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Archive through September 30, 2010

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Joe L., Wayne is correct, the wide tires were optional, as were attachments like mower decks. No way to tell what it came with unless you have the original bill of sale. Other optional items are lights, electric lift, the rear lift, wheel weights and cigarette lighter. The 1000 would be the same chassis as an 800 and a 1200 except for the engine and of course, decals. The drive line should be the same for all three. Attachments from a 1x8/9 and any Quiet Line series (800 through the 1650) should fit it. BTW I did get your email I will respond on Monday from my work PC rather than from webmail.
 
William, nice looking SO 76! That black 1050 is sharp! I did see your other photos in the MTD section as well.
happy.gif
 
Kraig, thanks for the comments. The one thing that I became aware of during the parade is that hydros are much better than the gear drives with all the stopping and starting.
 
WILLIAM - I've driven both a hydro & gear drive in parades. The hydro was an orange tractor similar to one Kraig posts pic's of somethimes. The GD was a green 125 HP full size farm tractor, and I actually preferred it over a hydro GT.

My Buddys & I actually had a great time blasting around town with it before & after the parade. Fact it could run up to 20+ MPH and slow to almost a crawl was nice, the Synchro-Range transmission was easier to shift than the non-synchro 3-spd in a GD CC and much smoother than a Power-Shift would have been.

Guess it's all what your used too, I'd put about 100 hours on the same make/model of farm tractor that spring, summer, & fall and probably 500 more hours on similar models of the same make as well in the same time period.
 
I just want to say thank you for all the information everyone is giving me. The more I know the less trouble I will get into on refurbishing my Cubs. Thank you and keep the information comming please. I can use all the help I can get!
Joe
 
Problem installing front mechanical PTO. Just installed an NOS front mechanical PTO on my 71. When I pull the PTO lever back to disengage it, it won't disengage, even with the turnbuckle adjusted as short as possible. It sure threw some pretty sparks!! It looks to me like there is too much distance between the button and the PTO clutch, so the button can't pull back far enough to fully disengage the clutch, and isn't hitting the clutch when it has the best leverage. Unfortunately, I didn't take a photo of the front clutch/button distance before I tore it apart. I used a manual for the install. Anyone have any ideas? All help appreciated.
 
Scott, more people will talk up later but, did/do you have a button on the front release lever and one in the center of the clutch? Are they centered? Sparks means maybe front release lever hitting the pressure springs on the clutch. JMHO
 
Scott, like Allen said make sure the wear/friction buttons are good and the geometry of where they kiss each other is correct. I've used washers on the engagement shaft/lever to keep it aligned. Sparks mean metal on metal. Speaking of metal on metal I spent some quality time on the carburetor with a dremel,,,, still not done but here is a mock-up of it against the black engine.......and a few other goodies.

213998.jpg


As per a question from Dennis Frisk about how I'm going to shine up the aluminum head....... I haven't a clue. Anyone out there have some ideas?
 
RICHARD - You did a GREAT job polishing the carb with the Dremel. There's only about ten times the surface area on the head that there was on the carb.

Short of cosmetic chrome plating I'm not sure what would be quick & easy on the head. You'd just want the top side plated I would think. Plating & any type of threads like the plug threads don't mix.
 

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