Archive through February 14, 2013

[glippert]

Keith O - That looks right to me.

 

[glippert]

Keith - Here's mine:

 

[bwittman]

Keith,

I asked a similar question about balance gears several weeks ago.

Here is what David Kirk said: To my knowledge, balance gear-equipped Kohler K-series engines were never used in the Quietline Cub Cadet tractors.

I can accept that answer.

Your project looks great!

 

[kostendorf]

Greg, looks the same to me I'll weld it up in the morning.

 

[lcarter]

Don T, a shot in the dark but I had a carb problem (Walbro). Turned out there is an "O" ring and brass washer on some Walbro high speed needles. You have to remove the high speed needle and look down inside the cavity it screws into to see it. It normally comes in a rebuild kit but no one ever seems to use it. I looked at the picture you posted but I can't recognize carbs enough to tell if yours is a Walbro. You can use a bent paper clip to fish it out if you do happen to have the "O" ring, washer setup. A bad one will cause all types of high speed operation problems.

 

[hydroharry]

Lewis Do Da - so you "converted" the AQS to what is an AS or A (got rid of the Q for Quiet). You must have changed the muffler over, changed the starter to Starter/Generator, changed the flywheel to non-ring year, changed the flywheel shroud, change the air cleaner, changed the PTO to manual. Question -
Did you change the carb style and throttle spring back to the older series style? I was wondering if that might be necessary for some reason.

Larry C - "You Missed" with your shot in the dark.

Don has a Kohler (Carter) carb.

 

[jchamberlin]

Don T: I didn't mean to confuse you with "T" and "S" marks, I was just trying to keep you from disassembling the engine unnecessarily. Gerry Ide has a helpful suggestion about confirming valve timing. I'm not sure if the "S" and "T" are marked on the crank or the cam; I was assuming they were marks on the cam, but if the crank is marked, then I suppose you would have to open up the crankcase to confirm valve timing.

Everyone seems to think that the problem is NOT valve timing, I was just trying to come up with a way to confirm the mechanics short of opening up the crank case.

Thinking out loud, if the marks are on the crank (which makes sense, really), then one would need a degree wheel and the specification for when in the 180 degrees of rotation Before or After TDC the valves open to see if the valve timing is correct.

Again, if the problem IS the ignition timing (not the valve timing) or fuel related, then the mechanical valve timing isn't the issue.

I kind of agree with everyone else, the problem is most likely ignition timing or a fuel delivery issue (including the carburetor). At this point, you're probably better off sleeping on it, and tomorrow everything will be clear.

I only tried to offer a way to eliminate or isolate a valve timing problem short of pulling the engine and disassembling it.

 

[lpalma]

Harry...

I used the old carb that was on the original motor.The choke lever was different on the AQS so I did not use it,besides it had a seized choke and throttle shaft.I also had to remove the dipstick tube that came out of the side of the block and cover it with a plate.The bearing plate had to be switched, then I put the high boss head back on it so could put the correct tin back on, not sure if it was an LP head though.

 

[hydroharry]

Lewis Do-Da - geez, I never thought a 10hp dipstick tube would come out the side of the block - especially since the 10hp never got balance gears to begin with, and that's the only reason to come out the side. You must have changed all the trottle linkage. You said you used the "original" carb. The tractor appears to originally be a 70 but did it have a 10hp or original 7hp. I'm almost certain the bearing plate from a 7hp wouldn't work on a 10hp. Did you get that from another donor? And how did you do the block off plate to cover the AQS oil fill tube opening into the block?

 

[dtanner]

Thanks guy for all the suggestions ; the help is much appreciated .

Thanks to Wayne S for the call (1.5 hrs) . we had no problems with both our accents . Just to bad we live so far apart that we could visit and help each other. What a great thing that would be.I have a plan to remove the Carb off my 129 loader and see what the 125 works like with what I know is a great working carb. But in the am I think I will move on to another tractor. My 1512 needs a valve adjustment , so that will be my plan for the am. I need to work at something that will work after I`am done lol. Some day I hope to install a 14 hp in a 104 with a creeper and hyd lift with rear three point . all I need for that build is the lift arm for the three point.I think that would be a straight bar . I will save the spring assist for the 147 or another Cub .

 

[lpalma]

Harry....
The hood is not the original 100 hood,the hood was mia so it keeps you guessing.I made the blockoff plate . If you go back a few post you will see the dipstick.This motor was on a 1000 that was rebuilt. Then it was left outside with a bunch of other tractors after the owner fell ill.They were there for 15 years.By then the 1000 was beyond saving but the motor ran .

 

[hydroharry]

Don T - your last post is after mid-night your time. You better be gettin that beauty sleep so you can get the 125 purrin like a kitten tomorrow.

 

[tbdavis]

Morning all! Wondering if anyone has had any luck removing and reinstalling the serial number plate on a tranny. I would like to change rear ends in a 126 but would like to retain the original serial number. Thanks

 

[messary]

Don T,
Had one that had a stumble on acceleration like you describe. After working on fuel/ carb issues with no success. I changed the condensor - problem solved. I think a bad or failing condensor can cause a variety of issues based on my experience. Maybe worth a shot?

 

[bjamison]

Keith - looks good!

Here's mine:

 

[dtanner]

mike essary

I wanted to use Kirk engines Point saver on the 125 and have that connected and it does not require a condensor. So this morning I think I will remove the point saver and add a condensor and see if that might be my problem .I guess it could be a bad point saver ?

 

[kostendorf]

The pads on my oil pan where the ISO bracket bolts to are not flat any more and I was wondering if any one knows how thick they are supposed to be so I can machine them flat and make shims to fix. or should I look for a different oil pan?

 

[kostendorf]

Does any one have a pic of the oil pan showing these pads?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Here's a couple of update photos from Joseph Smith of his 1650 that he's been working on.

 

[pbell]

Keith O

Since the aluminum pans are prone to wear and striping bolt holes, look for a cast iron oil pan from an earlier Cub Cadet "K" series engine. If it is a 10 hp engine you need a flat pan from a 10 hp. If it has a deep sump (12, 14, 16 hp), a pan from a 12, 14, or 16 hp will work and they interchange as long as they are from an engine used in a Cub Cadet.