Archive through October 12, 2018

[hydroharry]

Don - I see Wayne and Gerry provided you some recommendations for your deck idler arm situation.

Gerry provided you the part number for just the replacement bolt. It is the version that has a grease zerk on it already. If your deck spindle cover doesn't have a hole thru it so the zerk is exposed I'd suggest you drill out an opening so you can keep the bolt greased up.

I assume this is the kit that Wayne mentions. https://www.ccspecialties.org/pics/759-04324B%20service%20kit.jpg The idler arm is quite a bit different looking from the original version (which Charlie does have). Looks like it has a separate bolt to mount the idler pulley, instead of welded threaded pin used on the original. Wayne says it's a nice kit so I assume it works good.

I think Wayne was suggesting a good hard look at your current Idler Arm. It usually wears somewhat oval where the big bolt goes thru it. You could take your current bolt and slip it into the hole and see if it is wobbly. If so then you really need the new idler arm as well. Wayne also suggests considering a new spring, which apparently doesn't come as part of the kit. If you're idler arm is worn and needs to be replaced then your spring very likely does as well and I 2nd Wayne's suggestion on the spring, but I still like the original idler arm.

Now - for my final comment on this situation. That *&^$ nut that goes to the shoulder bolt. It doesn't come with the Kit and doesn't come with the bolt by itself. The Parts List calls it out as being 3/8 x 16, GR5. I'm not sure that's correct. (I seem to recall it takes an odd ball 11/16th wrench to fit it). What I do know is I could never find the same size and thickness in the hardware stores when I lived in CT. I had to go to the automotive parts stores, and I eventually ordered a whole dang box since I did a lot of decks. The nut in your pic still has the broken bolt in it so I assume you're gonna need a nut as well. Good luck with that. (Maybe 2 regular size nuts fit - I don't recall - it could'a just been me wanting to keep things original).

Hey posts some pics after you fix your deck. We all like to see pics.

 

[hydroharry]

Mike C - when you replaced your bearing before did you make sure the bearing fit tightly into the wheel? If they just slip in then they are to loose. With the bearing removed you can hammer around the outside to tighten the bearing fit. If the entire bearing was spinning within the wheel your wheels could be shot and need replacing.

Also, did you check your end play when you installed the bearings? 1x8/9 Service Manual page 2-15, calls out 1/32nd" max. I think Charlie has the shims. This is actually quite important. If you have to much end play the bearing will eventually slip out of position and prematurely wear out - which is what I think you experienced.

 

[dschwandt]

Larry, you are lucky to find an experienced shop like that that would "fool" with a small engine.

The shop I took mine to last year jacked me around for over 10 months and I finally went and pick it up, delivered it to another shop and 10 days later I had it back ready to reassemble w/all new parts including decking the block and installing new valves and guides.

They have a guy that does all the small engine work on staff.

 

[hydroharry]

David - you make a good point. I really think you want a shop that is experienced in Kohlers. Long long time ago, when I took my first K301 to a shop, I picked it because they were known for hot rodding small B/S engines for go-carts. I figured they must know what they're doing. I called about 3 weeks later only to find out they couldn't get the flywheel off. The crank and bore was ok so I only had it honed and new piston and rod installed. I still sorta wondered about the crank since they are so critical on Kohlers.

I'm wondering now what work the shop is or performed for Larry. Sounds like Larry did his own machine work on the crank where David Kirk's balance plate fits.

 

[wshytle]

Don-

One other thing I didn't mention but you may have to drill a hole (I drill 1" holes here) in the pulley cover once the new shoulder bolt is installed with the zerk on top. I can't remember about the 38" deck but it may still apply. If so, measure it well to and froe. The last two I did were on a 44A and 50A which obviously has a different cover but I think I did a 42" and also had to drill.

.

 

[balbrecht]

Mike C,
The last two sets of front wheel bearing I got from Cub Cadet Corp fell apart in less than a year. I bought the next set from the local CaseIH dealer and had no more issues.

 

[dmcphee]

Thanks for the input Wayne and Harry.

I'll get a few pics posted when the parts arrive.

D

 

[lkortkamp]

Dave,
Luckily I have a long time relationship with them. They used to do a ton of work for a guy that built lawn tractor pulling motors. So not a big deal for them. They will work on anything for the most part.

This will get new guides for the new valves I got in the kit. It will get the same fine tooth comb work that all the race engines get. Not some fly by night work.

The piston was kinda on the small side, so they honed it to fit properly. So it is more like an .0085 oversized bore, not just .010 as that would make it way too sloppy of fit. Blueprinting 101.

Harry,

I work at a machine shop(though not dealing with engines), so I have full access to many machines which I taught myself how to run over the last 32 yrs here. I mounted the crank in a rotary table in a Bridgeport and machined the surface for the plate. Drill and tap the holes and will be ready to assemble it.

 

[dcox]

The deck belt on my 44c finally broke after several years of service. I replaced both the main drive belt as well as the deck belt that drives the outer spindles. My problem, I cannot keep the deck belt from coming off. First belt I used was what the book called for. 1/2" x 77 1/2". When that didn't work I went to TSC and bought a belt 1/2" shorter. I can't keep that on either. Going by my manual I think I'm mounting it correctly on the pulleys. Any suggestions?

 

[lkortkamp]

How tight is the tensioner pulled to get the belt on?

Can you run the deck at a low speed and watch how the belts moves around, then speed up to see when it finally throws it. Or does it throw it at idle speed also?

Some how, my 42" deck is still running the original belt from when I bough the tractor 8-9 yrs ago? Don't know how old it actually is.