Archive through March 29, 2013

[rwoods]

Hydraulic question; How difficult is it to add hydraulic lift to my 169? What can I expect to pay for the system and parts?

 

[tbdavis]

Mike - it's actually ok to eat potato chips AND lick your fingers as long as your wife doesn't see you do it.

 

[cmcclain]

Reggie, check under the center drive-line check-cover. I believe most of the 169's/149's without hydraulics at least had ported pumps installed from the factory to make adding hydraulics really easy.

 

[cmcclain]

Oh, hey Terry! How's the family of Cubs?

 

[rwoods]

I believe it does have the ports for the system. I just didn't know how difficult a job it is or how costly it may be.

 

[aaytay]

Mike-
Look in the tank with a flashlight. If you have that much "crud" in the carb, you have to figure out where it's coming from. Even if it's a valve/coil/condesor/something else problem.

There is either crud in the tank, crud in your fuel can, or the fuel line bushings are breaking down. Either way you need to address the issue, then move on to see if that resolves your running issues.

 

[jbaker]

Reggie
on a difficulty level, if you can change your cork gasket you can do this,, it,s rather simple really. Also I will Email you the instructions.

Cost for parts vary but I guess $100 might do in some parts, check our sponsers.

 

[nbartee]

I just ran a compression test on my B&S twin L head 18hp and got 95 psi on the right cylinder, 90 psi on the left. Sound about right? Can't find any published data on this.

 

[tbdavis]

Conner - good to see you on here! Hope your projects are coming along and hope to make it back over your way sometime soon. Gonna post some pics later today of my Original refurb later today in the restoration/refurb section. Please chime in with any suggestions cause I need em!

 

[sconley]

Hydro Harry, I missed your post the other day. Thanks for additional info about upgrading my Walbro. It's also good to know there are some "locals".
Here is where I am at. Since given the 123 I had no idea what worked and what did not. My goal was to make it run as inexpensively as I can. If everything worked then i would put some money into it such as the Carter. This will be a working unit and unlikely to ever look like some of the gems on this forum.
I did get the Kohler running with the carb rebuild. Motor sings! Unfortunately the hyrostatic does nothing. I jacked up the rear and worked the control fwd and rev. Wheels did not turn. I really have no idea how to troubleshoot this unit. It was dry of oil and I put a fresh filter and hy-tran in it. Im thinking it was ran dry. Is there any hope?

 

[dtanner]

Scott conley

You could just have a stuck hydro release valve. You will have to do the reverse to ahead back a forth quickly to see if it will respond . A none ported hydro won`t cost many $ if it is toast. It is the ported pumps that can run some extra $ to get.

 

[sconley]

Don T. Thanks, I will give it a try. Shouldn't I hear the engine governor kick in when engaging hydro and then kicking out when in neutral? I also have a real dumb, newbie question. I'm not sure I have everything in the right position despite reading the user manual. First, I don't know what the little lever is on the right side just below the seat. Is this for disengaging hydro when pushing the unit? Mine doesn't seem to be connected to anything. Might have broken and left the hydro in "disengaged" mode?

 

[dtanner]

Scott ; the governor will only be heard if there is a load transfer. Setting on the seat by your right foot there should be a small lever that if all the parts to it are the , moving it will dump the hydro pressure so you can move the tractor with out starting the engine. It would have to have the hydro valves with the release **** on top. there is a flapper and pin needed to make it work as designed. Charlie sells the parts you would need if yours is missing some.

 

[dtanner]

You might be missing these parts !

 

[sconley]

DanT, I will get my mower deck off today and have a look to see if that is my problem. I appreciate the information. I am excited to make this little unit go.

 

[jbaker]

Don, I think on Scotts 123 it this piece

Sold at CCSpecialties

 

[sconley]

Jeff P and Dan T. The part is Jeff's post is what I have. When I look from the rear of the tractor and move the lever the part shown rotates up and down but it is not connected to anything on the hydro. Unless I greatly misunderstand (a very distinct possibility)the part must connect to something on the hydro?

 

[fcurrier]

Scott Blue 123: Either your driveshaft isn't turning the pump or your relief valves are stuck in the down position. (I'm not ready to admit that the no hydro oil when you went to drain it scares me). That "flapper" piece is connected to nothing but the lever, as Don's post/pic. All it does is push the buttons on the relief valves down. Since it seems you've gotten far enough to see it from the rear you should also be able to see the relief valve buttons. If you can't, they're stuck down. Come back?

Under Edit: The relief valve subject is a mixed blessing with me. The first 125 I bought I got for $50 because it wouldn't move. That was almost 14 years ago and it started my fever.

 

[thoffman]

Scott/Jeff/Don,
If the model number ends in a even number (but not a zero), you just let the clutch out.

 

[proessler]

Scott, click on to CC Parts Look up ^^^above , those images/ Pics of trans & trans controls might help connecting all your dots. Also go to "Manual Topic" for Operator & Service Manuals for more images...