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Archive through November 14, 2017

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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I have small little dealer not close. I was hoping I could find one near me.
 
Ed C.
Email me with your address.
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Wayne,

On the 44/50 A/C decks (the stamped deck, like you have. Measure the width of the undercarriage where the lift pin holes are. Then measure the distance between the spring pin brackets.

The 50's are worse but Dad and I had issues with the 50 and 44's falling off because the spring pin brackets "spreading" so when you are not level, or turning, the pin can come out of one side and let the deck drop.
 
Kraig and Harry,

Thank you for the reinforcing advice on the oil. It looks as if the temperatures might get into the forties sometime next week, maybe Thursday. I'll pick up some oil, start the 1250 one more time this fall, take a ride, and run it out of gas. I'll also change the oil.

Marty,

Your comment on non-ethanol gas is an important one. In Minnesota, most gasoline purchased must have at least 7% ethanol. There is 91 octane unleaded gasoline available for watercraft, collector vehicles, etc. I don't use it. I think, based upon the teaching of a friend, that 91 octane is a bit hot for that K-301.

The gasoline that I use is an 87 octane unleaded gasoline without ethanol, which is available at one little hole-in-the-wall gas station in my neighboring town of Fargo, North Dakota. I use it in all my small engines, including my Snowblower, lawn mower, and, of course, the 1250. I'll also use it in the 782 when it is done next summer. The selling station tells me that they sell a lot of that gasoline, and they have many, many customers who have classic cars restored to original condition.

My 1250 runs well on this gas. Since I have had it, I have always used this gasoline, and treated it with an ounce of MMO to a gallon, and an ounce of Stabil to two gallons of gas. The engine has always started and the spark plug burns dry and white.

Thank you for the wisdom.
 
Thanks, Scott. I did measure that and there is about 1" difference. I hoped there was some bracket adjustment on the mower deck, but there is not, and both brackets' bolts are tight.
 
Wayne,

When ours needs adjusted, the adjustment is done with a machinist sledge...........

They get “hammered out” during use over time, so we just hammer them back in.......

I keep an eye on mine through the space between the frame and running boards, and when the gap starts to get bigger, I knock them back in,
 
Well, here's another 1st for me. Couple weeks ago it was mowing with an old Cub Cadet. Today its putting chains on a Cub Cadet. I always bladed snow with ag tires and wheel weights. But going up the hills on my blacktop subdivision streets I encountered tire slippage often. Last year my elderly neighbor on his 'Poulan lawn tractor' passed me going up hill while he too was blading our usual ice/snow mix that we tend to get. He was running chains. Right then I said that will never happen again!! I was always the conscious one who didn't want to mare up the blacktop streets using chains. But since the blacktop streets are going to pot now....who cares?

I don't have to worry about these chains being too loose and moving around. They are snug. I deflated plus broke down the beads before installing. It was a wrestling match! I got rid of the factory connecting links and used what's pictured and have 2-link spacing all the way around. No need for chain tensioners on these. I could still remove the chains but will not. These will be my dedicated tires and wheels with chains. I have a set of other tires and wheels I can install that don't have chains.

Those are 42lb Bolens weights.

And, as I said a couple weeks ago about this same tractor....it all fit together nicely!
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Kirk, nicely done! You'll enjoy the added traction. Hopefully the guy with the Poulan won't one up you and install chains with V bars...
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