Morning all, I have a question on how does the fuel like seal to the sediment bowl and the carb (102 10hp) when I disassembled it there was small rubber pieces that looked like small pieces of hose was cut to fit over the steel line. I thought that there was supposed to be compression fitting but after checking out the fittings I didn't think they would work.
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Archive through June 07, 2009
- Thread starter rbedell
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kide
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Richard P:
It's been so long since I'd had a S/G apart, I'd forgotten the brush holder thing..(but I'm bettin' that I'll have to do it soon now - the 149's pulley end of the S/G is looooose - hope I still got some Delco bearings around..)
It's been so long since I'd had a S/G apart, I'd forgotten the brush holder thing..(but I'm bettin' that I'll have to do it soon now - the 149's pulley end of the S/G is looooose - hope I still got some Delco bearings around..)
Kendell, just a drop of clear oil. Thought it would help but maybe not. We'll see how long it lasts next time and will fix. And for the steel wool, people advised against it, but I find it easier to work with than the emery cloth/paper. I am just sure to clean it very good after. I don't know- live and learn but at the time it all made sense to me and she's still running fine. Thanks for the tips.
Just a small detail I need to work out, the packing material on the fuel petcocks is worn out (the adjusting nut is bottomed out) on my 129, and when I put the 102 back together, I'd like to replace that as well. The parts lookup only shows the whole valve. Anyone know where I can get the material, or will I have to get the whole assembly?
I got some 3/16 compression fittings but they didn't tighten down and seal, so I borrowed just two little pieces of hose off of my evap system from my buick, so far so good and the line should be fuel resistant...I guess I will see. I am almost done getting the 102 back together, as soon as the tires arive I will post some pics, again lots of great info and great people here.
KENDELL - I always heard the same thing on generator comm's, NO OIL, don't even touch them with bare fingers. And real "Sand-paper" like garnet paper, not aluminum oxide, or anything metal based. And some sort of small file is required to remove the MICA from between the segments of the comm.
Back when SON was racing elec. R/C cars really hot & heavy the little DC motors required re-machining the comm's every battery pack or so. We had a special (read expensive) little lathe with a diamond tipped cutter to true up the comm's, We'd use Brake-Kleen as a cutting fluid, best brush material was a high silver content graphite. They were "Best" not because the comm's ran longer but because they carried MUCH more current until the comm wore down and went out-of-round. The high silver brushes wore the comm's at three to four times the rate of the next best brushes. Depending on how bad the comm was abused You could cut the comm 15 to 20 times before the armature was junk.
Unfortunately the armature from a CC starter-generator would not fit in that little lathe. But I did put new brushes in the S/G for the 129 one day while at the R/C track.
Son bought a new off-road 1/10th scale elec truck a couple months ago to race, He used the latest motor, speed control, & battery technology. 15 yrs ago when We raced 1/12th scale pan car with modified motors on 4-sub-C cells the heats were 8 minutes long, You raced for 3-4 minutes and conserved power the rest of the race using 2200 mAmp batteries. Most other classes used the same motors & batteries but 6-cell packs and races lasted 4 or 5 minutes. Today they have 3400 mAmp metal Hydride packs, brushless motors, higher frequency solid-state speed controls and the run times for these vehicles is in the ten to twelve minute range, even longer than the gas-powered cars!
MARLIN - You're correct on the Gold Demo's. General opinion on the RPM forum is the correct shade of gold is a Cadillac gold metallic from the late 60's, early 70's. A Gold DEMO 1456 looks good even today!
Back when SON was racing elec. R/C cars really hot & heavy the little DC motors required re-machining the comm's every battery pack or so. We had a special (read expensive) little lathe with a diamond tipped cutter to true up the comm's, We'd use Brake-Kleen as a cutting fluid, best brush material was a high silver content graphite. They were "Best" not because the comm's ran longer but because they carried MUCH more current until the comm wore down and went out-of-round. The high silver brushes wore the comm's at three to four times the rate of the next best brushes. Depending on how bad the comm was abused You could cut the comm 15 to 20 times before the armature was junk.
Unfortunately the armature from a CC starter-generator would not fit in that little lathe. But I did put new brushes in the S/G for the 129 one day while at the R/C track.
Son bought a new off-road 1/10th scale elec truck a couple months ago to race, He used the latest motor, speed control, & battery technology. 15 yrs ago when We raced 1/12th scale pan car with modified motors on 4-sub-C cells the heats were 8 minutes long, You raced for 3-4 minutes and conserved power the rest of the race using 2200 mAmp batteries. Most other classes used the same motors & batteries but 6-cell packs and races lasted 4 or 5 minutes. Today they have 3400 mAmp metal Hydride packs, brushless motors, higher frequency solid-state speed controls and the run times for these vehicles is in the ten to twelve minute range, even longer than the gas-powered cars!
MARLIN - You're correct on the Gold Demo's. General opinion on the RPM forum is the correct shade of gold is a Cadillac gold metallic from the late 60's, early 70's. A Gold DEMO 1456 looks good even today!
