Archive through May 23, 2004

[aaytay]

Bryan-
Other than replacing it for a different one like Wyatt assumably did, why would the tunnel cover be taken off [by Dan or anyone else] if it were just a resto?

<font size="-2">With Dan's stuff, I know I'm safe calling it a "resto"! ;-)</font>

 

[bmcmeen]

Alrighty, do I hear Sawzall anyone???

Art -

Ummmm - painful attention to detail?? Replacing it because the original is in poor shape??

 

[kmcconaughey]

Art, because there <strike>could be</strike> will be rust in that seam.

 

[dfrisk]

BRYAN - Have You ever seen what Don V. starts with building a Puller? TRAVIS - Torch is too messy. "PLASMA CUTTER".... I wish the $$$$ of steel would go down, I have a few projects I'd like to make. It's almost getting to the point it's cheaper to Buy New than to build stuff Yourself anymore!

 

[tschweizer]

Yeah, I finally broke down and bought a plasma.

 

[mmasheris]

Travis how high did the river get?Hope the sandbags worked.Maybe get the axles back in the 982 this weekend.

 

[tschweizer]

We had to pump the water out that leaked through the bags. It was up on the bags at least 2ft. Me and another guy ended up working on the backup pump for several hours.

 

[till]

Question...
I greased my deck spindles about a month ago and not they are getting noisy. Yes I will grease before my next mowing. Is this common or am I using too cheep of a grease??

The manual stated before each mowing give it a couple of pumps, I'm thinking of going back to that.

 

[aaytay]

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

Yeah, I finally broke down and bought a plasma.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

Now Travis can cut a neat little plate out of those narrow frames and weld it back when he's done.

Just what I like to see, a parts-man with a heart!

 

[rleo]

The pulley behind the PTO clutch has been chattering real bad. Lots of play, both laterally and front to back. I’ve been ignoring it. Yesterday the belt finally came off the pulley and jammed between the muffler and the bracket that holds the starter generator. Belt is shot.

AT THE RISK of revealing how truly stupid I am and am ridiculed with "where do I pour in the gas?" comments, or, endure “read the manual” responses (yes, I own the manual), AND BEFORE I attempt to take something apart that has frustrated even the best on this forum, please allow me to ask this question:

Am I missing something simple to eliminate the chatter or is my pulley worn and will I need to pull the clutch off and replace the pulley? I assume there’s a woodruff key in there and that its probably worn as well.

 

[aaytay]

Ray-
Two words:
set screws!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Ray, the set screws that hold the pulley on have come loose. My #1 125 has the same problem, but I quite using it before I ruined the belt. )

 

[aaytay]

Belt? Heck, I'd be more worried about the crank keyway....

 

[rleo]

Art/Kraig:
Yeah, I was lookin at that but think the screws may have backed out and are now somewhere under the emerging corn crop. Will visit CaseIH Saturday for replacements. . .

 

[dkamp]

Jim E- You're not the first guy to deal with a sloppy axle-pivot... I've dealt with 3 lately. In all cases, it was a matter that the frame's bushing segment had become vacant from it's position, causing the axle's pivot pin to slop around in (and wear out) the hole a bit. The solution is to remove whatever's left of the pin, clean it all up, and either find a trashed frame that can donate a bushing, or make one up on the lathe. Usually, they're held in with just a little tack weld... probably the reason why they break off. Make a new one, stick in on, weld it down good, using the pin and axle to determine alignment. If the pin's really bad, either find a replacement, or build it back up with good welding rod (7018), and grind/turn it to a reasonable fit, and put the whole thing back together.

 

[dfrisk]

RAY - Also check Your pulley where it crimps into the hub. I've had the pulley & PTO drive cone spin on the hub before so I weld them up whenever I have them off. When the pulleys break loose from the hub the engine still runs, but You can't run PTO powered equip. or restart the engine if You shut it off. On higher HP engines I'd use a longer key in the keyway to save possible wear on the crankshaft keyway like Art says.

 

[dberkstresser]

Howdy folks,
Changing the subject--my local CC dear (45?) years said the problem with my 1650 hydro is all in the shift linkage. He said the hydros never wear out. What do you guys think? I already welded the trunion plate.

I had a Kohler dealer tell me he has not had good luck with K341 carb rebuilds, so he sold me a new Walbro. My K341 carb has wear where the throttle plate meets the air passage. Is it beyond help?
Thanks, guys, love the site, but my 1650 is shaking itself apart.

PS: No floods at 160 feet in CT, but I'm waiting for that 300 foot ocean tidal wave.

 

[digger]

David B.
The hydro creep thing is covered above in the FAQ's

YOUR DEALER IS A MORON!
Take that carb back! It's junk! Send me yours and I'll rebuild it forya for nothin! Throttle shaft and all!

Loosen up your ISO rubber motor mounts a little and that shake will weaken a little, It's a 16, It's gonna shake. Love it or give it to me!

 

[wcompton]

Thanks for the comments on the frame of the project tractor.

The frame's a 147 frame I bought from Ray Weaver, I removed the tunnel cover and the electric lift arm. The short tunnel's from who know's what, but it was nice enough that it got spared the gas axe. The 147's tunnel cover was removed just by drilling the spot welds out, reason being that it makes a nice place to plug weld the cover back on. The cover I bought from Travis was removed by way of chopping the frame down to the smallest pieces remaining attached ot the tunnel, a small cut with the sawzall on either side of the spot welds just enough so that the pieces can be tapped out with a dead-blow hammer. Then the remaining small pieces of steel (barely larger than the diameter of the spot weld) was ground off. All this was done to avoid putting any more heat into it than I had to, so I wouldn't have to straighten it after it was off.

Could I have just cut a frame and made it like a 147, sure could have with a lot less trouble. BUT I guess at the time I planned it I wanted to be a stickler about "all factory parts", plus I didn't have to worry about the welds on where the frame's cut, no excuses for a shoddy welding job, no matter what it has for a weld, that's how they left the factory. Plus the only welding I'll be doing is hidden on the underside.

Right now it's all mocked up so I can plumb hard fuel lines between the tank, fuel pump, and carb. I ended up ordering the wrong fittings last week so I'll have to wait for the right ones to come in before I start bending tube.

 

[wdeturck]

The clutch on the M&W started to make noisrs so I pulled it out and the bushing on the clutch pulley is worn. I went to the auto parts store and they couldn't find a replacement. I can get one at McMaster-Carr for $ .60 plus shipping. Any one got bushing numbers so I can get one at the parts store? it is .750 ID x .875 OD x .750 lg. Thanks.