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Archive through May 28, 2005

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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The deck lift arms operated by hydro on my 1450 do not stay in line when lowering deck and using the cam stop
The arm nearest the hydo piston continues to drop thus making the deck uneven
If I adjust for this with the clevis pins I cannot use the cam stop
It seems that one of the pins that hold the lift arms is slack on the lift shaft
How difficult is it to remove shaft and repair
 
Need some help on adjusting the governor on a 125. I can't set the throttle any higher than about 1/2 or it will over-rev. I have tried adjusting everything I can think of and have set it up to match the settings on another 125 but it still won't work right. Anything else can I try before I reset the governor arm and start all over?
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Tearing down my M18, ran a compression check & it only tested 60psi, so decided to go for a complete rebuild. Cylinders & valves all look good. Trying to get the stator off, seems like it's welded on. I twisted off 3 of the screws holding it and broke one of the magnets. I am now soaking it in wd40. Anyone have any ideas before I completely trash the stator? Can I get a replacement magnet?
 
Norm B,
Yea, I have an idea. Use PB Blaster or Kroil rather than WD40, are ya tryin to get the water out or loosen things up?
 
Thanks for the info, Digger, I'll try that. Just trying to loosen it up. The engine was probably outside a lot.
Do you know if I can replace the magnets?
 
Charlie
Where can I get those washers for the throttle shaft? Are they rubber, and what do I ask for?
 
Chris B. -

I'd like to see that tractor at Plow Day with the deck installed - talk about trash buildup!
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HEY BRYAN,
I think you need this. It's even in your back yard! ebay #7518561317
 
Tom H. -

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With that paint job I'd never be able to find it again...

And you need to scope out the yellow/white SGT (at least I think it's a super) on the east side of Roberts just south of Darrell...
 
Holy
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Charlie, I thought we've sen the last of that one! You must have a soft spot in your heart for Ol' Tinkerbell.
 
Tom - Maybe Charlie has Ol' Tinkerbell hiding in his stash of Cubs and he is afraid to come clean about it.
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Hugh,
I got your tinkerbell right HERE buddy!
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Tom H,
And I spose you forgot about the new and improved Tinker too, dint ya!
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Hi guys, went to the local cub cadet dealer and picked up a quart of paint. The can has no directions for thinning or use of an activator. Matter of fact it does not even tell me if it is enamel or not. Any suggestions what I should use for thinning and hardening? The dealer has no idea what this paint is either. Can just says cub cadet original equipment color. Thanks for any help.
 
Jack,

I have used the MTD paint. I have had good luck with Acrylic Enamel hardener and reducer

8:1:1 is the ratio I used and it worked well. Mind you it is a lot shiner than a "factory" paint job though.
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A major thank you to Tom H and to Skip at Houtz's. Skip was in today
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and had the belt I needed to put the 38C deck Tom H so kindly sold me.

Classic example of what I think Bryan M. said a while ago. <blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

Spin a 2X4 fast enough and it will cut grass too.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
Well the blades are safe for my 2 year old to play with, and still a great cut job.
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Jack C,
Head down to Napa or some place that sells automotive paint and get ya some Medium reducer and a small can of hardner. And if your unsure about how well your prep work is, grab some fish eye remover too.
Then mix it according to what Tedd posted and go for broke.
Remember one thing though!!!!
Preparation is the key to a good paint job. Use a good primer and take your time and you should do fine. If your taking everything down to bare metal, I'd go with an ecthing primer and if not, go with an epoxy primer, follow that with a sealer that will seal any old paint left on the tractor and not lift the old paint off.
 
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