-
This community needs YOUR help today!
With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
We need more Supporting Members today.Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.
Why Join?
- Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
- Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
- Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!
This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:
Archive through May 23, 2019
- Thread starter digger
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Timothy D.-
That depends on what size wheels and what type of weights you are putting on. I usually just get bolts longer than I think I need and cut them to the correct length once the weights are installed.
That depends on what size wheels and what type of weights you are putting on. I usually just get bolts longer than I think I need and cut them to the correct length once the weights are installed.
- Joined
- Dec 13, 2004
- Messages
- 81
- displayname
- Paul Van Benschoten
Why did it take so long?
I have a 127 that is rarely used and always hard starting. Over the last year, I kept checking the timing, cleaning the carburetor and fiddling with the ignition but it was always hard to start.
I had a spare starter/generator that I had rebuilt a few years ago. I installed that one and WoW now it starts quickly!
I measured the RPMs of both starters and the one I have been using was much slower than the rebuilt one. I don't recall what the RPMs were but there is a 1K difference.
Again, why did I wait so long to check the starter? Now I will use the tractor more since starting is not a problem.
I have a 127 that is rarely used and always hard starting. Over the last year, I kept checking the timing, cleaning the carburetor and fiddling with the ignition but it was always hard to start.
I had a spare starter/generator that I had rebuilt a few years ago. I installed that one and WoW now it starts quickly!
I measured the RPMs of both starters and the one I have been using was much slower than the rebuilt one. I don't recall what the RPMs were but there is a 1K difference.
Again, why did I wait so long to check the starter? Now I will use the tractor more since starting is not a problem.
Thank you Gerry!
mgwin
Well-known member
Paul,
All S/G's are not created equal. I think there are three or four types of S/G's used on cub cadets.
You may have one for an earlier or later series cub. Don't ask me what the difference is, but I am sure many of the other guys could tell you.
Worn brushes could also cause this problem.
All S/G's are not created equal. I think there are three or four types of S/G's used on cub cadets.
You may have one for an earlier or later series cub. Don't ask me what the difference is, but I am sure many of the other guys could tell you.
Worn brushes could also cause this problem.
mgwin
Well-known member
Watched shows/documentaries on PBS all evening yesterday about the wars.
It would change this country's attitude if they would see what those guys went through.
Now that is some interesting, worthwhile TV.
Shed some tears through most of it.
My utmost respect and gratitude for every person who wore/wears a uniform and fights for the American flag and what it stands for!
It would change this country's attitude if they would see what those guys went through.
Now that is some interesting, worthwhile TV.
Shed some tears through most of it.
My utmost respect and gratitude for every person who wore/wears a uniform and fights for the American flag and what it stands for!
Charlie, thanks for the advice on the creeper yoke, it worked like a charm. However, I could use a better set of punch pins, any suggestions? Oh, does CCS have complete sets of o-rings or a complete rebuild kit for these?
Finally, perhaps you could help identify this spring, the plastic broke into pieces and I’m not sure what this is. Thanks again!
Finally, perhaps you could help identify this spring, the plastic broke into pieces and I’m not sure what this is. Thanks again!
George L.
I use Starett pin punches.
As far as what the seal spring is, I have no clue.
How big is it?
Someone as some point may have replaced the tail shaft with a spring style.
There's no (kit), just parts and pieces.
I use Starett pin punches.
As far as what the seal spring is, I have no clue.
How big is it?
Someone as some point may have replaced the tail shaft with a spring style.
There's no (kit), just parts and pieces.
George L.
For you and others for down the road. No need to remove the input shaft bearing cage unless the O-ring is or looks like it is leaking.
They are the biggest PITA to get back in without cutting the new O-ring, unless you chamfer the main housing edge, Just sayin. LOL
For you and others for down the road. No need to remove the input shaft bearing cage unless the O-ring is or looks like it is leaking.
They are the biggest PITA to get back in without cutting the new O-ring, unless you chamfer the main housing edge, Just sayin. LOL
