Archive through April 30, 2009

[tsamons]

Hello everyone, sure was scared tuesday afternoon. I decided to go an a little joy ride that afternoon on the 1250 to check the lower fence and watergate in the creek, got about as far from the house as I could get and that thing started smoking as bad as any machine I ever saw. Couldnt walk home so I had to ride it, just knowing each inch closer was another scrape in a cylinder wall. Got it home and it had sucked over half the oil out through the combustion chamber. Soon after I got home a friend came over, I showed it to him after refilling with oil. He suggested we put some Sea Foam in it and run it. We did and after about 20 minutes it quit smoking,( had been smoking very moderately

for some time) and seems noticeably stronger. Anyone had this to happen or have any ideas as to why it started while running fine(about 2/3s throttle) and in no strain?????????

 

[rpalmer]

Scott Stanton, Looking REAL GOOD. I was looking at my pictures and decided to send this. Mower deck on 129 with 10.50s. Too close!

 

[mgonitzke]

Well, I put the repaired cylinder back on. I'll leave the bent one alone for now...I've located 4 used Kwik-Way loader cylinders thanks to another forum member. This thing smoked like crazy when I got it, and I was afraid I was going to have to rebuild the engine. I discovered that the dipstick wasn't correct, and that the engine had about 2 quarts of oil in it. I changed the oil, and the smoke went away. It actually runs pretty nice.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Scott, looking good! Before you bolt those foot rests on, head to an ACE hardware and get a can of black Epoxy Appliance Paint and repaint the foot rests. I used it on the steering wheel on my Original and on the foot rests for my 125. Click HERE for photos of the results on the foot rests. It looks a bit glossier in the photo then it actually is. It's not quite satin but not quite glossy somewhere in between and being an epoxy paint it should hold up better than regular spray paint. For the slotted truss head screws check McMaster-Carr I believe they carry them. I think I might even have a bag of 100 of them in stainless steel...

 

[bhowe]

I have a model 100 that I use to puss snow with. THis year it started to jump out of first gear under load now it sometimes jumps out of first but it must be held in reverse with out being under load is this an adjustment problem or something more serious please help with your suggestions

 

[sstanton]

Kraig, thanks for the info on the paint! I had thought of McMaster's but wasnt sure what the right name for the screws were! I know I could spend a good hour or more on that site! I love it and go there often! I liked the pics from the archive looks kinda like where I'm at with the 104. I thought mine looked like a cub parts wind-chime. These little parts are no fun to paint that is for sure!

 

[gpapa]

Before and after pics.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Robert, did you find the response to your post from yesterday? I take it that wasn't the solution. The "popping out of gear" is usually caused by worn gears, weak springs on the poppet balls (I think that's what they are called) on the shift rods or the shift forks could be worn or spreading which would cause the transmission to not go fully into gear. If you follow the link that I posted yesterday in the Sandbox forum under the "Blazer issue" there are photos of the transmission innerds and a cutaway view of the transmission.

 

[rpalmer]

greg papa, That's good enough to be called reborn. I was thinking of starting to learn how to paint (well) by starting with the blade. But I had never figured out if the springs needed something special done to them so that I got full coverage that did not crack or flake when used. What did you do?

 

[mgerecke]

Kraig
If you have any extra stainless screws to hold down my footrests on my 149 let me know. I could really use them in my restoration. I have had no success getting them from one of the sponsors above.
Mark

 

[sshaff]

Hi Cub fans,

Today I replaced the voltage regulator in my 100. All wires are connected to the correct terminals on the regulator as labeled, but the starter cranks the engine after the ignition is turned off. Not sure what to do next... any advice would be appreciated!

 

[mmorrison]

Good day, I am having trouble with my 125. I picked up the rebuilt starter to day but it won't start. The starter will spin 2 or 3 times then stop and the wires get hot. If I pull the plug it spins just fine
maybe the bat? I am reading 12.7 volts.

 

[tkeefe]

Working on the cubs last night and noticed when I turn on the key and do not crank the engine on my 100 the coil will get too hot to hang on to in a short time, anyone ever experience this before. Tractor starts and runs fine.

 

[digger]

Steve S.
You have to remember that the G terminal on the bottom of the new replacement regulators goes to the Generator and not the ground.

 

[mgonitzke]

Tim K.-

That's normal, and that's also why you'll destroy the coil if you leave the ignition on when the tractor isn't running

 

[tkeefe]

Gee Whiz Matt, you saved me again!

 

[sshaff]

Charlie,

The G (blue wire) is connected to the generator as it should be. Someone on the IH Registry suggested a relay in the voltage regulator might be stuck. What are your thoughts on this? How would this be fixed?

 

[tkeefe]

Does the new regulator on Steve's cub need to be flashed?

 

[kide]

Must get tiresome walking back and forth across the street....

 

[sshaff]

I polarized the generator as indicated in the directions for the voltage regulator. In fact I did this twice -- which didn't help.