Archive through March 08, 2009

[kmcconaughey]

Mike M., a guy on here was building one, or rather modifying one for working on Cubs. Interestingly his name was Michael M., anyway here's the links to his threads. I doubt this is the one you saw but thought I'd point it out.

LINK 1

LINK 2

THIS LIFT might be the one you saw.

Steve, very nice loader tractor!

To all the new guys, WELCOME!

 

[pthorne]

Hey guys, it's been a while!

I spent Saturday evening toying w/ the old 1650!

Put a fresh battery in it and tried cranking it. Well I removed the air cleaner and played with it for a few and finally got it to crank. Well the float was stuck and gas was pouring onto the garage floor. I took the carb apart and the float was stuck to the bottom of the bowl. Cleaned out the bowl and the float and it RUNS!!

I managed to run it for about an hour Sunday. I need to get a tune up kit for it and change the oil/hydro before I do much more with it.

But I do have a question. I know the motor mounts are shot. But would that cause a knocking sound a low RPM's? At WOT the knocking goes away and it runs strong. But if I let it idle at a lower throttle setting it knocks pretty good. Any ideas?

 

[mtoney]

Chris B, the cub cadet hydro is a Sunstrand hydrostatic pump. They where this way up thru the early MTD years on the garden tractors. Newer ones I have seen the Hydro Gear brand hydros in, not sure who does the smaller lawn tractor hydros. Cheers Mike

 

[dtanner]

More priming here was going on today. I`ll need some help to get the rearend up for primer. i`am thinking of a date to paint this all.

and to think new paint will soon be on my 129 loader. Just trying to keep good thoughts.lol

 

[mstetar]

Don T how did you get the tank mount bolts put of your shroud? mine were welded in!, also does anyone know what size blots hold the shroud and tin in place on a k-321, some of mine were missing when i got it and being torn appart so long,a few were lost in the process.

Now i got another question about paint, should primer go on bare metal thicker than the paint or vise versa?

 

[mstetar]

And speeking of paint and primer i got a little bit done myself today.

 

[dtanner]

Matt Stetar (Mstetar) I ground of the heads (flattened ) carage bolts and welded them where they need to go.
Parts look up for your cub will list the sizes of bolts used.I used a lot of sandwitch bags and a note . Everything i took apart is bagged and labled where it goes on the 129.
Matt i`am sanding washing with wax and grease remover , priming sanding and painting. there are other methods i`am sure but this is the way i did this so far. Good luck. Later Don T

 

[mstetar]

yah i baged all my bolts after the motor, when i first tore into the motor it was in another garage, and that was all i was planning on doing... but then i decided well its already appart!... that pretty much leads up till now, Reassembly! like you im also trying to think positive, thats why i started to put the tin on the motor.
now i sand blasted my parts then primed then paint, ive never sanded in between, whats the point??? isnt the primer enough for the paint to stick to? mine looks ok so far so well see!

 

[dfrisk]

DON TANNER - I hope I see some Yellow Thumbs in pictures in another couple weeks! Your making good process.

How's Your fiberglass repair coming?

MATT - All the shroud hardware is 1/4" course thread. You have to be careful where You put some of it too. On Don's picture of His primed parts the big cooling blower shroud uses real short bolts, maybe 1/2" long on the bottom and starter/generator sides. Would be the bottom and left sides in Don's picture. The bolt for the left or carb. side shouldn't be any longer than necessary either, it'll catch dirt & grass and block air flow. There's two tapped holes on the sides of the cyl. head also, also 1/4" but they can take up to 3/4" or 1" long bolts. The two holes above the grass screen on the blower housing have 1/4"-20 "Weld Bolts" spot-welded in from the factory and You can either do what Don says, replace with carriage bolts welded in or what I've done in the past is use a hex bolt and a nut to hold it in place, then install the gas tank bracket, then more washers & nuts. I grind the sharp corners off the heads of the bolts before I install them.

 

[dtanner]

Matt S <ive never sanded in between, whats the point???> Well i sanded between to get the high spots and correct any problems i might see while sanding the primer.


Dennis F , yellow and white will be painted soon, i have the rear end and axle and pto parts yet to prime to get them ready. i have to install the air dryer that i bought last year and make some drying racks out of some strapping i have her. I want to hang all but the rear end to paint.
The fiberglass dash will get done when its needed in the rebuild of the 129 loader and i still have to have the hydro foot control installed as well, so there is still lots to do here. I have a 104 for a friend that wants paint next and the my 1961 O that is in line also for fresh paint. retirement is great and busy lol . later Don T