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Archive through March 01, 2010
- Thread starter cstouffer
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
Corey, the early K161 had a 2.875" bore and all the early blocks had steel gov gears. The problem is trying to find replacement parts for the 2.875" bore. If it need rebuilt the best is to bore cylinder for the 2.938" piston. Just did one this summer.
"..or maybe they had to boost the displacement to meet the marketing guys horsepower ratings.."
Kendall, as Sgt. Schultz would say, "I know nussing", but I'd bet that you're on to something. Displacement per the chart is 16.94 in^3, so why wouldn't they have called it a K171? They rounded up on the K241 and K301. Exactly 16 in^3 would require a 2.855" bore, so having a bore in the 2.875" range and calling it the K161 seems reasonable. Looking at the K341 displacement makes me wonder if it started out with a smaller bore, even if it was just pre-production.
Jerry}
Kendall, as Sgt. Schultz would say, "I know nussing", but I'd bet that you're on to something. Displacement per the chart is 16.94 in^3, so why wouldn't they have called it a K171? They rounded up on the K241 and K301. Exactly 16 in^3 would require a 2.855" bore, so having a bore in the 2.875" range and calling it the K161 seems reasonable. Looking at the K341 displacement makes me wonder if it started out with a smaller bore, even if it was just pre-production.
Jerry}
Justin, your only 15 and you have 6 cadets impressive
Kendell, Corey, others
The bore size on the K161 changed from 2-7/8" to 2-15/16" at engine spec #281162 (and at #20356 on the K141). The crank stroke remained the same at 2-1/2". All of the K161's used in the Cub Cadets had the smaller bore. The 2-15/16" bore is the same as used in the K181, and the same 2-15/16"piston is used in all three engines. The 2-7/8" piston and rings are getting hard to find. I don't know the reason behind the change other than it allowed Kohler to use the same piston for all 3 engines rather than 2 different pistons. I don't know the date this took place, but I would think it happened not too long before the K161 was dropped from the Kohler lineup and the K181 became a standard replacement engine for the IH 7 HP Cub Cadets.
Matt,
The oil pans should interchange, but I am not sure what you are calling a retangle and a square pan. The main difference between the pan on an Original and a 70 is the O has a side drain and the 70 a bottom drain.
The bore size on the K161 changed from 2-7/8" to 2-15/16" at engine spec #281162 (and at #20356 on the K141). The crank stroke remained the same at 2-1/2". All of the K161's used in the Cub Cadets had the smaller bore. The 2-15/16" bore is the same as used in the K181, and the same 2-15/16"piston is used in all three engines. The 2-7/8" piston and rings are getting hard to find. I don't know the reason behind the change other than it allowed Kohler to use the same piston for all 3 engines rather than 2 different pistons. I don't know the date this took place, but I would think it happened not too long before the K161 was dropped from the Kohler lineup and the K181 became a standard replacement engine for the IH 7 HP Cub Cadets.
Matt,
The oil pans should interchange, but I am not sure what you are calling a retangle and a square pan. The main difference between the pan on an Original and a 70 is the O has a side drain and the 70 a bottom drain.
PAUL - Thank's for clearing the K161 piston size debate up. I guess I never read my service manuals closely enough, I never realized the K141 was also the same size bore. I was always surprised how much torquier the K181 was over the K161 with just that little quarter-inch additional stroke. I almost built a "Stroker Motor" out of my K321 until I found out how much additional work was required to move the camshaft to get any significant additional stroke.
I don't have any Kohler parts books, just the service manual dated about 1968/1970 but it confirms exactly what You said.
I don't have any Kohler parts books, just the service manual dated about 1968/1970 but it confirms exactly what You said.
jeff l baker
I would say that the smaller id should work . The 12 K should work fine with that.
Just got my confuser back for the shop . The power went off as I started it up 2 days ago and had to take it to a teck and get the boot sector repaired. another $50.00 for that
I would say that the smaller id should work . The 12 K should work fine with that.
Just got my confuser back for the shop . The power went off as I started it up 2 days ago and had to take it to a teck and get the boot sector repaired. another $50.00 for that
Dave Ross
I say that because if the 12K did need the large id to supply fuel to the bowl , well I think it would run the tank dry in about 3 minutes or less. The larger ID would not plug as fast but I think its overkill. my .02
I say that because if the 12K did need the large id to supply fuel to the bowl , well I think it would run the tank dry in about 3 minutes or less. The larger ID would not plug as fast but I think its overkill. my .02
well thanks for the help guys,,,,i really apriciate it,,,,i really like this forum,,,,now i need to decide where to get the ols piston,,,,i emailed chris,,,,,i still have to go and get measurments off the cylinder,,,,,,sadly i dont have enough cash to bore it out to the correct size for the bigger piston
,,,,but ill figure something out,,,,thanks again guys!
JEFF - I'm going to agree with DON on this one. If You compare that fuel flow area to the tiny tiny hole in the main fuel needle in the carb, even that small hole is HUGE.
Like Don says, the smaller hole is more prone to plugging up if your gas tank is dirty but your 129 should run fine.
Like Don says, the smaller hole is more prone to plugging up if your gas tank is dirty but your 129 should run fine.
Anyone have any thoughts or ideas on if it is feasible to remove the 60 degree exhaust elbow off of a quietline engine? Broke the exisitng one off flush in the block trying to remove the muffler on my project 1450. Used a dremel tool to weaken what was left in the block and a hammer and cold chisel removed the old pieces. I now have to find a replacement and have a spare engine in the shed with the exhaust elbow in it. Has anyone successfully removed these?
Jeff, It's yours and you already have that one. Those reasons alone make it worth a try. From the picture, it looks like it's half or less than the size it should be. I don't wish harm or bad luck on anyone. Sometimes when you run into problems it's not one thing but several together that cause the problem and the farther away from stock you get the more problems you can cause yourself.
Don, Dennis, I see your thinking, you can only pass as much gas as the biggest restriction. I'm thinking you should'nt put one at the begining.
Don, Dennis, I see your thinking, you can only pass as much gas as the biggest restriction. I'm thinking you should'nt put one at the begining.
Rob, spray the exhaust elbow with a good penetrating oil like PB Blaster, Kroil or Liquid Wrench. Let it soak in good and give it a day or two. Then try to remove the elbow, if it doesn't budge, spray it again. A little heat can also help loosen it. I've also heard of people heating up the parts (not just exhaust elbows but rusted nuts bolts as well) then putting wax on them while still hot, this supposedly wicks the wax into the threads and can loosen them up. Patience is the key here.
Kraig McConaughey "Keeper of the Photos"
When I messed with old engines and exhaust studs I learned that if you heat the head and not the stud this would most times break the rust from the threads, This does not work every time but It has worked more than a few times for me. A good soaking sure don`t hurt and diesel fuel is good for a lot of stuck parts for sure.
When I messed with old engines and exhaust studs I learned that if you heat the head and not the stud this would most times break the rust from the threads, This does not work every time but It has worked more than a few times for me. A good soaking sure don`t hurt and diesel fuel is good for a lot of stuck parts for sure.
Last December I had Problem with my 982, it was hard to start if not used daily. If the battery would last it would eventually start and run great. Tried a little gas down the carb, would fire up instantly, thought the fuel pump was going bad. With the help of Myron B. found a source for a pump, in the mean time used a pump off a late model Kohler, same problem. Dennis F. posted that his 982 would leak gas from the carb, making it hard to start. I put a primer bulb between the pump and carb, instant fix.I will try to get a carb rebuild kit. Thank you Dennis and Myron. Dan B.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
That gas shutoff should be fine. The internal passage in the sediment bowls we use on these things is about that size, if not smaller.
