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Archive through June 01, 2010

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Where is everyone getting the spirol pins in the hydro drive shafts from, i check lowes they don't carry them.
 
Eric Thomas


http://ccspecialties.org/clutch_driveline_rearend.html
I know our sponsor has those there for us to buy!
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Eric, CC Specialties, Madson's Service and probably other forum sponsors carry them. What size did you need? I may have a spare one setting around I could send your way.
 
Eric: CC Specialties..

The one on the hydro pump on my 129 is the original. As Harry was talking about the other day, there seems to be some murkiness about the one in the front end of the driveshaft.. Mine was solid when I got it and the pin in there now was something I dug out of a junk box, it is actually hollow (and tapped) on one end for about 3/16 of an inch.. It was what I had handy at the time, and when I drove it through, stayed tight. That was mid 90's (BIHCCF) and it's still there, although I've had to build it back up with a little bead at least once or twice.. I think it was a piece out of a sewing machine
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<font size="-2">(oh crap, here comes the correct police....)</font>
 
Does anyothe know where to get reproduction decals for a kohler that can be stamped with the correct S/N and spec number???
 
I need the one at the hydro pump and driveshaft, I was hoping to find them locally.
 
Eric, send me an email with your mailing address. I have a spare, 1/4" x 1.5" Spirol pin, that I'll send you. I'll mail it out tomorrow and you should have it in 3 days or so.
 
Eric:

YARBOROUGH TRACTORS & EQUIP.INC.
7553 CHARLOTTE HIGHWAY (HWY 521)
FORT MILL SC 29707
Phone: (803) 547-5003
View Cub Cadet Dealer Site

14.8 miles

............................................

WHITLEY LAWN & GARDEN, INC.
4308 PAGELAND HIGHWAY
MONROE NC 28112
Phone: (704) 764-3910

15.5 miles
...........................................

CHARLOTTE TRACTOR CO
1700 STARITA ROAD
CHARLOTTE NC 28206
Phone: (704) 596-8900

16.5 miles

.............................................

LAKE NORMAN TRACTOR COMPANY
18309 STATESVILLE ROAD
CORNELIUS NC 28031
Phone: (704) 892-6750

29.5 miles
Directions

............................................

STANLY TRACTOR COMPANY
2016 WEST MAIN STREET
ALBEMARLE NC 28001
Phone: (704) 983-1106

29.6 miles



Hmmmmm, gotta be one of these local enough for ya...
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Ya know the thing is, There NOTHING that our Sponsors don't have or can't get for Cub Cadets.
Not to take anything away from Cub Dealers proper, but we all know the attitude of most of them when you say made before even 1990!
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Charlie, not that i dont support the sponsors but i have pretty good luck with either one of my cub dealers with parts. if one doesnt have it or the other has it cheaper i will always get it one way or another. i can say the model number( 105,124,ect; and they know whast im talking about just my 0.02
 
And after the local dealer "experience", getting the right thing via the Big Brown Truck don't seem so bad..
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Guy's, can't thank you enough for all the info about the paint!!!!

Do you just use reg. Fed. yellow for the engine or a heat rated paint? Most of the original paint had turned brown. I assumed it was caused by heat but I suspect there was a gas leak and that can turn paint brown also. I'm trying to decide on assembling the engine and then painting or painting all the parts then put it together. Any advice?

I wont paint the head or the cooling fins!
 
I know the spiral pins hold. almost to well unless I don't know the secret. I've had to cut 2 flush then punch them out.
 
Bob-

You can paint the cylinder, but it'll discolor. I'd rather have discolored paint than rust on a freshly repainted tractor, but that's me. Rust and paint probably conduct heat equally poorly, so it probably doesn't make a difference. You could also paint the cylinder with high-temp BBQ grill paint.

For the 100 I redid, I painted everything in pieces and then assembled it. I had to be extremely careful not to scratch anything, and it took forever to put it together, but I think I'd do it again, that way, because you can get paint everywhere that it needs to be when the engine is disassembled.

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BTW - I just learned that "Spirol" is a brand... here's some info from their catalog (all pages courtesy Spirol International)..

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Bob P:
If you need to punch more out, there are special dome ended punches that help "spring" the center - they'll come right out..
 
Here's a tip for removing spirol pins. Wire brush paint and rust off of it if possible, and then soak it in PB blaster. Inspect it and figure out which end was hammered on to install it. Drive it out the other way, such that you aren't trying to force a peened-over end all the way through the hole. This makes removal a LOT easier.
 

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