Archive through September 30, 2010

[dfrisk]

RICHARD - Good friend was a heavy truck mechanic. He actually had a LOT of the special drivers for seals & bearings made that were shown in the service manuals for the trucks & components he worked on.

Just the two drawers of his roll-around tool chest that held the frequently used drivers was heavier than ALL my tools combined.
Lots of BIG brass & steel drivers.

The Kohler Classic manual shows drawings for the seal drivers, but if your installing HUNDREDS of seals a day, you need what they show. If you do a pair every year or two, you don't need anything that fancy. My SON worked at a gearbox mfg. plant for 1-1/2 yrs building gearboxes that were BIGGER than a CC and weighed as much as a half-ton pickup. Most seals he installed with a piece of pipe/tubing and a block of wood over the end. On the BIG seals for the 5 to 8 inch diameter shafts he just used the block of wood laid across the face of the seal.

 

[ljones]

Joe, here are some MANUALS for your 128 it will be under 1x8-9

 

[mglenn]

Disassembling my OCC. How do I remove the front axle pivot bolt? Have the front nut off, but bolt will not push out.

 

[digger]

I never thought it would work very well, but the dang thing is really slick!

I punched a 20" x 3 foot white oak log on the point and it split is like nothin!

I'll do a video when it gets light tomorrow or this weekend.

 

[jbaker]

Micheal, after removing the nut you will need to hammer it out most likely using a large punch and hammer, I have never removed one from an original but on my wide frames it was tough the first time and I had to use some force from my BFH.

 

[mglenn]

Jeff Baker - Thanks. I will try tomorrow. I just wanted to make sure it wasn't going to ruin any threads, as I wanted to hammer on it. I've broke lots of things before from not asking questions first.

 

[mgonitzke]

Michael G.-

To add to what Jeff said, use a brass rod, brass hammer, or lead hammer to pound it out, as you'll peen the end over with a steel hammer and make it impossible to remove. You may have to heat the axle casting with a torch. See if you can get the bolt to spin in the casting before you try pounding it out. If you can get it to turn, that means you'll probably be able to get it out without too much trouble.

 

[dtanner]

Charlie "Digger" Proctor

Be real careful with that! I think a lot of guys got hurt using them and they were taken off the market, Not a safe tool to use.

jeff l baker
When I took the pin out of my Original I took all strain off the pin and hit it a few times easy till I got the pin centered so it could be pounded out.I think the pin gets caught up on the grove in the pin and that makes it go off center and get caught.Hope this makes sense.

I think they made a splitter like that for a car axle. I think the problems happen when the point hits a knot and the wood starts rotating and goes flying .

 

[digger]

Don T.
They are still selling that style today by more than one manufacturer.

 

[mpatterson]

I'd be interested in seeing that video Digger. I think they would be handy, not sure how quick you could split a cord, but it would give you a reason to use a Cub!!

 

[T-Mo]

I created calendar for 2011. It's sort of in a draft mode now, so I'm open to any comments or if anyone has any high resolution pictures to submit, please do so at [email protected].

See calendar here:
http://cubcadet.1.forumer.com/index.php?act=ST&f=36&t=312&st=0

 

[bmcmeen]

Charlie -

Why do I always think of this guy when I see that splitter...?

 

[mbounds]

Donald T: I also have one of those and the flying rotation can only happen if you are dumb enough to try to split very short logs sections. Logs sections of sufficient length will simply hit the ground and split...BTDT!!

Not having a fire place, I've never had a reason to split a cord of wood with it but it only tskes a couple of seconds to make a split, so the time to split a cord would depend on how fast you can you can pick up a section and stick it on the end of the "screw".

All powered equipment is dangerous to one degree or another and this splitter, like chain saws, etc., is only as dangerous as the careless ding-weenie operating it.

Myron B

 

[kmcconaughey]

I prefer to use my hydraulic log splitter. If I'm only going to split a few logs I'll use my Log Blaster ™, now that's dangerous...

 

[dfrisk]

CHARLIE & ALL - Would that log splitter work better on a GD or a hydro?

IMHO, a Hydro would probably be safer, but I think a GD would be able to split more wood if it was fairly easy-to-split wood. The hydro would probably stall-out if it hit something really hard to split like a knot. Plus it would slow down during the splitting process. Where a GD would try to keep on chugging away, maybe to the point of running the tractor off the stands.

 

[kmcconaughey]

The safest way is to just pull apart the wood by hand. It takes a little practice but I can pull apart HUGE Oak logs this way.

 

[bwise]

Quick help needed. I am going to pick up a tiller, blade and thrower for a wideframe cub. What do these tillers weigh? I am unsure of the tiller model# it is just part of the package deal my dad bought. If two poeple can lift the tiller than I can just take the truck and leave the trailer at home.

Thanks

 

[kmcconaughey]

Brandon, according to the #1 Tiller manual the shipping weight is 200 lbs for the 32" wide basic model. The 38" wide #2 Tiller is listed as 225 lbs for shipping weight.

 

[rrschmitt]

Terry R.,

Nice Calander. One suggestion: Since next year is the 50th B-day/Anniversary of the introduction of the Cub Cadet Original model that started it all, you should at least have a picture or two of Originals still earning their keep 50 years later.
My $.02.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Ron, Ooooo, good idea! I was going to send Terry a high resolution version of my profile photo of my Original but then decided not too. Now I'm thinking I might want to send that one and perhaps some others...