Archive through May 23, 2012

[digger]

Matt S.
2 sure ways to tell if your PTO needs help is to run it like normal and when it starts doing as you say, stop the machine, shut it down and spit or throw some water on it.
If it sizzles, it needs new meat.
The other is to look real close at the edge of the casting where it meets the disc and see if it's worn into the disc any at all.

If it's not worn, you might get by with re-adjusting it.

 

[hydroharry]

Jeremiah - thanks for the crediting on my post back on June 21, 1999 at 3:55 PM. Now, I can't get the archive vault to go back that far so how did you find it? Are you keeping a separate stash of goodies?

Daniel G - the 147 doesn't have the removable frame cover so it's more difficult to get at the pump and fix the trunion, and then make the final linkage adjustments. When you get ready be sure to plan a good amount of time. And one more thing, if you've been reading up on this in the FAQ, and clicked on the "more hydro information" and then "even more hydro information" you eventually got to some pictures of the pump currently in my 169. Yes, someone had painted it that awful green color at one point, but I fixed that all up before re-installing it.

 

[tflynn]

I finally got my 125 running today. I've been bidding on a PTO clutch on Ebay and always came up short. The one I got never got a bid so I contacted the seller and made him an offer. It didn't come with Anti-Rattle clips so I purchased them locally. I put them in place with electricans tape and everything slipped in place nicely. Everything worked good. It's got other issues but I'm in no hurry to fixed them because I use this only when my Dixon isn't working. Thanks again for everyones help.
Tom

 

[hydroharry]

Tom F - I remember the pics of your failed PTO clutch. When you have a chance post a couple new pics so we can see the replacement. Pics are always worth 10,000 words, and save my fingers as well.

 

[mjwhalen]

I hope this is the right place to ask a question dont want that jerk proctor on my case ! I have a 129 that keeps breaking drive shaft pins I replace the front and back yokes and drive shaft with good used and same thing. I checked run out of the fly wheel its seems fine.I sure hope i dont have to replace the hole drive line new its pricy . Plaese if anyone has a idea let me know. Thanks Mike

 

[ralbert]

M. Whalen.....starting out with a statement like that, not sure you deserve an answer. Yeah, you do have to follow the rules around here, but respect for the site, it's members and especially the moderator is a requirement.

Started trying to remove the steering wheel of my 4 digit "O" today, not an easy task this time.

 

[wshytle]

Mike-

Breaking drive pins is somewhat common in the 1x9 series but breaking them all of the time isn't. Either you're shifting too quickly or there's something wrong in the drive line of the tractor. The correct pins or dowels are hardened and take quite a bit of abuse before breaking. The only way I know of to end your problem is adding a flex disc set-up like the quiet lines to the front of your driveshaft eliminating the pin and coupler altogether.

You also might want to be careful talking about that "jerk proctor". He has special buttons and doesn't mind pushing them.

 

[jchamberlin]

Harry Bursell: Yes, I keep a stash of what I consider "goodies" arranged by topic for future reference. I kept more when I first started visiting this site. Funny thing is, I usually forget I have them saved when I'm having difficulty, but they're great for helping others on occasion.

Although I have a collection of posts, there many more that I wish I had saved because it can be astonishingly difficult sometimes to find posts you know exist using the search function.

Edit: Mike Whalen: What does the drive cup at the engine look like? It should have a single groove, and should NOT be worn into an "L" shape.

 

[kfreeman]

Mike Whalen,

On the forum for 3 days, have 3 posts. Wow!

Charlie was just getting you to post in the correct spot so that you could get the best help for your problem. The "lawn tractor" and "garden tractor" members may not have a lot of overlap.

He pays the bills to keep this site up and running for our benefit. You can get a lot of help on here. There is a lot of experience. But being disrespectful is not going to help.

 

[mhomrighausen]

Mike Whalen... First of all... WELCOME

... Now Second of ALL>>> I'm going to give you a little of me being a jerk instead of Charlie.

About breaking your roll pins. Are they roll pins or spirol pins? Are you using genuine Cub Cadet SPIROL pins or something purchased from a hardward store? Your profile states absolutely nothing abuot your mechnical abilities and you've provided us with none of such information about that or any extra informatin such as some of the other members ofhere have asked from you. PICTURES help trmendously if you can't/won't put into words what information you're requiring to solve your problem.

NOW... A couple fo years ago my local Cub Cadet/CASEIH dealer didn't have the correct spirol pins and suggested going to a local industrial supply company. Upon going there this company only had a spirol pin that didn't have as many coils and therefore wasn't as strong as needed. I tried two of theirs and they broke almost immediately. Having the correct type of spirol pin is extremely important. Being polite and respectful on this or any FORUM is also important. An apology helps mend things. Charlie is one heck of a fantastic gentleman as with the others on here. We learn from each other and grow from those things.

To All... I took today off to have my left knee checked over. Everyone have a safe and wonderful weekend. Let's also remember what this three day weekend is all about...

 

[dpfefferl]

My Cub 108, 3-speed suddenly developed a "sloppy" shifter problem. The shifter is loose and now it is very difficult to find the correct gears. Has anyone got any ideas as to the cause? Most importantly, how is the shift tower removed so that I can inspect the mechanism? Hopefully, it is not too difficult to repair this problem. I'm guessing that it is part #3 on the attached picture. I added another picture that shows a broken part 3.

 

[digger]

And besides!

I'm more of an A$$hole than I am a jerk!

 

[kmcconaughey]

David, looks like you been doing some research.

On a 108 the first step would be to remove the tunnel cover than the fenders to expose the top of the transmission where the shift lever is located. The SERVICE MANUAL should show how to remove the tunnel and fenders (the info is on page 2-25). Once you have the fenders off you would remove the 8 screws holding the shift assembly to the transmission and it should lift right off. Here's a LINK to some additional info on fixing the loose shifter. Also, while much less likely, it could be worn shift forks, parts 14 and 18 in the exploded view you posted. If that is the case you'll have to dig a little deeper into the transmission to repair it...

 

[dpfefferl]

Kraig: Thanks! I was hoping that I would not have to remove the fenders but that shouldn't be too difficult now that you have provided the service manual. Do you or another forum member now if item 3, the cup, is welded on? If I need parts, where can I find them? PS: This forum is worth its weight in gold; I've had this 108 since 1985 and I wish I had known about it before. Thanks, Dave

 

[mgwin]

Rick A.,

Did you remove the nut first?

Just kidding! Removing a steering wheel can be a pain some times. If you haven't already, spray it about twice a day with PB blaster for about a week or two. If the original nut is not messed up, get a regular nut (with the correct threads) and screw it down on the shaft leaving about 3/16 space between it and the steering wheel. Sit on the tractor and push up on the wheel with your knees, and at the same time hit the nut with a hammer. It should pop loose after a few licks. Hope this helps if you haven't tried it already.

By the way; nice tractor!

 

[kmcconaughey]

David, the cup should be welded to the lever. The part #3 in the exploded view is the lever and cup as a unit.

 

[thoffman]

Charlie,

 

[jbaker]

David P heres a few pics of one I recently got rid of.
Sponsers and the Classifieds here should get you all you will need

 

[fcurrier]

This is kind of for Marlin and Kraig:

Kraig: Thanks to your directions I'm dangerous, again. My resized pics kind of slithered over into Documents. JackieO is embaressed about having her pic posted without a front grille (kind of like me without my upper plate removed).
Marlin: This showed up today. Shadow found her first and I thought she'd broken every bone in the little things body. Come to find out, Shadow didn't really close her mouth on it. Miss Kitty is alive and well in the Cubhouse, as I write this. I don't know if she'll stay here or not, but she seems very comfortable being around people and resting on my nice new seat that got attached to Matthew, our 149 "keeper". Did I time out, yet?

Forgive the JD suicide knob? Matthew is on a course to become the most incorrect CC here.

 

[elamott]

TILLER QUESTION:
I have a 129 with a hydraulic lift and a rear tiller. The tiller does a great job, but the thing that I would the change to increase the amount of lift that it has. It appears that in order to have it go deep enough when tilling, it is dragging when I lift it up. Has anyone changed anything to increase the travel from down to up.
Any comments greatly appreciated
Earl LaMott