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Archive through May 28, 2005

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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rbedell

Well-known member
Joined
May 7, 2003
Messages
1,073
Location
Michigan
displayname
Roland Bedell
DENNIS FRISK - Thanks for the more expanded explanation of the Red Oxide Primer. I had heard a brief version of this process about a year ago. It is always kind of interesting to know the reasoning why an OEM did something.
 
Chuck "F",
Hasn't you wife ever heard of the saying "You gotta' make hay while the sun is shining"? Save the inside work for winter and rainy days.
 
Do those GATOR blades last as long or longer than the stock blades. I've been tempted to purchase them but don't know much about them. Then I can have a FANTASTIC cut! LOL
bouncy.gif
 
In my experience the Gator blades stay sharp longer, therefore you do not need to sharpen them as often. This in turn will make them last longer. I have had the same set of Gator blades on my 50" deck for 3 years and suspect they will last at least one or two more years. The last couple years I have went the whole season without sharpening them, but we have had a dry 2 summers also.
 
I added a sleeve hitch to the back of my 125 cub. I didn't want to use the stock lift as I wanted to keep my deck installed. So I constructed this arrangment. The only thing I have still to install is a helper spring. I didn't drill or modify the tractor frame at all, I used preexisting holes. (So one could undo what I did.) I stood on the back and nothing bent.

28386.jpg
 
Here is the side detail. I used an older cub lift from ebay.
28389.jpg
 
was wondering if any of the engine gurus can help me out. i acquired a cub with a Magnum 18 hp. it has sat for 2 yrs and after freeing up the frozen starter drive and a new battery it cranks fine but has no spark. it appears i will have to pull the engine to get to the ignition module. is there anything else i should be looking at to remedy this before going the drastic step?
thanks

john
 
Tom, if I say that phrase again I think she'll punch me in the face. I don't know about your wife, but the inside comes before the outside, since she never goes outside anyway... I just wonder why she cares about the kitchen, cuz she doesn't spend much time in there either... LOL.

But seriously, the house needs a million things, it wasn't kept up very well, so the kitchen floor is nasty, I guess I can take a brake from yard work to put in a floor, how bad can it be?

Chuck
 
Chuck-
Just go with a Loose lay vinyl floor. Just cut it to the size of your room plop it down and you are back in your yard in an hour. At Menards, our loose lays start out at .88 a sq. ft. So, if you have a 12 x 12 kitchen you are looking at about $125. If you go with a loose lay- DON'T glue it. Go to Menards get the floor, put it down, then go out to your yard. Tyler

(Message edited by tturner on May 28, 2005)
 
Geez Tyler, you sound like the Menard's guy!
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Chuk "F",
Women, can't like with them, can't live with them!
 
Chris I hate to break this to you but the stock lift will work with the deck installed
 
John you could make sure you have good connections and verify the ign. switch is good. if you do wind up pulling it out you may want to look at the crank seals. if they apear to be leaking a little just replace them so you don't have to take it out again.
 
"Chris I hate to break this to you but the stock lift will work with the deck installed"

True, but the deck would have to lift with the rear. Or I'd just have to have the deck float.
 
John,

With a Mag 18 the easiest way is to unhook all of the wires to the engine, then crank it and check for spark. It is a magneto ignition, ground to kill, so with no wires hooked up then there will be no "tractor" induced faults. If it starts and runs with nothing hooked up, kill it with the choke or by shutting off the fuel, then go looking for bad tractor wiring.

More than likely the module is shot and you will need to pull the motor
sad.gif
......don't feel like the lone ranger though, I just had to do the same thing......

Might consider a fuel pump replacement while you have it tore down, they tend to go bad and fill the crankcase with raw gas.....bad for bearings.
 
Hey, on my 782 (still has series I) my carb will not stay adjusted. It is making me very irrate at the thing. I have had to readjust it the last four times that I have used it. I have streched the spring, but that hasn't helped. Any ideas, thanks Tyler.
 
Hugh and Richard,

I want to thank both of you for your suggestions and pictures. It appears one of the valves is bad on my tranny. I switched them, and now the tractor moves forward and not backward. To think I almost spent $400 on a new rebuild.

By the way, anyone know what one of those valves costs? Thanks.
 

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