Amy, Amy, Amy - you passed the Blonde test! Yup, we now know for certain you're blonde. The 1250 is a model from the Quiet Line or QL series as Jeff mentioned. But they are "not" part of the 1x9 series. 1x9 would be either 109, 129, 149 or 169 which are the hydro units from the 1x8/1x9 series, and the 86, 108, 128 are the gear drives. They are also commonly referred to as the wide frame series, but in my view (and some don't agree) the QL is a wide frame as well. The number designation 1xx0 that Jeff mentioned does work but it's not generally used. If you just drop the last zero and consider the last digits (5 or 0) as either odd or even, then the 5 identifies it as a hydro or the 0 identifies it as a gear drive just like the earlier series, and the 2 digits before that identify the hp of the tractor, or in the case of the 800 the single digit 8 identifies it as an 8hp unit. I think the 1xx0 doesn't get used since the later CCC units don't really work out quite right and just using QL identifies the series enough for us. And finally, no you don't want to know what Brian W is currently calling his 1250. It will be alot nicer in about a month.
Jeff B - you know I was thinking, it's only 4 or 6 bolts (ya, don't remember) holding the frame to the rearend. Maybe you'd be better off splitting them.
Mike P - I agree with all the stuff on running another ground to your regulator. Ya gotta have a good one. But I'm also wondering if you set the timing after you changed the points. That backfiring stuff makes me think it's way off. In your case I'd recommend using your meter and setting the timing using the static method.
Mr. Plow - that sure is a nice looking 2 Bottom, and the decals are terrific as well.
Scott R - what Nic is saying is correct but I think you're implying your 73 has the "Quick Attach" latch and your 70 snow blade isn't set up to be used with a QA latch. Pics of your 70 blade are really what we need. There are a couple different styles that were used to attach the blade to the 70. You might just have a set up that used the mule drive bracket. This was not the preferred method but would work on a 70. There was also a type of sub-frame that required "frame extenders" (basically a piece of flat stock with 3 holes bolted to each side of the frame that extended downward. If you have this version you could bolt the frame extenders to your frame but it's somewhat of a pain to get it lined up to do this. Another possibility is with the frame extenders bolted to the blade sub-frame, you could insert a 1/2" rod thru the middle hole of the frame extender and then insert the rod into the Quick Attach slot. This is probably alot of info and pics would really allow us the best method to address your situation.
Keith W - yes it makes sense that your brake pedal will pull the hydro control slightly into reverse. Your linkage is out of adjustment. When adjusted correctly your brake pedal should pull the hydro lever into neutral, whether you depress the pedal while in forward or reverse. The linkage gets sloppy with age and you'll probably have to go back to where it connects onto the pump to adjust it. I believe there is an FAQ that addresses how to make this adjustment. And yes, it's most likely when you're in reverse and you depress the brake pedal it only pulls the hydro lever into neutral so it probably seems like that is currently correct, but you have to make your adjustment and find the happy medium. Hopefully when you're done it won't whine on you, which is also common. It's hard to get it exactly correct, and you might find yourself doing it about 3 times before you find the happy medium. I think sometimes you just never really find it, and you live with just pushing the brake part way. I believe most of us on here probably don't even use the brake on a hydro most of the time. We use the hydro lever to slow us down, and the brake for emergencies, or when we get off the tractor and leave it running. AND, if your brakes pads are worn way down (which is likely) and your max'd out on your brake adjustments (which is also likely) then with your brake pedal fully depressed you might still get some creep in your hydro so it's important to make sure its in full neutral when you get off the tractor with it running, and even block the wheels as necessary.
, run a new ground to the reg if you have to. After that you can help Charlie and 'feed' the Forum.
