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Archive through May 28, 2005

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Terry, Charlie,

Personal experience (after a tip from others) has shown me that the best spring for any PTO using the fiber or brass button is the narrow frame rebuild spring (bent ears on spring ends).....this is especially true of the tractors with Dan's brass button. The brass button drags more on the steel button that captures the clutch fingers, as it pulls into the clutch it can side load the spring and push it out far enough to spit out a finger.

I use the bent ear style on all narrow frames and the early wide frames (without the brake) and the double flat style on the late wide frames with the brake.

Just a PSA, as I have known of at least 3 tractors where the later spring system did not jive with the brass button.....
 
Robin, good to see you posting! I think your plow (plough) is from your side of the pond. I've never seen one like that over here. Very interesting with the reversible share. Any chance you could post a photo showing a detail of the front hitch area of your plow? You might get some feed back on mounting ideas.
 
Robin, Your plough looks like it was made for some kind of 2 wheeled walk behind Garden tractor. I bet it could be used for digging potatoes. Maybe someone in Ireland would know what it was made for!

I'd sure like to try working with it! Great find!
 
Robin, looks like it's for behind a Honda tiller. Click on the link then scroll down to the "Professional Tiller Attachments" section.

Honda
 
Robin,

Looks very cool, I'd make up a sleeve hitch adapter for it and go out and play!!!

(Should work very well in heavy clay or gumbo soils too!!!)
 
Craig, You're right! That is it exactly.
28455.jpg
 
PSA
Kraig is getting closer everyday to having the PD9 Picture CD and Video CD done.
In the mean time, here's a little taste of the video action.
CLICK HERE
Cool Night Plowing pics will be included too.
28457.jpg

28458.jpg

Just in case you want some past Plow Day videos and pics CLICK HERE
 
Thanks Kraig! and all you others

What a speedy response. I knew I could rely on you guys for an answer, I just didn't recognise the marks.
Mine was certainly a bargain only 51 GBP instead of 360.
Here is the front end, no coupling at all but not too difficult to make something up

28462.jpg


28463.jpg


I have been looking around over here for a sleeve hitch but they are as rare as hens teeth or even rocking horse poo, I did see a brinley plow for a wheel horse go on epay uk but that was 3 times the price and no hitch.
Think I will end up making the whole thing as its not worth shipping a complete hitch assembly across that lump of water.
 
Thanks to all that replied to my questions about the single armed loader. My next question concerns powering the loader. I will be putting the loader on my 149. I've already added a two spool control valve to the hydraulics and am considering using the existing controls with the loader. With 2 1/2" cylinders, I'll have enough force to lift a 250 pounds load (assuming that I've got 300 psi) but I don't know if I'll have enough flow to make the loader usable. Do any of you know what the gpm flow rate is supposed to be on the hydraulic system?
 
Kraig, no they seem to be non existant here, I think the older Cub Cadets were only used as lawnmowers despite all those sheets advertising the other equipment. Thats what I am planning on making. Got some spare bits of steel so I'm going to see what I can do. Might be a bit different to factory but we'll see.

Robin.
 
Robin, OK, if you need photos and exploded view drawings of the rear lift let me know and I'll get you what I can.
 
Terry, Charlie,

Ditto Steve's remarks on the PTO spring. I couldn't keep the 759-3489 WF spring in place on my 149. It would work for a few minutes and then a finger would slip over the PTO lip. After taking the PTO on and off a few times this became very frustrating and time consuming. I then trimmed the ends of the spring tips so they fit against the side of the PTO lip. Nope, they popped up and over. So I got the 759-3490 NF kit with the bent spring tips. The tips fit right against the PTO lip and don't move. It's been two years and no problem.
 
Hey Digger, I stoped by your place ( I think ) last friday and you were not home.
went to Travis's to pick up a 12hp.
Stoped around 2pm on the way down and also on the way back through.
 
Lonny,
Nope we were not home, we had to go way up north for a funeral last week.
I dint see nothin missing so you must not need anything these days, LOL
 
Hi Guys, I drove by this place South of LaPorte City today and stopped to take some photos. Always admired this place when I've seen it in the past.
28471.jpg

Here's a couple links to the Higher Res photos my shop ideas gallery.
Nice IH place
IH on Rock
 
Mike,the last email I got from you was on 5/6. I already sold parts off the tractor because I never heard back from you, but if you'd like to discuss what's left using "the correct way", please just email me.
 
Jeffrey,
You will need more than 300psi. 300psi on a 2.5" cylinder gives you roughly 1500lbs of force.
A 10" boom cylinder will lift the boom, at the point where the cylinder attaches to the boom, about 27 inches. Another way to look at is you have 1500lbs of force for 90 degrees of movement. A 10 inch cylinder moving the load 27 inches give you a 27 to 10 ratio or 555 lbs of force. That 90 degrees of movement at the cylinder end is 27 inches and at the bucket is roughly twice that or 56 inches assuming that the cylinder is attached half way down the boom. So this gives you a final lift of about 275 lbs. More than likely the bucket and boom weight will be around 150lbs or more. This gives you a lift of about 75lbs not accounting for friction.

To summarize, I recommend designing a system to around 2000 psi.
 
Hey Charlie,
Check this one out, Ebay 4385945054. Looks like "Tinker Bell's" lil' brother. The bell hasn't grown out yet.
 
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