked wiring connections.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Todd, is it getting good fuel flow to the carb?

BTW, welcome!

 

[dtanner]

todd hoobler (Thoobler) I Would check the gas cap and see if the vent is working. also the screen at the bottom of the tank and the fuel filter.
I think people with Cub problems should include the model number so there problems could be answered , not all model of Cubs are the same. Just my .02

 

[kmcconaughey]

Don, Todd beat you to that info on the model of his Cub. If people don't list the model in their query, I check their profile and if they only have one model Cub listed I go with that. If they have several listed, all bets are off.

 

[aaytay]

Matt-
Re: Musroom'd crank-shaft...

First of all.. WHAT were you doing to that poor tractor that you managed to mush up the crank???

I'm going to give you a technique that I used on a tractor I owned which had the same thing done to it by a previous owner.

I need to be up front with the fact that I am NOT recommending this to ANYONE because it probably rates up there on the "Why Men Don't Live As Long As Women" scale...but it worked.

Also of note is that the engine in that tractor was basically junk. It was in need of a rebuild. (smoked and knocked) I would not do this to a good strong engine, I just wanted to get the "basket pulley" off without messing it up.

Here is what I did:
Step 1) Remove grill/hood assembly from tractor
Step 2) Start engine (idle speed...I actually turned the idle speed down as low as I could get it without the engine quiting.)
Step 3) Take a 4" angle grinder, turn it on, and VERY lightly touch the very TIP of the mushroom'd part of the crank, holding it there with VERY light pressure.
Step 4) Stop engine and check progress after every 3-5 seconds.

Now, I know this sounds hill-billy (and somewhat unsafe) but it worked very well, and I made sure I did it at a time that I was not rushed and really had things thought through.

The final note is that I approached the tractor from the side and came down on top of the crankshaft in such a way that the crank was rotating AWAY from me. That mean if anything went wrong it would be pulling things away from me, not throwing them toward me. It also meant I was close to the key in the dash should I need to shut it down.

Here's the interesting part about this story. After I got the bulk of the "mushroom'd" material removed from the crankshaft, I dressed the area (engine still running) with a file, and then a scrap of sandpaper I had lying around. The end result was so perfect looking it was amazing. You could not tell ANYTHING was done to it, and the basket-pully slipped right off in my hand.

NOTE: Again, this is what I did. PLEASE do not take this as advise if you have ANY doubts about your abilities.
<FONT SIZE="-2">IMO, FWIW, YMMV, My $0.02, Yada, Yada, Yada...</FONT>