jchamberlin
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2010
- Messages
- 1,842
- Location
- Farmville, North Carolina
- displayname
- Jeremiah Chamberlin
More Teardown Pics:
Pic 24 A shot of Rod #2 on the crank.
Pic 25 Close-up of the same shot.
If you can’t tell from the picture, not only did the weight from the governor make an impression on the aluminum of the rod cap, but it also sheared off part of the stud before twisting off the other side making a second mark on the aluminum. The upshot of all this damage was that the nut did not turn on the stud; instead, the stud turned in the rod. The full extent of the damage was not evident until the internal dimensions of the rod end were measured.
Pic 26 Rod #1 internals.
In the picture above, please note the designation of this rod as Rod #1, this mark is INCORRECT. Evidently, I got the crank turned around and started counting from the PTO end instead of the Flywheel end. In any case, the designation is obviously in error, since the photo above clearly shows the cam gear and the “E” on the crank shaft. I’m assuming that I numbered the jugs and the pistons correctly –I hope!
Pic 27 Another shot of the “big end” of Rod #2.
Pic 28 Another shot of the same subject from a different angle
The series continues with shots of either side of each piston.
Pic 29 Piston #1 (Top side?)
The Kohler manual cautions against using metal punches and scribes to mark parts; I respectfully disagree. I scratched ID marks on most parts with a scribe, and if I hadn’t I would have gotten things even more mixed up than I did.
Pic 30 Obverse of Piston #1
(Bottom?)
Pic 31 Piston #2 (Top?)
Pic 32 Obverse of Piston #2 (Bottom?)
I failed to document much about the disassembly of the valve train, but I thought I would include a shot of the tool I used, procured from my local NAPA store which also deals with Briggs & Stratton engines. I picked up the tool when I was working on the 16 HP twin B&S motor similar to those installed originally in IH Model 582 among others. A standard valve spring tool can also be used on a Kohler “jug” from what I understand.
Pic 33 B&S Valve Tool
When I was done getting the valves disassembled, I decided to put all the relevant parts together in a baggie together with a tag clearly indicating which valve, tappet, spring, keeper and seal went together.
Pic 34 Exhaust Valve #1 bagged and tagged.
Note: The last two images were taken with my camera set to VGA mode: 640 x 480 –it is the only format which comes close to the 100K limit set by this forum; any higher setting requires re-sizing of the photograph before posting; and even some of the VGA shots have to be cropped to get under the 100K limit. (I’m not complaining, I’m simply trying to pass on some tips and explain why the last two images appear smaller, or at least the do in the application in which I’m editing this document.
This post/thread will have a follow-up concerning the Inspection of the parts to determine what will need to be replaced or reworked. The purpose of this post/thread is simply to share the raw data of what things looked like before they were cleaned up and to confirm the full extent of the damage documented in the “M18 Starting Problem” post.
Pic 24 A shot of Rod #2 on the crank.

Pic 25 Close-up of the same shot.

If you can’t tell from the picture, not only did the weight from the governor make an impression on the aluminum of the rod cap, but it also sheared off part of the stud before twisting off the other side making a second mark on the aluminum. The upshot of all this damage was that the nut did not turn on the stud; instead, the stud turned in the rod. The full extent of the damage was not evident until the internal dimensions of the rod end were measured.
Pic 26 Rod #1 internals.

In the picture above, please note the designation of this rod as Rod #1, this mark is INCORRECT. Evidently, I got the crank turned around and started counting from the PTO end instead of the Flywheel end. In any case, the designation is obviously in error, since the photo above clearly shows the cam gear and the “E” on the crank shaft. I’m assuming that I numbered the jugs and the pistons correctly –I hope!
Pic 27 Another shot of the “big end” of Rod #2.

Pic 28 Another shot of the same subject from a different angle

The series continues with shots of either side of each piston.
Pic 29 Piston #1 (Top side?)

The Kohler manual cautions against using metal punches and scribes to mark parts; I respectfully disagree. I scratched ID marks on most parts with a scribe, and if I hadn’t I would have gotten things even more mixed up than I did.
Pic 30 Obverse of Piston #1

(Bottom?)
Pic 31 Piston #2 (Top?)

Pic 32 Obverse of Piston #2 (Bottom?)

I failed to document much about the disassembly of the valve train, but I thought I would include a shot of the tool I used, procured from my local NAPA store which also deals with Briggs & Stratton engines. I picked up the tool when I was working on the 16 HP twin B&S motor similar to those installed originally in IH Model 582 among others. A standard valve spring tool can also be used on a Kohler “jug” from what I understand.
Pic 33 B&S Valve Tool

When I was done getting the valves disassembled, I decided to put all the relevant parts together in a baggie together with a tag clearly indicating which valve, tappet, spring, keeper and seal went together.
Pic 34 Exhaust Valve #1 bagged and tagged.

Note: The last two images were taken with my camera set to VGA mode: 640 x 480 –it is the only format which comes close to the 100K limit set by this forum; any higher setting requires re-sizing of the photograph before posting; and even some of the VGA shots have to be cropped to get under the 100K limit. (I’m not complaining, I’m simply trying to pass on some tips and explain why the last two images appear smaller, or at least the do in the application in which I’m editing this document.
This post/thread will have a follow-up concerning the Inspection of the parts to determine what will need to be replaced or reworked. The purpose of this post/thread is simply to share the raw data of what things looked like before they were cleaned up and to confirm the full extent of the damage documented in the “M18 Starting Problem” post.