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Archive through June 07, 2009
- Thread starter rbedell
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Richard P.-
Later Quietlines and newer all had 1" spindles, starting at serial number 632502, or August 1978.
Later Quietlines and newer all had 1" spindles, starting at serial number 632502, or August 1978.
stanner
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 2, 2002
- Messages
- 1,349
- displayname
- Scott Tanner... Can't even see the Cub in this mess..
Matt,
unfortunately, no, He wasn't giving that up, as it was a PITA to remove... it did get the lower 3pt mount, just not the adapter that attached to the lift handle... Charlie can help me out, it think... (ccspecialties)
unfortunately, no, He wasn't giving that up, as it was a PITA to remove... it did get the lower 3pt mount, just not the adapter that attached to the lift handle... Charlie can help me out, it think... (ccspecialties)
Someone told me to convince her that you need one for each implement. That is workin real good so far . Just got a 149anda147, snow blade, a shedder grinder, wheel weights ,amow deck, and a snow blower both 14s have blown rods. But for 500.00 I can afford to fix. Does anyone know about the grinder shredder? I never imagined Id ever find one. Found all this at a lawn mower repair yard on the way to my son's lawnmower flat track races. Good day he won the main event and we found all these
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2006
- Messages
- 2,912
- displayname
- Allen Schumacher
Wayne, I have a Troy Built shredder chipper with only a 5 1/2hp on it and it is a nasty thing to whater goes in it...You gotta tell me what your shredder finally does with 14 hp on it!...
bashepherd
Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2009
- Messages
- 15
- displayname
- Brian Shepherd
How do you clean the inside of the starter on a 109??? thanks
I just bought a very beat up 1200 Cub Cadet. I am still trying to figure out which model Koehler it has in it. I got some numbers off the left side of the frame: 2050580U606418 and 91 0075. What do these numbers mean? I couldn't find any numbers on the engine. Thanks, Ken
Brian S.
Take it apart.
Take it apart.
Ken W:
205= IH Kind designator for a Cub Cadet Garden Tractor
0580= factory Code for Model 1200
U= manufacured in the US
606418 = one-up serial number: mfd about mid March, 1977.
I'll need some context with that 91 0075 number. Where did it come from.
Myron B
CCSupplyRoom
205= IH Kind designator for a Cub Cadet Garden Tractor
0580= factory Code for Model 1200
U= manufacured in the US
606418 = one-up serial number: mfd about mid March, 1977.
I'll need some context with that 91 0075 number. Where did it come from.
Myron B
CCSupplyRoom
Brian Shepard, Cleaning the starter...
1) Remove two long screws which hold the two ends of the starter together.
2) Pull the rear end of the starter off. The end is pushed on to the stator shaft with a bearing. The bearing may or may not come off with the end. No big deal either way.
3) The brushes will pop out of their race way. No biggie here either.
4) I use steel wool. Others use a fine emmery cloth. Use one of these and brush clean the commutator till nice and bright. Do the same to the brushes where they contact the commutator.
5) At this point, I even get down into the starter housing and clean that out real nice too.
6) Clean the starter, commutator, stator, brushes and everything else really good. I start with a vacuum and end with a chemical cleaner like acetone or something. You have to make absolutely sure you get rid of all the microscopic metal particles. They may short your stator out.
7) I put a small amount of oil on the commutator to decrease friction and aid the electrical connection.
8) Put it all back together. It will be tricky getting the brushes to stay in their race while pushing the stator down into the housing.
9) See also http://cubfaq.com/sg2.jpg
10) Enjoy many more hours of fast cranking and efficient charging.
1) Remove two long screws which hold the two ends of the starter together.
2) Pull the rear end of the starter off. The end is pushed on to the stator shaft with a bearing. The bearing may or may not come off with the end. No big deal either way.
3) The brushes will pop out of their race way. No biggie here either.
4) I use steel wool. Others use a fine emmery cloth. Use one of these and brush clean the commutator till nice and bright. Do the same to the brushes where they contact the commutator.
5) At this point, I even get down into the starter housing and clean that out real nice too.
6) Clean the starter, commutator, stator, brushes and everything else really good. I start with a vacuum and end with a chemical cleaner like acetone or something. You have to make absolutely sure you get rid of all the microscopic metal particles. They may short your stator out.
7) I put a small amount of oil on the commutator to decrease friction and aid the electrical connection.
8) Put it all back together. It will be tricky getting the brushes to stay in their race while pushing the stator down into the housing.
9) See also http://cubfaq.com/sg2.jpg
10) Enjoy many more hours of fast cranking and efficient charging.
kide
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2006
- Messages
- 3,779
- displayname
- Gerry Ide
Brian:
You put oil on the commutator? Not a good idea... The brushes are carbon and will slide just fine - putting oil on it will gum stuff up and burn the commutator up...And no steel wool either - one strand left behind and it'll short across commutator segments and leave burn tracks.
You put oil on the commutator? Not a good idea... The brushes are carbon and will slide just fine - putting oil on it will gum stuff up and burn the commutator up...And no steel wool either - one strand left behind and it'll short across commutator segments and leave burn tracks.
Allen, I am reall excited about my shredder. Model m59. I need to have it put on the 149 by fathers day to be in the parade at Spirit Lake Id. The Whole town brings out every lawn mower for a big parade and they have drag races. I will have all my Cadets there and hoping to demo the shredder. I know what ya mean 14hp spinning the little thing will be scary but like all the yelolow and white stuff Ive had ,It wont break very easy.
Brian Johnson,
You can easily install/reinstall the S/G brushes. Look at the brush holder. You will see a small hole in each one. Place a small screw driver in the hole to hold the brush in place. I use a screw driver the size you would see in a shirt pocket. It's a piece of cake. Have fun Cubbing.
You can easily install/reinstall the S/G brushes. Look at the brush holder. You will see a small hole in each one. Place a small screw driver in the hole to hold the brush in place. I use a screw driver the size you would see in a shirt pocket. It's a piece of cake. Have fun Cubbing.
stanner
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 2, 2002
- Messages
- 1,349
- displayname
- Scott Tanner... Can't even see the Cub in this mess..
128. K 301 A Kohler.
had a problem with the tractor stalling at full throttle as soon as you went to full throttle, and stalling at half throttle every few minutes.
adjusted carb, fixed stalling at half throttle, but the next day i found gas running out of the carb, through the air cleaner and all over the floor.
is it worth it to try to find the problem, im assuming a float is stuck, or should i just rebuild/replace carb?
do you think the stalling is related to the leak? maybe float sticks close, too?
i just bought this tractor, it has been poorly maintained, im thinking i might just be better off with a carb rebuild/replace.
had a problem with the tractor stalling at full throttle as soon as you went to full throttle, and stalling at half throttle every few minutes.
adjusted carb, fixed stalling at half throttle, but the next day i found gas running out of the carb, through the air cleaner and all over the floor.
is it worth it to try to find the problem, im assuming a float is stuck, or should i just rebuild/replace carb?
do you think the stalling is related to the leak? maybe float sticks close, too?
i just bought this tractor, it has been poorly maintained, im thinking i might just be better off with a carb rebuild/replace.
fcurrier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2004
- Messages
- 3,155
- displayname
- Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
I've found it to be quite handy to have a spare carburetor, since they're so interchangeable. This is a Greg Edwards' rebuild that's been waiting for about a year to see action:
The rust, here, has me considering putting sediment bowls on all the tractors.
Although a bit of an aggravation to take the carb off, it's easier than replacing the needle valve when you take the float bowl and float off, especially when the needle valve ends up somewhere between the engine and the frame!
The rust, here, has me considering putting sediment bowls on all the tractors.
Although a bit of an aggravation to take the carb off, it's easier than replacing the needle valve when you take the float bowl and float off, especially when the needle valve ends up somewhere between the engine and the frame!
