So a friend sent me a text..

[jstorma]

Seller says its for a 725-3081and insist that it is.

There are two tags that have different numbers on them. They are a bit faded but can be read. I tried to look it up on the cub cadet website hoping to match the numbers up to know what it is but no match. 725-3070 and 725-3069. What hoping to at least help the seller out. From the other stuff they sell it does not appear they work with or are familiar with cub cadets.

 

[dsarow]

I'm curious who the seller is?Did you google your model number or part number?It almost looks like some of the connections are too modern.Its frustrating order parts,wait,then realize,not what you need!What is your next step?

 

[1811Cub]

This is a similar era harness for a purportedly for a 682/1710. I don't see all of those 5 pin connectors on this one:

 

[lpalma]

725-3069 is old IH-107166-C1. Is yours a early model? I see some of those 5 pin connectors have some wires that need to go to one of them that has the blue wire running to it., A wiring diagram would help.

 

[mgonitzke]

Regardless of serial number, there are too many 5 pin terminal connectors for a 1282, and none of them have 5 pins for the ignition switch. Judging by the amount of electrical tape, that harness has been modified.

 

[lpalma]

Maybe the seller can tell what color wires go to each terminal. That p.o. most likely removed any of the safety, pto, and relay switches, so you will have to source them from the sponsors above..

 

[jstorma]

There is not much left to the old harness. I can take a picture and post but I think the only thing left original is the thick red cable from the solenoid to the starter. Wires to the amp meter, hour meter, and coil/regulator. Everything else was hacked.

I did a search on ebay for 725-3081 and it popped up. It's on it's way back. Plans now are to just wait while I work on the rest. Maybe a good used one will pop up. I'm going to take my time with this tractor. Nothing I need in a hurry. In-laws said I can park it at there place since I don't have the room here. Father In-law can do a bit of welding on the frame. The tunnel cover holes have been drilled out and tapped 1/4-20. Going to have those welded up and re-drilled/tapped to the correct thread size. Also, I'll ask him to weld up the holes in the side of the frame for the custom lift cam the other owner made.

Was in contact with Rob Houtz. He didn't have a wire harness, but he said cub cadet did a have part number for the little stub in the frame on the side for the cam. He was going to get one for me. So hopefully I will be able to press or pound the new one in and tack weld it. We'll see what happens. Father in-law can work on the welding at his leisure.

If I can't find the correct wire harness. I think I'll get one from an older 782 or 682 and extend out the starter and coil/regular as needed. I'll use the old style PTO switch and ignition switch our get one in the same serial number range. I do see they must use a different rely, but I'll put the old one back in so it is at least there if needed. I should probably check it first to make sure it works! After studying the difference in the wire harnesses it might be easy to flip some wires in the connectors or make a few jumper wires. We'll see what happens. Definitely will post as things get along now and then. Thanks everyone!

 

[dschwandt]

Looks homemade to me.
Who is the seller that stuck you w/that rats nest??
Start by laying it out flat and tack it to a piece of plywood so all the break outs are vertical and at right angles to the longest section, which should be laid out straight.

This should give you a clue as to where a lot of them should go should.
Any members out there have a 1282 w/unmolested harness?
Perhaps you could snap a few decent pictures of the areas of the tractor where the harness terminates. This would also be a huge help in this mystery.

Here is a shot from the parts lookup of one for a 720000 serial number and above
Followed by one for the 719,999 and below
What is your serial number?

 

[lpalma]

This is a nos wire harness from Cub Cadet. You can see this one is missing a few of the connectors, I guess you use the old ones, plus the loom cover when replacing the old harness.

 

[1811Cub]

This company makes some harnesses for the era tractor you are working on. Might be able to get something to work for you.

Porch Electric - IH Cubs

 

[jstorma]

This company makes some harnesses for the era tractor you are working on. Might be able to get something to work for you.

Porch Electric - IH Cubs

I did get a wire harness from a 682 with the same serial number series. Emailed Porch Electric and told them I had one and could send both harnesses to them. They can use my provided 682 harness and copy that for that particular serial number and they could then sell new harnesses for that specific serial number series. I mentioned the 1282 harness was basically destroyed, but believe what makes it different is still intact. They could copy the 682 harness and then make a 1282 harness thus being able to provide both brand new wiring harnesses. I was then hoping to get the 682 harness back along with a free new 1282 harness, but I guess that wasn't a good deal to them, so I moved on.

 

[jstorma]

I had emailed Rob Houtz to see if he was willing to cut out a nub for the lift handle if he had a frame laying around. He said there is a part # for that and he could get me a new one and it was listed under the frame section.

Sure enough he pulled through. The part # is 711-3009; Hub, Lift Handle Stop.

Removing what was left of the old one was not as bad as I thought. The frame itself was not drilled out to that was a blessing. I just had to make some work with a hammer an chisel. The old one must have been welded in by some means of spot welding. The rest of the part came out in chunks. Once removed; a little sanding wheel work to clean up the old spot weld material and there was a good surface to put the new one in. I popped it in the hole and used a socket with an I.D. that was larger to fit over the smaller diameter on the hub and used a bolt and washer to hold it in place. Father in-law tacked it in just like Rob said to so. Also welded up the two holes that were drilled in the frame. All good.

Also got the engine torn down and cleaned up earlier this fall. Yesterday I removed the old tires from the rims and am looking at getting the rims blasted and powder coated.

 

[1811Cub]

Good info. I had one recently that was sheared off, and I drilled it out and tapped it. I will see if I can get one just to have if I encounter this again.

 

[rrschmitt]

WOW, what a mess! Whoever was the previous owner of that wiring hack job should never be allowed near anything mechanical or electrical ever again! Depending what model/options, not every connector is utilized in the wiring harnesses. Also, it appears that many of the original switches may have been removed and replaced with whatever non-stock type switch was available.

 

[jstorma]

Rims were powder coated and new 4ply Turf Master tires mounted. Next I'm working on getting Kirk Engine's balance plate installed and then have the engine block bored .010" over and the crank pin ground .010" under.

 

[MadMonkMort]

Looking at that rats nest of wiring, just be glad they didn't do what IH did with their mid-70's trucks. Every wire is GREEN, with a printed number on either end to ID the circuit. That printing wears off if you rub the dirt off it too hard so you can read it. Because nothing under a hood ever gets dirty, right?

 

[Jacob Michael]

Now granted, I have an AM/FM/cassette deck on my #72, and a total of seven taillights, 2 amber, 4 red, and a separately switched white work light, but NO WHERE do I have a wiring mess like JIM HAS. Jim will get it fixed.
I've never had a working hour meter on a CC registering 2000 hours, but I bet our old 70 has that many hours, maybe more. My 72 had 1472 hrs on the old K241, and the K321 has about 150.

I have a 782 with a pulling tractor engine in it. It's got the spark advanced and the maintenance minder has registered about 2650 hours.

 

[Bob H]

Here is my 1282, purchased in mid-Dec 2022. Mine had a myriad of little issues, and all that remains is a cosmetic restoration this spring. I would rebuild the original K301, as they are a stout piece, and very, very simple. Just make sure to use OEM Kohler points and condenser, as the aftermarket units are off enough to affect timing even if the gap is set to spec. Same with the carb. Resist the temptation of a pretty shiny Chyna carb. Rebuild the original using a Kohler kit, and check the throttle shaft for play, and bush it as necessary.

I love your Cadet , but I more so love your C20 in the background. I just bought a 1967 C10, this past summer, but it'll need a lot of time and work to look anything like yours.

 

[tkhoffman]

Looking at that rats nest of wiring, just be glad they didn't do what IH did with their mid-70's trucks. Every wire is GREEN, with a printed number on either end to ID the circuit. That printing wears off if you rub the dirt off it too hard so you can read it. Because nothing under a hood ever gets dirty, right?

The british do that. Standard wiring. My tractor (JCB) has all very small gauged yellow wire with microscopic numbering on the insulation. I had a visit from a hungry mouse. Aside from the harness being buried in an unremovable Dash, it was very hard to figure the wires to splice back together. Multi colors would have been better

 

[1811Cub]

Thank you. In addition to the 1972 Cheyenne, I am almost done with my 1970 K/5 Blazer. My dad ordered it in 1970, and I was gifted it in 1987. It served me well, but it eventually became extremely rusty. I collected parts for it over a 25 year span, and the past 2 years I have been devoting most of my non-working hours into it. Next on my list is a 1970 Chevy K20.