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Archive through March 04, 2013

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Steve, Don: I'm not criticizing Denny (or either of you, or your comments), I just couldn't resist the opportunity I thought I saw to poke fun at Denny through Steve's innocent words. I'm like you Don, I always slow down and read Denny's posts (since he doesn't post pictures
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), and I enjoy them very much. It just seems that no one can be "right" on this forum very long before another loyal member "corrects" him or her. The self-correcting, truth-seeking, back-and-forth jibber/jabber is what a Forum is all about: (and while I'm on a soap box) something that a "threaded forum" fails to communicate well. I'm sure the "forums" in Greece, from whence the term derives, were far more chaotic. Just My Honest Opinion.
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Jeremiah and Don - speaking of the Greek Forum, when thy tongue loosens I worry the Hammer of Thor and Thunder of Zeus may commeth.
 
Jeremiah - you should check your sources. They did have North/South games.
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(or maybe that was the Romans)
 
Harry Bursell

Harry, it is fun to poke a little fun sometimes.Now you keep saying I`am up in the great white north. I think you should get out a globe and see just what line Nova Scotia sits on and then see what line you sit on.I bet your farther North than me.I know Charlie is waaaay up there
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Now the on topic; I want some info on the proper sub frame for the deck I want to use on my 125. I need to replace the choke cable and finish the install of the point saver this morning. I would like to post a few pictures of the sub frame to see if I`am using the correct one.I know Frank C said I need a pin on sub frame and well I have what I think he is talking about (I Hope). Seems every tractor I have I got with sub frames but not all had decks.More later Don T

Morning Denny ( you up yet ? )
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Can someone post a good pic of the correct throttle and choke cable routing on a 73 please?
And should they be painted or natural NOS finish?

And, is my engine supposed to be yellow? the one that is there is black.

Someone suggested I paint the clutch when I get it back together...yellow or white??

Thanks!!

Dave S.
 
WOW GUYS... I'm blushing! And Thanks for the kind words Steve. I've always enjoyed talking with you at PD's, RPRU's, and your e-mails. I always enjoy your projects you build & post here. The scale Midwest wagon hoist, #520 semi-mounted plow, etc. They all look and work great!

A lot of the great advice, but not all, for care & maintaining CC's Steve gives here I learned the hard way decades ago before Al Gore made the Internet. Yes, I've broke a few parts, but you'll NEVER see me post my mistakes here. I'll just tell you how to do it right.

Anyhow, I'll let you guys digress on your Greek Mythology before Charlie puts a stop to it!

BILL J. - Gerry Ide & I explained how to de-carb a Kohler here 3-4 yrs ago. Using straight water in a spray bottle, start & run the engine till it's warm, not hot, then with the engine running around 2000 RPM spray water into the carb intake, right down the carb throat. It's best to do this with the tractor outside because of carbon monoxide gas and all the bits of carbon deposits that will come flying out the exhaust outlet. 12-16 ounces of water is enough, one spray at a time so you don't kill the engine. The engine will sputter and almost die but let it recover before the next spray. It won't get all the carbon out but most of it. The flat head or side valve engines are more prone to developing carbon deposits because of the poor air/fuel mixture flow patterns in the combustion chamber. The deposits only accumulate where there is little mixture flow or turbulence. Every major tune-up is often enough, when the engine has taken it's 12-16 oz of water, pull the plug and inspect the combustion chamber, re-torque the head bolts per the manual, put a dab of anti-sieze on the new plug's threads & install it & torque it to spec, then change the points & condensor, change the engine oil and you're good to go. No new head gasket required, no chance of any hard bits of carbon getting stuck between the piston & cyl walls or wedging a ring tight in it's groove.

I did it to the K241 that ran 1400 hours 3-4 times throughout the years I ran it, and 1-2 times on the K301 in the 129 in the ten yrs after I rebuilt it.

35+ yrs ago, water injection was common on car engines to eliminate detonation due to the first generation vacuum controlled carburator emission controls, lean fuel/air mixtures & poor no-lead gas. As a side benefit people discovered that the combustion chambers had no carbon deposits in them when they pulled the heads.
 
David S., I would leave the choke and throttle cables natural. The engine should be yellow and the PTO clutch would be as Doug mentioned. I do not have a photo that shows cable routing but they should flow as naturally as possible. Being rather stiff they will basically "tell" you how they should route. The throttle cable, I believe, will run out under the battery box and cross over above the clutch shield then behind the coil then on over to the governor. The choke cable will come out on the left side of the pedestal route next to the battery then down behind the coil and then up to the carb/choke connection. Here's a photo from the 73,1x6/7 Operator's Manual of a 126/7. While it's not exactly the same it should be quite similar routing to the 73.

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Ok all, trying to pull off a NF pto today with NO luck. Allen heads are not lined up with the slots on the basket pulley and afraid to bang around much more. Been sprayed countless times and actually the pto will wiggle on the shaft a teeny bit so doesn't seem completely stuck. Before I break out a bigger hammer can someone share some advise on this before something goes badly wrong. Thanks
 
Terry Davis

Push in on the center button and turn the PTO in the basket till all the holes line up. WFM
 
Mine weren't lined up either. I used a 3 jaw puller to compress the button and rotated until they lined up. The wiggling may be a bad bearing if the screws aren't loose.
 
Kraig, I dunno, it kinda seemed to me that one or both of 'em should come out from under the tower through that 1/2 moon cut out in the c;utch shield....not???

Guess I shoulda mentioned that right off.

Giving the 1200 & blade a workout here this AM w/about 5-6" so far. The 1650 & QA42" does a fine job also!
Dave S.
 
Terry-

If you can get a hammer to the thrust button and tap on it you may be able to turn the pto a tad at a time with each tap with the other hand. The tap releases the tension for a split second and the pressure plates should turn. It's a little tricky method but I've gotten it to work more than once. If you can put pressure on the thrust button like Don mentioned it should release and allow you to align the holes with the slots in the basket pulley. Either way you need that alignment.
 
David S., they very well could come out through that half moon cut out... They do come out near that area on the model 70. Hopefully someone with a 73 or even a 72 will post. Here's a photo of the 70 from the Operator's Manual for the 70/100:

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I pulled apart my front pto on my 982. The rotor seems to be cupped. I assume that it should be flat to make better contact when on. Can someone tell if this is correct. And i was going to clean in off with some sandpaper before putting back together. Thanks for any help.
 
David S and Kraig - hold your horses on the engine color. It's only yellow if your engine has the original style metal plate ID tag. If your engine is a replacement with the sticker tag ya better go with black (I actually like the black contrast anyway). With regard to the cable routing, I've had units with the routing shown in the 1st pic Kraig posted, but I think the cable actually should go inside the battery box along the side of the battery. If you place it along the outside the box as the 1st pic shows, I think it interfers with the hood latch (I think the pic shows IH air brushing). If you run the cable down under the battery box and out the half moon cut out of the clutch cover you end up with to much bending and it's hard to pull the choke knob. You can do it if you have a longer choke cable, but I don't think it's the correct routing.
(under edit - Kraig, ya posted another pic so I had to edit this).

Don T - I hate to disagree with Frank, but I don't think a 125 used the pin on deck. I think that ended with the 1x2/3 series (but maybe it could have been phased out during the 1x2/3 series). The Operator and/or Deck manual from that era should show what is correct. Kraig?
 
Well, a little progress. Used the jaw puller and tapped away and low and behold they lined up - very reluctantly. Now for the bad part - got ONE screw out and ain't no more gonna give it up. The heads feel stripped and honestly can't even tell if the one I got out was bottom or top. So, I guess my next question is what now? Can they be drilled out and re-tapped for larger screws or do I put a stick of dynamite between the block and pulley and just let er rip?
 
David Schwandt

I find the easiest way to get the pto aligned for the set screw is to remove the PTo mower belt from the PTO. pull back and lock the pto handle and with the handle back you should be able to spin the PTO in the basket to get alignment for the screws.1/8 " allen wrench . the three top ones will be flat and the bottom three will be pointed.
 
Don, Hydro, the 125 would have used the QA style mower deck. Though if the dealer had stock on the pin on style it could have been sold with one. Keep in mind (Hydro, I know you know but others here may not) the tractors did not come with a mower deck, or any other implement as standard equipment. It's entirely possible that if a dealer had a pin on style deck in stock and no more 1x2/3 series tractors he may have sold one with a 1x4/5 series tractor. Yeah it may not be very probable but it certainly could have been possible.

David S., what Hydro said is true, a replacement spec engine would have been black, however even one of those would look better yellow IMO. Hydro,
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Hydro, keep in mind that the dash on a 73 is flat and the controls mount into that so the cables would be going straight down into the pedestal not forward through the bulkhead like on a 126 or 127. I forgot that when I posted the photo of the 126/7...
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