Archive through March 29, 2013

[sconley]

I believe the pic is showing where a bypass button should be sticking up but is not. If the button is stuck in the down position what is the remedy? You can see my efforts at WD-40.

 

[balbrecht]

Scott C,
Those buttons will eventually come up, but I've found that if they are really stuck down it helps to be able to get at them so you can work and press them every so often until whatever you are using for lubricant works down enough (I just use a drop of hytran which is what the fluid is in the tranny). It may be time to pull the rear end out, which would also give you room to replace the release flapper and clean everything up good. It's not a bad job, six bolts, the brake linakge and the hydrostatic control linkage. It will also allow you to repair the trunion if it needs it (and most do if they haven't been done before). You might be able to get a finger in to reach the buttons if you take the fenders off.

https://www.ihcubcadet.com/IHCCFAQ/HydroProblemsC.htm

 

[fcurrier]

Can you reach in and even feel the buttons?

Brian: Let's not get too involved, here. Let's get the rear wheels turning. :0

Scott, you have the floor. (It's Town Meeting season in Northern Maine).

)

 

[sconley]

I can just reach the buttons. I am assuming they are coming through the middle of the two hex heads seen in the pic? I will keep trying to put some pressure on them and get some movement.
I am dressed up for a family event (wife made me) so can't do it right now. At least I can't get caught trying.

 

[tbdavis]

Scott - has relief valve issues a while back and I just removed them (already had fender off) and just shot the crap out of em with lube and kept playing with them till they operated freely. O-ring kits are readily available if you need them and CC Specialties (sponsor above) sells a triuunion fix that's very reasonably priced. And, just to repeat what someone else said, that little metal "flapper" doesn't attach to anything other than the hydro dump lever. Good luck with your new machine.

 

[sconley]

I was considering taking a long thin metal device similar to an old screwdriver and tapping on the side of the hex head. I would do this with gentle taps on the head of the screwdriver. My hopes were that with the wd-40 would loosen it up and with some vibrations the buttons might extend. I could drop the unit but that is pretty involved and I will save that for last resort.

 

[sconley]

As much as I appreciate all of the input I do have to leave for right now. Once I get my noose off (otherwise known as a tie) I will get back at it and try to get some movement using some of the ideas. Removing the fender is an intriguing idea if it gives access.

 

[fcurrier]

When you get back we'll be here. Removing the fenders isn't a major problem (it involves years of rust, especially on the 4 footplate bolts/screws).
You're on the right track IMHO with the idea of soaking the buttons and tapping on the valve head. If you hadn't said that when you got the engine running that it sounds "sweet" I don't think we'd be going here. Howsomever, here we are. One more thing: When you get your necktie off (I'm choking, just thinking about it), can you assure us that the driveshaft is actually turning the pump? That's a necessity for the pressure to pop those buttons back up. We can do this.

 

[hydroharry]

Scott C - I think you may be getting a little ahead of yourself with some of the details. In normal operation the buttons will pop back up on their own once the engine is started and the hydro lever moved to either F or R. In your case there is still a question of whether the drive shaft is rotating. Please make sure it's rotating before going any farther. I've never had any luck tapping on the relief valves themselves, and on a 123 you can't access them from the top like wide frames, so you'll be lucky if you can even touch the edge with your tool. If your drive shaft is rotating then the next thing I'd do is make sure the shaft inside the pump is also rotating. I'm not quite sure how you can access seeing the rear of the pump on a 123, but I think there is a rear cover on that seat support that you can remove and see part of the pump, and the shaft sticking out of it. With your engine running that shaft should be rotating. If it isn't rotating then I think you have a sheared roll pin on the drive shaft coupling connector. If the hydro pump shaft is rotating on the rear of the pump then your next effort should be getting the relief valves to pop up. One method has been to run the engine and quickly move the hydro speed control lever back and forth. This works some times. Another is to jack the rearend up so the wheels are off the ground and do the same thing with the speed control lever. You must be careful doing this since the tractor will lean side to side and one of the rear tires can catch the ground and if the pump engages the tractor will take off on you. If these methods don't work then you're left with splitting the rearend from the tractor so you can get at the hydro relief valves. And this is where a picture is worth 10,000 words.

under edit - Frank, you beat me to the typing. And I don't know how you did that since you're choking just thinking about a necktie. Get to work on that 169!!!

 

[bwittman]

Frank,

Huh?

What did I say?