Archive through March 23, 2010

[dtanner]

Dennis Frisk
I used to work at a fiberglass plant where we had clear epoxy resins. So I will take the amount of tape needed for the meter to work and set the strip size needed and set in resin. It will never come off. water paper can be used to shape and clarify.So I just need enuf for 10,wonder what the strip is?

 

[mfrade]

Don, those tachs work on light pulses. The strip reflects the light back to the sensor and the unit calculates pulses per second times 60 = rpm. You can use a spot / strip of shiny white paint and achieve the same results. Aim the unit at a flourescent lamp and read the rpm! I don't remember the expected output.. crs! I think it's 720 or 740 maybe.. If it didn't give us the expected readout then we knew it was time for a calibration! As long as what your aiming at can reflect light back to the unit, it'll read rpm.

 

[jbaker]

Kraig thanks for the explanation, Too bad I dont have any po history on this as I pulled it from here

The rustline you see is from the rightangle gear unit for the tillar. The cover does have a plug its just offset out of the picture

 

[dtanner]

Mike Frade
thanks for that info, I have some red and white strips here for the side of a tractor trailer. I can now make all the strips I need. Is there a method to recalibrate them?I will test it st my lights and see what it gives me. This place is great...

 

[dfrisk]

DONALD - The strips I got with my tach were exactly like the ones you have, the red/white stripes for trailer.

I think the test Mike told about gets you 3600 RPM, 60 cycles per second times 60 seconds.

If Your in part of Canada with 50 cycle electricity, then 3000 is the right answer.

 

[mfrade]

Don T., When we found them out of calibration or suspected they might be, we sent them in to the manufacturer.

Denny, I don't remember the number being that high. I don't believe it was over 2K. Dang,CRS! I'm working in Wilmington,DE this week. When I get back to New England I'll see if one of the techs can run the meter and I'll record the reading.

 

[twible]

I bought a QA42 snow blower for my 1250 ande I am wondering if there is anything to do to improve the snow blowing like adjusting the speed of the throttle cable or change the size of the pullies?
Terry

 

[jbaker]

Terry if you have the stock pulleys on there and your 1250 is running good, that will be enough to throw farther than you need, with that said some people will decrease the blower side pulley to increase speed but i have not needed to myself (this is all stock)

 

[rcrim]

i just wanted to thank everybody for the info that i have received. this web site is the best and so nice to meet people with allot of knowledge and humor. keep up the great work friends.

 

[wshytle]

I was looking into mounting the lift of a 3pt on my 1250 and discovered it was made after a certain s/n and requires studs rather than the pivot rod. I am not well versed here and would love to see a picture of one mounted. If your s/n is 616146 or above with the lift installed it should have all of the correct hardware/studs. I assume all others have the mounted spacers and call for the pivot rod. I checked the parts lookup which show the studs as well as the pivot rod but I can't find information on or pictures of the spacers. They're not shown on the frame illustration either. Here's what I have...

The pitiful arrows point to where the spacers are on other WFs. Thanks to any and all....Wayne

 

[wshytle]

I just found the "Frankenstein" studs available for sale but would still like to see a picture if anyone has one.

Thanks....Wayne

 

[bnolte]

Rob,
I would borrow or buy a set of micrometers to measure the bore and the crank journal before deciding how far to go. In general, if the bore isn't more than .004 out of round or tapered, I would clean it up with a light hone. You can get service replacement rings that are .004 over, and use them with a standard piston. If the rod journal is worn more than one or two thousandths or so under, consider getting the crank ground to .010 under, but you will need to buy a matching undersized rod. While you are in there, check the camshaft for wear, paying particular attention to the points lobe.

I would cap it off by lapping the valves, making sure the head is flat, and putting it back together with a new head gasket.

How far you want to go with an engine refresh or rebuild is up to you. You have to balance available time and funds against how much and how hard you will be using the tractor. A complete overhaul, with professional machine work and new or fully reconditioned internal parts might be justified for a tractor you depend on to cut 5 acres of grass every week, but maybe not so for one that is used to run a rototiller a few times a year.

 

[bmoir]

I have a "frankenstein" 100 that I pieced together from a 126 and my donor 100 that I used to restore my main tractor, the 100. Does anyone have any experience using a modern "floating" mower deck on a narrow frame?

 

[digger]

Wayne S.

 

[fcurrier]

Gather 'round, kids, it's school time.
We don't have frankenstein bolts. We have STUD SHAFT bolts and SHOULDER MOUNTING bolts. The stud shaft bolts are used with the newer (1250, etc.) sleeve hitches and the shoulder mounting bolts are for the quick attach mounting.
I just paid the tuition, got my diploma, and can't be poofed because I taught.

 

[jbaker]

Charlie are those zurks stock and if so are they only on that type of mount?

 

[digger]

Jeff B.
I added those years ago on my old 1450.

 

[fcurrier]

Jeff: My question, too. Either Charlie's trying to save 1,000 words, or this is another test.

Bullseye!

 

[jbaker]

Charlie did you ever notice a difference? I plan on lathering my pin up with anti sieze when I put it on the 149 which I hope happens tommorrow

 

[jbliler]

782-KT-17 people,,, Is there a need to retorque the head bolts after a warm up? Am not seeing a listing in the rebuild book for this. Sure were a lot of cheap cost cutting going on on these engines! But is there a builder going as heavy-duty as the old k series singles? Things like forever main bearings and total rebulidability. Thease kt's should not be so spendy to replace.