My 1512D for dog rebuild

[junderwood]

Don,

The CV shafts have a splined coupler on the hydro. If you are going that route you need a shaft from the later Cubs with the CV drive shaft. Spend a little time with the parts lookup and look at the 1863, 1641, 1864. They have the splined CV drive shaft. I made mine work on my 1872 by getting the correct rear mount (there are a couple different spline counts) and had to drill the snout of the hydro shaft for the retainer bolt. I found out the CV couplers are really hard and I couldn't drill them. I would definitely get a complete hydro from the right tractor if you going to the CV drive shaft.

 

[dtanner]

John Underwood

I do understand what you are saying. The shaft that is in a 1512 looks the same as a 129,149 with just a stub and a hole drilled for a roll pin. I will take a round plate with a round stock welded to the middle and then drill this for the stub shaft for the Pump.It will be held fast with the same roll pin as a 129,149. I will drill 3 holes in the round plate and thread them so the CV drive shaft will bolt right up to my plate. this should give me a stout drive shaft and an end to the PO mods he did. Let me know what you guys think of this set up please. Don T

 

[jdiederichs]

Don & John,

In order to use the cv setup on a round shaft hydro, you must order the adapter for a 5/8" shaft, drilled for a 1/4" bolt. The part number is 748-3039; it was used on the model 1535 tractor, the last of the 3 speed manual transmissions.

 

[jdiederichs]

An easy way to look up CC parts by tractor model (1535 as example) is available on Messick's website. Click on the "parts" category in the header, choose Cub Cadet and simply insert your tractor model, 1872 or whatever. In some cases it differentiates by SN.
A very good site and easy to navigate! Just Google "Messicks" and it'll take you there or use this link: http://www.messicks.com/cubcadetparts.aspx

 

[dtanner]

Jim Diederichs

Thanks for that part number. Now I won`t have to make the part here. Do you think this is the best set up with the CV joints or am I just wasting money lol. Don T

 

[jdiederichs]

Don,

Use the 703-1862 adapter to bolt the cv end to the engine pulley's 3 bolts. It comes from the 1782 model and is a direct fit for the engine side.
Yes, it is more complex to use the c.v. setup but it will be much more trouble-free. When the old style rag joints let go it'll wipe out all the hydraulic lines nearby, they typically fail far from the shop! Please keep us updated with pictures, we enjoy seeing your progress.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Don, I'll second Jim's comment "Please keep us updated with pictures, we enjoy seeing your progress."

BTW, you've got a great resource with Jim D. posting here. In case you don't know, Jim has built many diesel powered Cub Cadet pulling tractors including this Turbo Diesel version.

 

[dtanner]

Jim Diederichs

I have ordered a 1862 CV drive shaft from Richard Patton and it will be shipped this week . For the wrecked input shaft on the pump vincent ochiuto will be sending me a used shaft for the pump. I will use the front plate that the po installed and offset and drill the 4 holes for the drive shaft on the front. The rear plate will be for a 1535 as you suggested .I will adjust the length by cutting the shaft and using a creeper coupling and pin that with coiled roll pins that I have here. I found a rim that I bought from Frank C in Maine so The drive line is soon complete. I have hemi ti rods to install on the steering and some other new parts that I have here to complete the steering. I will need a steering wheel cap to finish that.I`am off to town to buy a tubing bender to install the front and rear hyd lines for the 54" snow plow and the rear ports for the dump trailer mod. I have looked at the paint I have here and will paint the white for sure and add the custom 1512 Diesel sign on the side of the hood. This will be a great tractor when I get through with it and should last me out. I know a snow blower will be bought by next winter for it also. I have plans to paint my O this winter also .

Thanks so much guys you are GREAT... later Don T

 

[dtanner]

Well with limited parts here I`am going to put new ends on all the steering parts. These should make the tractor steer great.

 

[snicklas]

Don,

I am not sure, I may have missed this somewhere else. Could you tell us the story behind this tractor. I have seen the pictures, and it looks like it was partally disassembled. A little background, and what and maybe why it was in pieces. Just curious, as I have had one or to in this condition myself before.

Thanks,
Scott

 

[dtanner]

Scott Nicklas
I have been wanting a Diesel for some time and a few weeks ago I got an email for this 1512 D. THere was no tin on it and the alt was off a car. I was given the alt that belongs on the diesel with the tractor. I will make a good tractor out of this. I just cut off the pump shaft that was welded to extend it. Now if I knew what the length should be I could see if this idea I have will work.

I have a brain wave to put this bracket on the shaft and a round plate so the 1862 CV shaft will bolt on. I`am open to all ideas on this. Later Don T

 

[dtanner]

Jim Diederichs
you have been a great help so far ,thanks a bunch
(Also note that the cradle prevents starter removal, you may want to examine this if possible to make a clearance cut(?) ) If you have some information on the clearance cut please pass it on. I was looking tonight and see because of the snoot on he starter and the bracket that it bolts to. the starter is a bear to remove without jacking up the engine. Just where should i cut and how much do I remove. Looks to me like the bracket under the starter where it bolts on must be notched to allow the starter to be moved back to remove it, I could be lost.
I bought a Ford cyl switch for the glow plugs and will get 3 new in the Am. Thanks for that. I hope the drive shaft does not take weeks to get here. The 2 broken studs will be repaired this weekend as a blacksmith friend is all set to remove and clean up the threads in the manifold .

I`am missing a few pieces like the hood fin and steering wheel cap and have to see if they are on ebay.

Later Don T

 

[dtanner]

Jim Diederichs

If you wish to save $$ and gain performance from the glow plugs, note that the glow plugs from a JD model X-740 or X-495 are exact replacements but cheaper
wow I just called the local John Deere dealer about the glow plugs and gave me a part number as m119371 for the 3 cylinder glow plugs at $43.18 each. Thats a bunch of cash and I was thinking that I should ask you what the price is there for the glow plug. Thanks Don T

 

[jdiederichs]

Don,

On the glow plugs, last ones I got were $24...something (each), not bad. Try asking your Cub Cadet for a price to compare. You may find some deere glow plugs for a 455 diesel garden tractor for less than those I mentioned earlier. Same size and work well too.

As far as checking them, you can bench check them but be careful, overheating will swell the "bulb" portion containing the heating element. Best way is to use a battery with 12 volts or less, higher voltage is hard on them. I use a battery from something that's been sitting awhile, it likely is < than 12V by a bit. The element must actually "Glow" orange quickly, if not pitch it out, any one weak glow plug will make starting a real challenge on that 3 cylinder.

As far as a clearance cut for the starter, I have not attempted to do any myself. I just recall what a pain it was to R&R the starter in the middle of winter in an unheated shop. Thought you may find a solution since everything is out in the open now, maybe save yourself some grief.

 

[agitch]

Is there a kubota dealer near you? i've heard they are much cheaper through them.

 

[dtanner]

guys i`am waiting for Richard P to send me the total for shipping so I can pay him.My kubota parts won`t be in for a few days so I think i`ll check out the glow plugs and see how they work.
Just thinking ( can I run the wires to the glow plugs as done in the modify set up with the stock glow plugs)? or do it after I get the new glow plugs.I don`t want to burn these old glow plugs out before I get the replacements. Well the fenders have some extra holes in them and I might as well try to repair that will I wait for the rest of the parts I ordered, The fan shaft has new bearing and will install that in the am. Thanks guys, with your help I will have a great tractor. Later Don T

 

[dtanner]

Update, Parts are in, belts, filters ect and this parts guy was a huge help with the glow plugs.we had quite a talk, seems old style glow plugs were 8.5 or 9 volt he said and all new style are full 12V and replacements are $19.24 each. So the new glow plugs will be picked up and installed.I think the 1512 will be a great tractor soon. I`am off to town and see how much the new starter will be and see if my budjet will allow me to do that mod now and have it all done. Thanks Guys Don T

 

[dtanner]

Parts are in the mail. My drive shaft and a few other pieces are being shipped today from Richard P. Thanks Richard. Wow this is great.I will post some pictures of the drive shaft installed as soon as it arrives here for those who would think to do this to there 1512. Might do this to my 129 loader also. Later Don T

 

[tmarkle]

Jim D,
Do you know who makes the JD glow plugs and the #? I used the new style Kubota plugs which are made by NGK. These can recieve a full 12 volts and retail for about $8.00 each at NAPA.

 

[agitch]

I definitely think you're doing the right thing by doing these mods now while it's apart. Even if you have to let is sit longer to wait for more funds from "the boss" at least it'll be ready to give you years of hard work and fun. Can't wait to see some more pictures. I've got to get a smoker.