Archive through October 16, 2018

[kmcconaughey]

David, if you used a standard belt that is not designed to be twisted through the mule drive pulleys it will not last and will quickly derail. Spend the money and get a belt designed for that application and you will be money ahead.

EDIT: I see you are referring to the spindle belt, the belt that runs between the three spindles. Are the bearings nice and tight with no wobble? THat's a fairly long belt, a cheap replacement might be stretching. Did you get a Cub Cadet belt or a cheap "will fit" type?

 

[dcox]

Kraig, thanks for the reply. First belt was a Cub exact replacement. Since it kept jumping off I thought I'd try a Huskee belt that was a 1/2' inch shorter to take up slack. It jumped as soon as I turned the blades on. Presently I'm soaking the tensioner bracket in penetrating fluid to remove it and get all the goop and old belt remnants out from around the spring. As far as I can tell all the spindles appear to be in good condition. I only need to mow once or twice more this season and then I planned to refurbish the deck.

 

[hydroharry]

David - it's fairly unusual for the belt to come off the deck spindles. Larry asks some good questions about the tensioner assembly on the deck.

If the tensioner arm is worn (where the shoulder bolt fits) and allows the pulley to sit off-level with the deck pulleys it could be why the belt is coming off.

If the tensioner spring is shot so there is hardly any tension on the arm the belt will likely just fly off.

Have a good look at your tensioner assembly. You can post a few pics if you believe it looks all good.

If the tensioner seems fine then as Kraig suggests, check each spindle for wobble or rough rotation. Do this with the belt removed. You may have a bearing that failed which could be why your original belt broke. You can also try to lift up/down on each spindle (with the belt removed). You could have a bearing cup that has opened up and is allowing the spindle to move up/down causing the belt to come off.

David - under edit since you posted when I was typing - if the 1/2" shorter belt jumped as soon as you started the deck rotation then you must have a mis-alignment someplace. The belt tensioner is the most obvious and common culprit. You said you are soaking in penetrant. You should be able to tell if you have slop between the mounting shoulder bolt and tensioner arm. See if the pulley lifts up/down (it shouldn't) or if there is slop side to side (there shouldn't be).

 

[rrschmitt]

David,

It sounds like your tensioner (idler) spring may be broke which happens now and then. You shouldn't have to get a shorter belt get tension on your belt. The spring should be applying tension to the belt via the idler arm and pulley.

What often happens after years of use is the tensioner or idler arm will freeze tight to the idler shoulder bolt on which it pivots on due to dirt/moisture accumulation resulting in rust and lack of lubrication. The idler arm should pivot freely on the shoulder bolt. The tension spring also tends to rust on the surface over time and will eventually fail due to corrosion/fatigue.

You mention that you are currently soaking the bracket with penetrating oil which leads me to believe you have the current situation I described above as I've had the idler arm freeze up as well. I've at times had to press out the shoulder bolt to get it out so soaking it with penetrating oil may not free it up.

Also soak the nut on the shoulder bolt on the underside of the deck or you may end up twisting off the threaded part of the bolt. This may even happen with soaking it and you will need a new shoulder bolt.

You will likely find a fair amount of wear on the shoulder bolt from the tensioner arm. There may also be wear on the tube part of your idler arm where the shoulder bolt goes. This causes the tensioner arm to sag down and not align properly with the belt, which can also cause it to flip off.

Also, thoroughly inspect the tensioner pulley to make sure it spins freely and the bearing is not sloppy or wobbly which indicates the bearing is nearing failure and could be also causing the belt to flip off.

Edit: Also check each of your blade spindle bearings and belt pulleys, as Kraig M and Hydro Harry mentioned, to make each spins freely and the pulleys run true.

When you reinstall the shoulder bolt to the idler arm, coat it with a liberal amount of grease. New shoulder bolts come drilled with a grease zerk installed so you can apply a squirt of grease to the idler arm each year.
Hope this helps.

 

[dcox]

Hydro and Ron, thanks for the tips. It was the tension idler. Everything was pretty much froze up. Had to use heat to get nuts off. Spring looks ok from one side but is almost rusted into in spots. Not bad for almost 40yr old, I got my money's worth. Will replace most of it with new. Again, thanks for your advice.

 

[sblunier]

Plow Day Update on PD page......

 

[T-Mo]

I brought the 100 home last night. I got it for half the asking price, but it does have some issues. They said it last ran last year to move snow. Ad said it needed a "car" battery, but the cable ends are regular L&G battery type. I was concerned about the muffler pointing up and being left outside, but he said it was always covered with a tarp. I checked the oil and it looked fine, and not too dirty. He said it needed a coil, but it may be points, condenser, etc.

It wouldn't start nor even crank over. Maybe the starter/generator froze up, but I have to suspect the worst - seized engine? But it could be something a lot less serious or expensive.

It came with the front blade and the original operator's manual for the tractor. He said it had a deck, but it was shot. It was their dads tractor and from what I gather their dad bought it new. I pointed out the ags being on backwards, and they said that's the way it's always been. He said I wasn't the first to point that out either.

It's home, but I haven't had the time to take it off the trailer yet. It was dark when I got home and I had to get up at 3 this morning.

 

[hydroharry]

Terry - take the other half of the money you saved and go get that 108 that's really a 128.

 

[T-Mo]

I know I should have went after the 108/128, but I'm not a fan of the wide frames for some reason.

 

[hydroharry]

Terry - hsve you ever had a wide frame? Much easier to work on.

 

[hydroharry]

Just ran across this in my files. Any of you guys working over engines might find it helpful. My preference is to stick with original Kohler but the newer Mahle style.

Not sure where I got this or who wrote it:

Piston Kits
When selecting piston kits make sure you select the correct design on all K Series and Magnum engines.

There are 2 basic designs, the Old Style piston and the New Style (Mahle) piston. If you have the Old Style piston and you are Not replacing the rod you have to stay with the Old Style piston design.
If you want to upgrade to the better New Style (Mahle) piston you can but you have to also replace the rod with the New Style rod.
The Mahle style piston skirt profile was modified to provide a better fit within the cylinder bore. The ring channels were redesigned and the wrist pin was strengthened. A different connecting rod is required because of the extensive design changes.
Beware of shops selling the aftermarket "rebuild kits" more then likely these are imports. These parts in many cases will not inter-change with genuine Kohler parts, example aftermarket rings will not fit in genuine Kohler pistons. They are also selling the old style piston design, further they are also claiming "It's what the rebuilders use". In my 30 plus years in the power equipment industry I have never heard of the term "rebuilders" in the small engine business unless they may be referring to backyard mechanics that are using aftermarket internal engine parts. You may be saving in price but not Quality.

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[wshytle]

Hydro-

That is an interesting write up on the two types of pistons. No name attached?

And Terrys possible wide frame purchase isn't necessarily a 108 "that's really a 128". I would describe it as I do mine as a 108/128. The decals on the hood are what makes the difference. Now it can't be a 128 without proper hood decals right??? (LOL). I believe other than the decals and the minute difference in engines the two tractors are the exact same bolt for bolt. Also in my case I recently repowered Bull with a rebuilt yellow original engine, Kohler carb and all so it's even closer to "that's really a 128".

.

 

[T-Mo]

Harry, I had a 1250. I still like the narrow frames better, but after looking at the 100 some more, maybe....

Good news and bad news on the 100. I loosen the belt to the S/G to see which was locked up, the S/G or the engine. It was the engine....I pulled the plug and it isn't looking too good. I see rust on top of the piston and the plug was weird looking. All I had was a bit of motor oil, so I put a little straight through the plug hole and the engine turned just a tiny bit. I will get something a bit stronger, maybe transmission fluid, and pour a bit of that in and let it sit for a spell. Good news, the S/G isn't seized up. So, there's that.

I took some pictures before I got it off the trailer. It still has the original dealers tag on it. I haven't check the serial number yet to see what year it is.

 

[T-Mo]

One more picture.

 

[hydroharry]

Wayne - I wish I knew who wrote that info on the pistons. It must have been written along time ago. My Kohler manual from 1992 identifies 3 piston styles. It doesn't refer to them as old and new like the pics I posted. The old style in my pic is called Style A and the new style in my pic is Style D. They also call out a Style C which is only used on the K341. Style C looks very similar to the Style D except it has a notch on the top used as a direction identifier, and it also has criss-cross design on the recessed area of the skirt.

Now about your 108/128. That RED stipe on the hood decal is critical to make it a 128. I always wished the 169 used a RED stripe. You probably have to take a hammer and punch and change your Serial No. from 0043 to 0045 too.

Terry - I don't like what I'm hearing (seeing). The PO told you it just needed a car battery right? I know you got it for half the asking price so I hope it was still worth it. And just go get the 108 (128 in disguise). You probably didn't really like the 1250 because of the ISO-mounts or side panels or AQS engine, etc. You'll like the 108(128) even with a green pin stripe on the hood decal.

 

[dmcphee]

Nice looking tractor Terry. Hope you can get it running.

 

[dmcphee]

So I replaced the bolt that attaches the idler pulley and it worked great. Pics attached. Still trying to figure out how to get the PTO to engage at a faster speed to mow. The mower worked great when I first mowed but then I adjusted the turnbuckle to the PTO and the tension adjustment at the front of the tractor base. When I engage the PTO it starts reallll slowwww and sometimes doesn’t move. Then I adjust the turnbuckle and loosen it and it moves some but the PTO lever is so loose it falls back to closed position. I guess it’s a real touchy adjustment. You guys had this issue? Seems like the mower just doesn’t want to move/spin fast enough to mow (like it did 7 days ago).

 

[etopel]

Don- Make sure your belts are all routed correctly and didn't come off a pulley somewhere. If you loosen the pto turnbuckle until the handle is flopping around the pto clutch would be fully engaged and you couldn't shut it off. There should be a very small gap between the wear button on the lever and the thrust button on the clutch when the lever is forward. The book calls for 0 to .030" gap.

 

[sblunier]

OTF.....PLOW DAY....

 

[kshultz]

Have fun and be safe this weekend! Maybe I'll be there next year.