Archive through March 04, 2013

[hydroharry]

Terry - I think Don T's message was for you not David. You need to make sure you're using a good and correct size Allen wrench. Best to use at least a T-handle type. Sometimes the heads feel stripped because they have crud in them. Try to clean them out with a wire and compressed air, but be careful if you have put rust buster fluid in the holes. As for drilling, I've heard of it but not sure about re-taping. Don't drill unless it's an absolute last resort, and then try to save the threads on the clutch.

(under edit - Kraig, Oh Great One, Keeper of the Photos - is there ever a winner in this match

)

 

[pfunk]

Terry, BTDT with the stripped setscrews. Try
here and see if it helps. I can't over stress how important it is for you to drill really slowly.

Hope this helps.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Hydro, ME!

 

[dtanner]

I just happen to be installing the PTO on my 125 ; and I have two styles here rebuilt and ready to install. Does it matter witch one I install. Here are the two I have ready.

There not getting any paint for this worker. I just need to find the small Allen screws to lock the first set of screws on the bearing

 

[dfrisk]

TERRY D. - Ahhh Stuck PTO clutch problems. There's been suggestions here of everything from wrappng a small link chain around them and YANKING them off with another CC, or just whipping the chain to pull them off. But I don't like things flying around my shop.

What I find works best is to use a small 2 or 3 jaw gear puller, similar to this, http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00946905000P?vName=Tools&cName=Mechanics&AutoTools&sName=Automotive%20Specialty%20Toolsmv=rr
And hold the jaws in the V-belt groove of the clutch with one hand, then turn the jacking bolt on the puller until it compresses the triangular shaped spring, then pushs the thrust button against the end of the crankshaft. You'll want to slide a small 3/8" drive socket, say a 1/2" or 9/16" over the end of the jacking bolt so the centering pin on it doesn't put a dent in the smooth surface of the thrust button, then continue turning the jacking bolt until the PTO drops off the end of the crankshaft. It will bring the whole clutch assembly, pilot bearing with ecccentric locking collar along with it. Then you can put the clutch in a vice to hold it securely while you work on getting it apart.

You should try using a slightly larger maybe metric allen wrench, maybe slightly ground to taper the very ends of the flats to remove the set screws first. If that fails you can drill them out starting with a 1/8" bit and going up slightly in bit size once you get a hole through them. Eventually they will become "un-locked" and you should be able to get them out. You might have better luck using "left hand twist drill bits, they may loosen them while drilling. I don't have any LH twist bits so have never tried it but heard it works good.

And yes, you can drill and tap the cast PTO hub for 5/16"-18 thread set screws. BT-DT... Works good, plus they use larger allen drivers so don't strip the hex as bad.

When you put the clutch back together, coat the outside of the pilot bearing outer race with anti-sieze, the inside of the bore of the PTO cast hub, and all three of the tapped holes for the set screws. Makes them come back off SO much nicer.

 

[wshytle]

Terry-

Don't give up yet. If you have a dental pick try and see if you can clean out any more debris from the set screw. Then you can put some heat to it. If you do it carefully it won't hurt anything and I use a propane torch, not acetylene. Direct the heat right at the screw area, not the entire pto. Your not out to get anything red hot...just heated well. If you have some penetrating oil the heat helps it get in the threads. Of course this is done easier with the engine removed but I've done it both ways. Also put your allen wrench on a bench grinder to sharpen it and take it back to more like new if it's rounded any. Grind a little at a time in order not to lose temper and dip it in water often. Work the wrench in the set screw well until it feels like you have a good bite then it will eventually let loose.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Don, the one on the right is closer to what was original equipment, the one on the left is a bit stronger. Use which ever one you prefer.

 

[hydroharry]

Don T - dang it, can you at least put some paint on those PTO's? Like Kraig said, the one on the right is correct for 125 era. But what he probaby should have also said is the one on the left should have Phillips head special screws and be used on a wide frame. I don't know why it would really be any stronger. I only see one triangular spring in each. (Kraig?)

Terry - just a supplement to Dennis' info. It might be possible to loosen and slide the basket pulley back so you can get at the locking collar on the back of the PTO bearing. And another thing, if you're going to remove the basket pulley after you have the clutch removed make sure you clean up the crank shaft. Any little burr will hold that basket pulley from coming off, and you'll end up needing a replacement pulley.

Kraig - you WIN!!!!!

 

[dtanner]

Thanks kraig

some one told me this sube frame will not work on a 125.

I would like to use this deck.I have no idea what the sub frame for this deck for my 125 would look like.

 

[hydroharry]

Don T - that's a nice looking deck from the wide frame series era. The QA assembly attached to that sub-frame is for a wide frame unit. If you change it to a QA for the a narrow frame the complete set up may work. It might be one you have to try it and see if it works once you change it.