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Archive through November 14, 2013
- Thread starter sblunier
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
Setting the governor on a K241ASQ engine - is it the same as other older Kohlers?
Steve B., (or anyone)-
What is the length of the draw bar on a cat O implement (including pins)? I need the pin length as well. Does TSC or any farm supply of the like sell just the draw bar?
I hope it's ok to ask this here. It does involve an IH CC.
Hope things are moving right along for you Charlie.
What is the length of the draw bar on a cat O implement (including pins)? I need the pin length as well. Does TSC or any farm supply of the like sell just the draw bar?
I hope it's ok to ask this here. It does involve an IH CC.
Hope things are moving right along for you Charlie.
Wayne, I have one I could measure this evening for you. Northern Tool sells them TSC might as well. Mine is red but looks just like this.
I believe the length without the pins is 20"
I believe the length without the pins is 20"
Thanks Kraig-
I'll be going near a TSC this afternoon. I have a project in mind for a possible addition to the herd. I'm also not very edakated on cat O lifts because I've never owned one.
I'm assuming they sell center links as well.
More to come later...(hopefully).
I'll be going near a TSC this afternoon. I have a project in mind for a possible addition to the herd. I'm also not very edakated on cat O lifts because I've never owned one.
I'm assuming they sell center links as well.
More to come later...(hopefully).
Wayne, are you thinking of making something like this?
If so, I have some detailed photos and dimensions for one...
If so, I have some detailed photos and dimensions for one...
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- Home of the Plow Special
Is this what Wayne needs? (Category-0 top link)
What's the dimensions of a wear bar on a 42" front blade for my Cub Cadet? The new-to-me one I just got is so worn down all the bolts and nuts are half worn away. It had been flipped already. 4 1/2" angle grinder took quick care of what's left of these nuts n bolts.
mhomrighausen
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- Marlin Homrighausen
Question for everyone. I have some aluminum on the engine housing where the muffler shroud bolts onto that needs welding. I can't afford to take it to a local shop. Their minimum charge is $30.00 even if it take thems five minutes. What is a good aluminum stick rod to use? It is on Fancy's 1650. The original engine has a lot of cracked areas due to negligence so I'll practice on it. TIA.
My welder is a 50+ year old Forney and I can dial up to 185 and down to 20 if necessary. Plus any tips would be greatly appreciated.
Marlin,
I am not the one to give any advice on welding, because almost anyone can weld better than me and knows more about the art.
Everyone here knows more about a Cub Cadet than me.
What I can tell you is that the back of the muffler box on the 1250 Nightmare looked about as described. I didn't want to deal with it, either. First, I bought a muffler crutch from David Kirk and installed it. That was a very good investment. Then, I cleaned all the cracks and cracked areas with brake cleaner, degreaser or something. I did a final cleaning with starting fluid. I let it sit overnight to be sure everything was dry, and applied JB Weld to the cracks. More than a year later, it is still holding; the fumes that were wafting back at me appear to be going where they are supposed to go and the muffler box seems to vibrate a whole lot less.
From my prior postings, you know I have had a lot of trouble with vibration. After several tweeks over time, I finally have a happy medium with my motor mounts and I believe they are doing what they are designed to do. There has been no further cracking or deterioration of the muffler box backing plate since the JB weld was applied.
Good luck. This is just my 2 cents. I probably couldn't get it to work again in my lifetime.
I am not the one to give any advice on welding, because almost anyone can weld better than me and knows more about the art.
Everyone here knows more about a Cub Cadet than me.
What I can tell you is that the back of the muffler box on the 1250 Nightmare looked about as described. I didn't want to deal with it, either. First, I bought a muffler crutch from David Kirk and installed it. That was a very good investment. Then, I cleaned all the cracks and cracked areas with brake cleaner, degreaser or something. I did a final cleaning with starting fluid. I let it sit overnight to be sure everything was dry, and applied JB Weld to the cracks. More than a year later, it is still holding; the fumes that were wafting back at me appear to be going where they are supposed to go and the muffler box seems to vibrate a whole lot less.
From my prior postings, you know I have had a lot of trouble with vibration. After several tweeks over time, I finally have a happy medium with my motor mounts and I believe they are doing what they are designed to do. There has been no further cracking or deterioration of the muffler box backing plate since the JB weld was applied.
Good luck. This is just my 2 cents. I probably couldn't get it to work again in my lifetime.
Marlin H.
Years ago I used ZENA rods that worked well in a pinch.
But a standard aluminum arc rod #4043. 1/8 Dia.
BUT, you really need to do DC reverse polarity for any aluminum arc welding rod to work very well.
Years ago I used ZENA rods that worked well in a pinch.
But a standard aluminum arc rod #4043. 1/8 Dia.
BUT, you really need to do DC reverse polarity for any aluminum arc welding rod to work very well.
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Marlin - I think you're talking about the muffler box, which IH and Kohler refers to as the Air Duct Assembly. There are 3 parts here and IH gave it its own separate page in the parts book with a nice big picture. The back of the box is a cast piece which I have some doubts is aluminum. I think it might just be a die cast piece. The remainder of the box is 2 thin steel pieces, almost tin like. I'd certainly try Brian's JB weld on the back piece before trying to weld it, especially since Brian seems to have had good luck - and if it's not aluminum you might just end up with a pile of slag. I've found the back piece is prone to the threaded holes stripping out very easily, and the thin steel of the top and main box cracks in multiple places. I've usually drilled and re-threaded the holes in the back piece, and used straps and patches over any cracks, and large washers on the thin steel where it bolts to the back piece. Usually works out pretty good. David Kirk's crutch is an excellent addition as well and provides additional support to reduce stress as he describes. Good luck with it and let us know how you make out - even pics would be nice, before and after.
mhomrighausen
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- Marlin Homrighausen
Brian. Charlie and Harry. THANK YOU!!! I'll definitely get some pictures of before and after. I'm finally going back to work today after missing 1 1/2 weeks of work due to pulling a muscle in my side. I'm still sore only it drives me crazy just sitting around.
Charlie P. The rubber mounts work perfectly and I'll recommend them to anyone. And for those that don't know which rubber isomounts I'm talking about. Charlie sells a set that are a lot cheaper tham OEM that aren't as stiff as OEM or those nasty NAPA replacement isomounts.
All goes well this weekend, I should have some pictures ofFancy's 1650 running and that beoken Air Duct Assembly.
Wayne S. Great score on the 982.
Off to work. Everyone have a wonderful day.
p.s. I can't wait for Charlie's site to be up and running again. My local dealer charges shipping on everything I've ordered making some parts cost half again as much. I love Charlie's flat rate.
Charlie P. The rubber mounts work perfectly and I'll recommend them to anyone. And for those that don't know which rubber isomounts I'm talking about. Charlie sells a set that are a lot cheaper tham OEM that aren't as stiff as OEM or those nasty NAPA replacement isomounts.
All goes well this weekend, I should have some pictures ofFancy's 1650 running and that beoken Air Duct Assembly.
Wayne S. Great score on the 982.
Off to work. Everyone have a wonderful day.
p.s. I can't wait for Charlie's site to be up and running again. My local dealer charges shipping on everything I've ordered making some parts cost half again as much. I love Charlie's flat rate.
tkhoffman
Well-known member
Vince T
I'll look at mine. It appears to be in good shape I think it is close to 3" x 42 long.
I'll look at mine. It appears to be in good shape I think it is close to 3" x 42 long.
hydroharry
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Tom H and Vince T - naw, it's more like 2" x 42", and if you're gonna make one you just as well use 3/16" thick steel. The original is 1/8" at best. Best way to keep it from wearing out is to set the skidders so it's about 1/8" or slightly more, off the ground.
Tom - by the way, what kind of seat is that on your 782? Looks pretty ideal for plowing and what ever that left side lean is called.
Tom - by the way, what kind of seat is that on your 782? Looks pretty ideal for plowing and what ever that left side lean is called.
Tony, I would recommend that you use a ridged lift rod in place of that chain. The chain will lift the blade just fine but it will not limit the blade from rising up and smacking your grill...
I have a line on a Windbreaker cab. The guy says it fits an 1861 but it was never on the tractor. Did they make them for the newer tractors?I was wondering if this would fit a 1250. I haven't seen it in person. Only pictures.
