• This community needs YOUR help today!

    With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
    We need more Supporting Members today.

    Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.

    Why Join?

    • Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
    • Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
    • Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!

    This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:

    Upgrade Now

Archive through February 18, 2012

IH Cub Cadet Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Why would a manual lift have a lockout pin? Isn't that on the lift handle @ index finger?
 
TOM - Are you meaning the FLOAT lock? So a mower or ??? can follow the ground contour?

Some float was built into some attachments but most of the float was in the lift lever.

The early CC's had a wire bail that slipped over the button on top to hold it down. I think the CCO's, 70/100/71/102/122/123 had the bail. 72/104/105 etc & newer had the index finger lock.
 
Dennis,
Yup, I know about the floating action with the pin on the ift handle, but the manuals talk about a float lockout pin being optional on the QL gear drives. Check out the the manual page on the quiet line. This is on page #30
 
Thanks for the input Dennis. That's semi-good news, if true. In theory that would mean that as long as I haven't disturbed the governor gear and flyweights, that I should be able to just install the new shaft. Of course I'll still need to somehow get the broken metal tab out of the oil pan. Maybe I'll be lucky enough to use a manual borescope to fish it out? I really don't want to pull the engine if I can help it. Any thoughts?

Brent
 
Dennis-

I did spend some time trying this method to no avail. I did not want to stress the metal tang too much. Then I realized I would need to pull the oil pan to retrieve the broken metal tang anyways. I also want to visually verify the governor is in the correct place when I close the engine up again. danWI
 
Dan Bauer

I had a governor fall off when doing and engine rebuild a few years ago. I removed the cover on the cam and put the governor back in place with some coat hanger wire. I made sure I had the screw in place before I put the cam cover back on.You might be able to get the tab out if you have the cam cover off. I have a new governor here and when installed I could never get the engine to not run wild,I had to install another governor and had no problems with the second new governor. I don`t see any difference in the two .
 
Harry: I checked my post date/time again, and that's how it shows up on my computer. Technically, Richard's problem was at what I call "the connector" but he would have found the problem if he had followed my original advice.

Again, Richard was the real winner in all this, and I'm glad to learn he benefited from the experience and wisdom found on this site.
smile.gif
 
Ok, I actually hate to post this but, I've got dibs on a front axle from a fellow member here that I want to use to upgrade my 782. I'm fairly sure this is a Super Steer axle. It's from an "18XX". Isn't a Stuper Steer the only ones that use the funky, left side, bolt on, upper arm? Please don't just say no, so you can turn around and buy it... I've been in the market for one for some time.

Here's a pic:
235573.jpg
 
Jeremiah - everyone gets some credit but yes, Richard was the real winner since he solved his self inflicted problem. It does happen to the best of us, but one question remains open:

Richard - we need to know. The switch you had on the shelf, is it good?

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die
 

Latest posts

Back
Top