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Archive through May 23, 2004

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Kraig,
THanks for the dozer blade info. I just ordered one from R.F. Houtz. I should be seeing my pal in the brown truck in a few days. Then it's time to play in the dirt. i've got a lot of fill to level out. Is there any tricks to setting one of these blades up? It's a used blade. If anything is worn what would it be?
Dan M
 
Anthony-
Welcome to the forum!

I for one would be interested in seeing pictures of that cable plow.
 
Steve Blunier,

Thank you for the hydraulic relief valve noise diagnosis. It's hard to pinpoint where the buzz comes from - I thought it was from the implement lift valve body, but it must be from the hydro as that's where the bypass valve resides.

Next question is how can I make it quiet? As stated before, all system pressures are right at book values so I don't want to change spring preload. Would slight remachining of the valve "piston" be a good idea? I don't have my manual handy (I'm at work) and I don't remember what this part looks like, but I think it resembles a flat-ended piston. By machining a slight conical taper on the end, or radiusing the edges, etc. have an effect on noise?

Have never done anything like this before so need some words of wisdom from your (or anyone elses) experience in applied fluid mechanics.

Thanks.
 
PSA

The 15th RED POWER ROUND UP is coming up, June 24,25,26, 2004 at Mt. Pleasant, Iowa (Same site as the 2001 RPRU).
You can register on-line by emailing to [email protected]
In the subject line refer to "RPRU Registration"
Include your name, address, phone number, model(s), and year(s).
Serial number is optional.
Don Martindale and Mike Silberhorn are in charge of the Cub Cadet corral.

HOUSING Rooms can be reserved in private homes. Contact Bev Hamm at [email protected] or call 319 385-2577
 
Kraig-

My loader-mutt spindles weren't 'modified' from anything- I fabbed 'em out of thin air, 1/2" 1020 plate, 2 new trailer spindles, and (of course) some cardboard...

I'm in Alexandria (again) if you can't find the pix, I'll re-post 'em when I get back home on Thursdayish...
 
19077.gif
 
Dave K2, I can find them, just haven't had time to look today. I'll have to find 'em tomorrow morning. I was thinking you did kind of like Nate and added supports to the side of them. I likely would have known better when I saw the photos. Thanks for the info. I do have this photo I took of it at WFM SB 2004.
19079.jpg
 
Eric- look back at my driveline mods posts- you'll see that when I use bolts, I turn them down to close tolerance with the shaft and yoke. In mine, I rearrange the engine coupler- I eliminate the cross-pin, install a short stub of 5/8 shaft in the coupler, put the rag-joint cast yoke on the stub, and install a nice U-joint system on the rear-end of the driveshaft. Mine are all hydros, so it doesn't necessarily apply to gear-jammers, but I drill all my pin holes to 0.250, and then make my bolt-pins to something like 0.2499... they're tight fit. I also make the pins so that when you tighten the allen-head, it clamps into the driveshaft extra-firm, for no play. If you have the slightest play, enough shock will occur to shear a pin in three. In that respect, the spi-roll pin is superior, as it's made of wrapped spring-steel- it's actually 'larger' than the hole, and is compressed when driven in, and has a higher shear-strength once installed. In my couplers, I use the spi-roll pin up at the engine end (where the re-worked coupler-stub mates to the rag-joint yoke), and use the allen-head pin-bolt things on the U-joints. The U-joints come with keyways and set-screw holes- on mine, I made a concentric drilling tool (by center-boring a bolt in the lathe), then I drilled the driveshaft (it needs to be shortened a tad to accept the heavy-duty U-joint) to accept the pin. The hydro's input shaft pin-hole has always been okay for me...

Wyatt- If that 1100 sets sail, drop me a note, and I'll string a cable across the river and snag it when it goes by... Seein's how you called dibs, I'll let 'ya have it, but I'll need to liberate the nosepiece and hood from it... Travis won't send me one!

Digger- cool tow-behind mower! Think I'll copy your work, but probably use bigger wheels...
 
Kraig- Yep, that's the one! The spindle is about 1.5" gross diameter, and it runs on something like a 1" and 1.125" bearing set... all standard trailer-stuff. I got the spindles at Farm & Fleet, but Surplus Center, Champion Trailer, and Northern Hydraulic have 'em too. I bought matching spindles (5 on 4.5, I think), and those are 4.80x8 wheels shot with old 16-6.50x8's. When all's said-and-done, these spindles might end up on the Diesel thing, and wearing 18x6.50x8's.

Note that I haven't added steering arms to either right-or-left sides- in a few weeks, I'll be fabbing the steering-arm segments, and they'll be operated by two hydraulic cylinders- likely 2" diameter rams with 1" rods and 5" stroke. Valve is a Char-Lynn 9ci/turn steering valve robbed from a boneyard machine of unknown origin. Had I the opportunity to do this again, I would've used a 4.5ci/turn valve with short steering column that Surplus Center's got advertised... and just one double-ended (balanced) steering cylinder mounted about where the tie-rod sits. Mebbie for the Diesel...
 
Hey Digger, thats a great looking trail mower. I would be buying one of those right now if I hadn't found the forum and got help from yall.
 
Cap'n Kirk- The buzzing of a relief/bypass at low flow-levels is not an unusual trait, and in most cases, it's a nature-of-the-beast. Does the buzzing subside when you throttle it up? If so, attempting to re-machine the valve will yield no positive (and likely some negative) results.

Those valves are typically just a spring pressing on a flat disk, or a piston device. Inside the bore is a hole where high pressure comes in (at the center of the bore), and relief flow exits (somewhere around the periphery, or sometimes through the disk or piston. When pressure comes in, it acts on the high pressure port surface, and eventually, it overcomes the spring enough for fluid to pass to the relief.

The relief pressure is a pretty basic thing... you figure out the spring pressure, and divide that by the high pressure hole's surface area (providing that the piston is capping off this hole... sometimes they use a different, but kinda cagey design)... but when there's enough fluid-pressure acting on enough piston-surface to overcome the spring, you'll get flow.

In a purely hydraulic world, once pressure reaches a certain point, it'll flow pretty constantly... unless you request flow volume (and pressure) to operate your hydraulic accessory... if volume required is high enough, pressure will fall, and the relief/bypass will close.

But in your case, you're in an idling condition, so the bypass is simply allowing flow to return to tank, so you don't get a hydraulic 'stall'. (read up on closed-center and open-center hydraulic systems for more info). When you're idled down, the pump's not going to create a perfectly smooth flow, so the bypass valve will oscillate open-and-shut resulting from a combination of low flow, and also variations due to charge pump's design and flow smoothness- they're not perfect. In this respect, some oscillation at low rates is just nature-of-the-beast.

If it oscillates at HIGHER speeds, it's time to look into the situation. Most times, it's a situation of blocked suction filter (causing cavitation), or an air leak in the suction line (drawing air into your hydraulic system), or a little moisture (becoming steam!), or a worn pump or valve causing goofy operation or cavitation.

Personally, I haven't had one of these Sundstrand hydrostats apart- most everything I work on is either substantially larger, or very small (electrohydraulic, with a 150bar accumulator)... but my guess, and my experience with my hydros, is that you're seeing nature-of-the-beast.
 
Hello
I have another question, the mower deck I have has a number 421u111 on it, would the 42 indicate It is a 42 inch deck?
thanks

charlie
 
hello
Thanks folks with your help I ordered a new belt from Madson today and the man said I should have it by friday. thanks again I hate mowing with a 22 inch push mower.

Charlie.
 
Dr. Kamp,

Thank you for a thorough diagnosis. I appreciate the detail in your explanation.

The sound is only present at idle speeds. At around 1500 rpm, it goes away. At cold conditions, right after start-up, it's quiet. Only after hydro fluid warms does the buzzing begin.

I'll live with it, but it detracts from the nice, muted exhaust stack beat that only a Kohler with a cheater cam makes at 900 rpm. Now I have to dismount and stand in front of the grille to hear the music.

Thanks again Dave!
 
David k could that be a slight adjustment of the hydro linkage as if you removed the unit it,s self and adjust the hydro till the noise goes away steve b told me how to adjust mine.they will make a lot of noise some times for just a slight adjustment even though it goes in neutral ok!
 
Hi David! mine acts same as yours... I imagine there's a few others that do.

Just got done reading your K301 stuff... thinkin' I might duplicate your build. If you were to do it over, would you do anything different?
 

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