Archive through November 14, 2013

[vthomley]

Thanks guys, I used a piece of ¼” thick x 2” steel that was 45” long cut it to 42” the drilled then 7 bolt holes, reamed out(counter sunk) these holes for flat head 5/16-18x1” screws. I’ll paint it tonight and have it installed tomorrow. Amazing how easy it is to do this here at work with all the steel working tools. I’m guessing it took me all of 20 minutes, at home it would have been an hour or 2.

 

[hydroharry]

Tony H and Vince T - oops, my message below says Tom H which was my mistake. To used to seeing Tom on here, but I should have realized it wasn't Tom since he's just not a Hydro guy and I just don't think would have a 782. Here's the message corrected:

Tony H and Vince T - naw, it's more like 2" x 42", and if you're gonna make one you just as well use 3/16" thick steel. The original is 1/8" at best. Best way to keep it from wearing out is to set the skidders so it's about 1/8" or slightly more, off the ground.

Tony - by the way, what kind of seat is that on your 782? Looks pretty ideal for plowing and what ever that right side lean is called.

 

[hydroharry]

Vincent T - you were posting when I was correcting. I see you already made the new cutting edge. If you have all those tools how come you didn't cut square holes and use carriage bolts? (I'm actually wondering how those square holes get cut and thought you might know).

 

[vthomley]

Those Square holes get cut by Machinists...sorry I could resist. A square punch press probably cut them out. Today a laser machine would do it. I don't know how to run those machines.

Tomorrow I'll mount this on my snow blade, install weights and chains, then my 1650 with a 10hp will be ready for the season.

 

[bjamison]

So I was changing the hydro fluid in my modern 1650 a week ago and those who witnessed the innards of the tranny were amazed at the size of the gears and mass of the cast iron rear end. I finally got me some 1-1/4 long 3/8-16 threaded bolts to mount the bottom 3 point hitch bracket to the transmission and found myself in need of asking a quick question.

A little background. My other color tractors are tough as nails and are worthy competitors to the IHCC, but I give credit to IH in one regard, if for whatever reason I need to get off the seat and push the tractor backwards, don't think I'm going to damage the hood pushing on it. Further, I don't know if it's the zig or the zag (on the pretty 126 I have) that slightly extends out on the lower portion of the tractor, but were I to be texting on my cell phone while mowing with that tractor and smashed into a fence post, I'm pretty sure that cast iron grill would inflict damage on the post vs the other way around.

Which brings me to the rear end of these IHCC tractors. While my other color tractors can make for a hard pull, I don't know that I would want to jerk something with them - like pulling the slack out of a chain when otherwise hooked an immovable object. For whatever reason, I can't imaging that would hurt an IHCC - or will it?

Does anyone ever damage the tranny housing when pulling with their IHCC's? Not talking about in tractor pulls, but yanking a log or giving a jerk to something to get it moving in the first place - probably we've all done it/do it from time to time.

The three bolts to the hitch - is that all the pullers rely on with their IHCC's or do they beef things up and make their hitches pick-up the other bolts on the rear face of the tranny?

BTW - the last thing I jerked with my fine 1650 was my 1250 parts tractor. Seemed once I got it rolling, I was good to go, but didn't have enough traction to pull it from a dead stop, so I back-up a few inches and gave it a jerk!

 

[vthomley]

Bill, the pulling hitches I had connected to the bottom 3 bolts and the top 2 bolts. No other connection anywhere.

I have a ported hydro rear that the hitch is worn out, torn out. I'd like to know what is was pulling during its lifetime. With turf tires you'll most always loss traction before breaking something in the rear on these wonderful Cub Cadets. Probably the same for Ag tires.

 

[kide]

Bill - haven't broken anything in 28 years of working the 129 and the hitch hole is almost worn through to the edge - but "jerking" when attached to the tab hitch can be as harmful to the guts as the housing.. They will take almost an infinite amount of abuse, but over stressing parts can be an additive thing. Eventually, just like in bending a piece of steel back and forth, it'll break..

 

[mhomrighausen]

For anyone wanting to make square holes... How to make a square hole. Or if you want to spend some money... Click Here.

 

[hydroharry]

Marlin - thanks for that. Pretty neat links. Now that I know how to make the square holes I finally have a use for my round pegs

Bill "Quick Question" Jamison - If you're gonna go "jerking or tugging" something I'd recommend getting a "Jerk Bar" and attaching it to the frame rather than the rearend. The rearends are tough but can be broken - so you really want to go direct to the frame which I don't think you'd break, but I suppose could bend. I would guess you had to give your 1250 a jerk with your 1650 because you really couldn't get enough traction with the 1650.

 

[kmcconaughey]