Archive through November 15, 2009

[dross]

Luther, What speed up pulley? I have one on a 44 inch deck but no numbers to report. The regular pulley I have under a QL is 4 1/2 and 5" the speed up under my other one is 4 1/2 and 4 1/4. It doesnt have any numbers on it. What deck is this on, and do you have the part number for that pulley.

 

[mnankin]

How do you wire up an amp meter for a cub cadet 100. I have one installed but it is not wired. Thanks.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Martin, can you read this? If not I could email the full size version.

 

[shollis]

I promise I looked in the Kohler manual and the CC service manual first but I don't know which direction the head studs go into the block long threads or short threads. I took them out of the block 18 months ago and don't remember which way they were. This project is moving very slowly

 

[dtanner]

Strait Hollis if your asking about the lenght of the studs , just use a piece of stiff wire to measeure the depth and then use the right length bolt. my .02 lol later Don T

 

[shollis]

Looks like I got back before anyone answered. I got it figured out with a screw drive blade stuck in the holes. The short thread. Boy am I sorry I posted before thinking it through. I look like a dunce.

 

[shollis]

Don T.
when I started typing my 2nd post your response wasn't there Thanks

 

[fsnerd]

thanks for the ohm meter advice. guess i will buy a another one for lower Ohm's.

thanks for the muffler patch suggestion, i will try that next.

 

[aschumacher]

Frank S. Dont go blowing a lot of $$ on a meter. The low cost ones, $5-$30 seem to work as well as my $300 industrial Beekman meter. And if you drop it/drive over it, no major loss. Just get a display big enough to read easily.

 

[mneil]

Hi, I have just acquired an IH 42" snowblower (without a manual, sadly), which I've just attached to my 149 Hydro. I had to adjust the blower from narrow to wide frame, and my question is whether or not the plates that attach the 2 frame pieces together (the ones with the lock nuts and the sleeves behind them) - - they have some up and down adjustment) should be tight, or be allowed to move up and down. Reason for asking, when I lift the blower hydraulically, it tilts a bit lower on the left side than the right - - I think because I don't have these plates tight.

Thanks for any information!

 

[dross]

Mark, Get your belt tight then tighten those bolts down. Welcome to the forum.

 

[mneil]

Thanks, Dave. This forum is a terrific resource.

So, use the "butterfly" nut to get the belt tight, level out the snowblower, and then tighten those 4 bolts down? I couldn't tell if they were supposed to move up and down, since they have those sleeves between the plates - - I thought they might be there so they could give, and keep the blower level on uneven ground when it's lowered? But given your post, I guess not....

 

[stanner]

Mark N...

http://www.ccmanuals.info/pdf/QA36a42aoperators.pdf

Welcome!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Mark, Under edit to clarify: the 4 nuts/bolts are tight onto the sleeves between the plates, this allows the plate that the gear box is mounted onto to move up and down with the belt tensioner. Should be no need to mess with them once everything is set.

 

[mneil]

Beautiful! Thanks for the info (and the manual - - wow, that makes everything clear!).

 

[elamott]

I am in the process of dismantling my 129. I removed the oil pan and saw a lot of little pieces. I am trying to remove the mechanical clutch but I am having a problem. I removed the set screws (3) and the friction disc springs. I would think that you should be able to pry it off. It does not move and there is no way to pull it off. Any suggestions?
Thanks for any comments
Earl LaMott
Here are my pieces

<a href="http://s720.photobucket.com/albums/ww204/elamott2/Cub%20Cadet/?action=view&current=Oilpanremoved.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww204/elamott2/Cub%20Cadet/Oilpanremoved.jpg" border="0" alt="Bottom view of K 301"></a>

 

[jspicer]

Earl,
If you are talking about the PTO clutch on the front, there are SIX set screws, two in each hole. Need to take em all out, or she won't budge. Those still can be a pain in the rear to get off.

 

[dfrisk]

EARL - When putting the PTO back together and onto the pilot bearing on the engine's crankshaft, put ANTI-SIEZE on everything. It's messy I know but those PTO's come off and apart so much easier that way. And as long as everything is assembled & tightened properly they won;t come apart.

 

[kide]

Allen:
Referencing ohmmeters for use on diagnosing Cub electrical problems..... I'm sure that you'll agree that a decent low range is still important, regardless of cost... I just checked 5 of my DVOMs, including two B&Ks, a high end Micronta and then two inexpensive "Harbor Fright" jobs - all read fairly close at higher resistances, but when I got down to my calibration resistors, the low cost one with a 200 Ohm range read pretty close, while the other inexpensive model (a snap around amp probe that has a minimum range of 10,000 Ohms ) read "0" on anything under 1000 Ohms, which makes it useless for checking bad grounds, or more important the low winding on a coil (4-8 ohms). What was amazing was that the yellow 4 dollar on sale job with the 200 Ohm range was only .6 of an ohm off on the 6 Ohm resistor, and that was because you can't zero out the meter leads, so it was pretty close to spot on there... Moral of the story - you can buy a cheap DVOM for the toolbox, but still make sure it's got a low range setting for checking resistance, the lower the better..

 

[jharvey]

Frank
Go for the better meter, it will be handy to have around. But remember the coil could check ok cold and still fail on a hot engine. Substitute a known good coil from another Cub if possible.