Archive through June 01, 2004

[mkopishke]

Chris,

I don't know what deck you have, but try finding the part # for belt on your deck but try using the complete reference at:

http://ihregistry.com/ref/ref.htm

 

[cbusch]

I have a snow blade too that is missing linkage.
Mine matches this one:
https://www.ihcubcadet.com/forum/messages/106/15556.jpg

I am missing parts #14,19,18, 19, 20, and 21.
Is part 15 suppose to hook up with a rod to the quick connect area? Mine doesn't match up, is it bent?
On other photos I've seen part 21 as a L bracket/lever.

Thank you for the tips,
Chris

 

[rleo]

Chris:
If your using part # 15 on the 125 you have listed in your profile, then there should be studs protruding at the top of each verticle "leg" (at the front of the subframe bracket) that fit into the quick connect.

 

[rleo]

Chris:
Looking at other pics in my archives. Part 14 may be the piece that sleeves through the holes at the top of the legs and into the quick connect. My subframe has the studs welded onto the subframe legs, thus I don't need part 14..

 

[rleo]

Chris:

 

[rleo]

Chris:

 

[bhelms]

is there somewhere i can find out info about my mower deck from the serial numbers??? my numbers are as follows: 421 0 1113....

 

[rleo]

Phoof. Phoof.
Testing.
Is this forum on?
Where is everyone?

--R

 

[rleo]

Everyone must be wrenching.
I'll just talk to myself. . . .

 

[wheinsohn]

Is any one having trouble breaking the screen that covers the flywheel shroud? I just broke the 2nd one in a year on my 129. I put a new one on last summer and it just let go tonight while I was mowing. It sure makes a lot of noise when it goes. I guess I will have to put the 48" deck on the 106 and put it to use for a couple weeks until I can get the 129 back going again.

 

[lbaker]

ID plate missing off my 44 deck. Any way to see what series of 44 it is? TIA

 

[thoffman]

Richard "C", Very cool shade/ROPS. We in Illinois don't need anything like that, the sun does't shine that much as of late. Had another 3.5" of rain over the weekend.

Wyatt,
Can you email me some pix of your R/W/B "IH" version Brinly plow?

 

[jsirois]

Hi guys,

I just finished rebuilding the hydro linkage on my IH 782. It turned out that the plate assembly that holds the springs was stuck to the shaft w/rust and crud. The cam assembly plate had miles of slop and caused speed changes when it was pushed sidways.the springs and lever wern't so bad, but I did the welding since I was already in there .I think I am fixed, but I can't tell until the paint on the fenders Dry. DOES ANYONE HAVE A METHOD FOR GETTING THAT IRON GUARD PAINT TO DRY IN LESS THAN THREE DAYS??? I used 5% enamel reducer for the first job, and 5% standard paint thinner the second time.both seemed to apply and dry the same.I waited 2 days before I could flip the parts to paint the other side. I think next time I will try a Ben Moore Polimide Epoxy(98.00 for 2 gallons) tinted to match. The epoxy has great abrasion resistance and is fully cured (ready to mow) in 48hrs. I would be interested to know what others think about painting.

Thanks John

 

[wcompton]

John-
Try mixing in a hardener, folks here have done it with good results, my paint guy that restores 15-20 Farmalls a year does it too.

Tom-
I'll try to shoot some tomorrow. I'll send what I have tonight.

 

[tlowry]

John, you have to use hardner in the paint to make it cure. Go to your napa parts store and get some Enamel Hardner the ratio is 8parts paint, 4 parts reducer,and 1 part hardner. The paint will shine better, it will be tougher, and it won't fade as bad, oh and it will dry faster! Terry

 

[sblunier]

John,

Dad and I have shot lots of Iron Guard using acrylic enamel reducers and hardeners. Tack time is about 20 min. with the right reducer and parts can usually be handled with out fear of any damage at about 8-12 hours.

 

[rlathrop]

Thanks for those who helped on my belt query, Using the list on the ihregistry I picked up a Napa heavy Duty belt made by Gates. 4L770W

This was for a 42" deck belt on a 107.

 

[bmcmeen]

Given how much this question comes up, I REALLY wish we had a way to run a poll here.

Here's what I'm thinking (tongue firmly in cheek here folks)...

I'm looking for a belt cross-reference because (choose all that apply):

A) Cub Cadet charges too much (I'm so tight I squeak)
B) My belt broke today and I don't have time to run to a dealer or call a sponsor for another one (I'd rather not support the folks that support us)
C) I don't keep spares around (I also don't have spare fuses in my vehicle's glovebox. But I DO keep enough Bud around to cover a year-long nuclear holocaust)
D) I believe that a fractional horsepower belt can take all the twisting and bending that a Cub Cadet belt can.
E) All the above

If this offends anyone, get over it. The rest of ya? Glad y'all have a sense of humor

Seriously, why all the interest? "Close enough" belts are probably the major cause of all those nice notches in the front of axles. Inquiring minds...

<font size="-2">OK, I'll step away from my third can of Monster now...</font>

Wes -

I broke 3 of them in a year on the 129 that I had. Thankfully the 169 hasn't had the same problem, and I haven't broken any on my K301 in the 100.

 

[digger]

Bryan,
Did you read what that Monster stuff has in it? And your drinkin that crap!!!!!

 

[bmcmeen]

Charlie -

Better living thru chemistry!