J
jott
Guest
Lucas,...idk what you mean excactly. when you change oil in the spring to what will be used in the summer, you should use SAE 30 oil. Anyway i do. So.. what are you getting at?
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Archive through June 01, 2010
- Thread starter bproctor
- Start date
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What brand
Lucas, I use JD Torq-Gard in 30 wt, but only because my brother is the parts manager at a JD dealership.
J
jott
Guest
i use my local get-it-all store( everythinbg from clothes to farm animal feed). i cant remember the brand right now. Its not a name brand, but as long as it get changed reguarily it works alright.
Lucas J.
What ever brand is slippery!
Kohlers don't care if your gonna change it every year or two anyway.
Personally in my 1450 work horse, I changed the oil back 6 or 7 years ago I think it was, course I use snake oil additive that no one believes in except a few of us that is.
What ever brand is slippery!
Kohlers don't care if your gonna change it every year or two anyway.
Personally in my 1450 work horse, I changed the oil back 6 or 7 years ago I think it was, course I use snake oil additive that no one believes in except a few of us that is.
Josh, would that be a Fleet Farm store? If so, Resolute is the brand. I've used it too. Not as good as the JD stuff. I used it during the break in period for Killer as I was changing the oil frequently. In fact I think that might be what is in it now. Almost time to give Killer fresh oil even though the oil still looks clean.
WARNING! OFF TOPIC POST
If anyone is interested and have not been watching the thread in the sandbox.
This might just be the makings of the largest disaster to hit the US in many years and if it doesn't go as planned, it will be!
http://tinyurl.com/368ll3a
They are getting ready to open up that big 21" pipe to free flow the oil!
If anyone is interested and have not been watching the thread in the sandbox.
This might just be the makings of the largest disaster to hit the US in many years and if it doesn't go as planned, it will be!
http://tinyurl.com/368ll3a
They are getting ready to open up that big 21" pipe to free flow the oil!
Gerry,
are those called spirol pin punches?
I have roll pin punches and would get a set of the other.
Lucas,
I use an SAE 30 oil that meets standard specs. More importantly I change my oil more often than most. When an engine doesn't have an oil filter, the dirty oil just keeps splashing around in there. The only way to clean it is to change it!
I also just ordered magnetic drain plugs from KIRK ENGINES (sponsor). Its a great idea to keep all those metal paticals trapped.
are those called spirol pin punches?
I have roll pin punches and would get a set of the other.
Lucas,
I use an SAE 30 oil that meets standard specs. More importantly I change my oil more often than most. When an engine doesn't have an oil filter, the dirty oil just keeps splashing around in there. The only way to clean it is to change it!
I also just ordered magnetic drain plugs from KIRK ENGINES (sponsor). Its a great idea to keep all those metal paticals trapped.
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,468
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
KenTUCK - red on one side and green on the other. I have some recollection of selling it to ya, but not the red part. Only thing I can figure is it was either Christmas time, or I was running a Red Green special to honor that Canadian Comedy - did it have duct tape on it?
Hey Kraig Mc - have you got any photos of that green thing Kentuck dug out with me in it?
Ok Guys - I'm smelling a discussion about roll pins, doubled roll pins, which I think are more or less Spirol pins, and solid pins - when it comes to the drive shaft and hub assembly. I know you can use a roll or Spirol pin there but my parts book calls out a 1/4 x 1 1/2 dowel pin. I ain't no engineer (they drive trains right) but it seems to me this pin makes a solid fit into the drive shaft, and a loose slotted fit into the hub. I think all the places IH used a roll/Spirol pin made solid and solid connections. The hub has a slightly oversized slot for the pin to slip into. I'm almost certain there is a reason for the oversizing, something like an engine miss doesn't get completely transfered along the drive to the rearend, etc. What ever the reason, there is one. And as such, a solid pin is less likely to break (if at all). In fact the solid pin does a pretty good job holding up itself and eating into the hub. Most of us have seen the slotted hubs that have a big U cut into them from the solid pin. I have to believe a roll or Spirol pin is some type of spring steel and if you use it for the driveshaft/hub connection it has a great chance of snapping that pin off, which just doesn't happen with the solid pins. And if you snap that roll pin and it twists into the hub you have a real mess on your hands to get apart, most likely requiring a new drive shaft, hub, and of course a new dowel pin this time. And so my theory goes - use the dowel pin to avoid a disaster. If it cuts into your hub over time you can weld fill the hub and file it, or replace the hub.
Ok, lets here from you guys now - am I making sense?
KenTUCK - didn't you invent some type of "pin remover tool". I never did get one - maybe now is the time. Can you give us the details?
I also see some questions on type and brand of oil. Back in the old Forum days there was a great oil debate. IH and Kohler do recommend a low ash oil for these air cooled engines. Hardly any oil is identified with its ash content, but you can usually get it direct from the manufacturer with research. Alot of guys swear by the Mystery oil, and I tend to think it does really work so if you use an off brand you might want to use the Mystery stuff too. I use Valvoline myself, which isn't necesarily low ash content but I do like to change it often. Kohler recommends every 25 hours so for many of you that should be 3 or 4 times a year at least. It really has to be the cheapest maintenance you can provide. I also like the idea of the metal drain plug and just picked one up from David Kirk (sponsor), will install this weekend. I'm anxious to see what it catches. And for a final note, towards the end of the Great Oil Debate on the old Forum, I remember a quote from an old timer as follows "oil is oil, some is better than none"
And now for the paint stuff - not all of us have a compressor, or even room for one. That only leaves us with rattle cans. Prep, prep, prep and more prep, in my view is the key. I know it's alot of cans but you really only need to spray the larger flat surfaces, and really exposed areas for appearance purposes. There's alot you can do with quarts and chip brushes - like all the cast iron pieces, flat bars, rods, shafts, etc. It takes time and you might have to leave things 3-4 days before painting the reverse sides with a brush, but it does work. I did a 107 along time ago and had it at a show in CT., and the Professor, aka Museum Currator Extrordinaire Jim Chabot just could not believe it was done with rattle cans - and he is one of the best with paint details. And as for the actual paint I use, no particular primer brand, but I like the CC yellow (older correct era) and the IH 935 which you get now as Iron Guard from the Case/IH dealers (using the number in the paint reference in the FAQ). And by the way, for the engine I use gloss black unless it's a Quiet Line in which case the engine gets a satin finish. I just like the looks of a black engine (and black covers the best even tho it retains more heat).
That's it for tonite guys.
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die - there's to many of us that shock'em back to life.
Hey Kraig Mc - have you got any photos of that green thing Kentuck dug out with me in it?
Ok Guys - I'm smelling a discussion about roll pins, doubled roll pins, which I think are more or less Spirol pins, and solid pins - when it comes to the drive shaft and hub assembly. I know you can use a roll or Spirol pin there but my parts book calls out a 1/4 x 1 1/2 dowel pin. I ain't no engineer (they drive trains right) but it seems to me this pin makes a solid fit into the drive shaft, and a loose slotted fit into the hub. I think all the places IH used a roll/Spirol pin made solid and solid connections. The hub has a slightly oversized slot for the pin to slip into. I'm almost certain there is a reason for the oversizing, something like an engine miss doesn't get completely transfered along the drive to the rearend, etc. What ever the reason, there is one. And as such, a solid pin is less likely to break (if at all). In fact the solid pin does a pretty good job holding up itself and eating into the hub. Most of us have seen the slotted hubs that have a big U cut into them from the solid pin. I have to believe a roll or Spirol pin is some type of spring steel and if you use it for the driveshaft/hub connection it has a great chance of snapping that pin off, which just doesn't happen with the solid pins. And if you snap that roll pin and it twists into the hub you have a real mess on your hands to get apart, most likely requiring a new drive shaft, hub, and of course a new dowel pin this time. And so my theory goes - use the dowel pin to avoid a disaster. If it cuts into your hub over time you can weld fill the hub and file it, or replace the hub.
Ok, lets here from you guys now - am I making sense?
KenTUCK - didn't you invent some type of "pin remover tool". I never did get one - maybe now is the time. Can you give us the details?
I also see some questions on type and brand of oil. Back in the old Forum days there was a great oil debate. IH and Kohler do recommend a low ash oil for these air cooled engines. Hardly any oil is identified with its ash content, but you can usually get it direct from the manufacturer with research. Alot of guys swear by the Mystery oil, and I tend to think it does really work so if you use an off brand you might want to use the Mystery stuff too. I use Valvoline myself, which isn't necesarily low ash content but I do like to change it often. Kohler recommends every 25 hours so for many of you that should be 3 or 4 times a year at least. It really has to be the cheapest maintenance you can provide. I also like the idea of the metal drain plug and just picked one up from David Kirk (sponsor), will install this weekend. I'm anxious to see what it catches. And for a final note, towards the end of the Great Oil Debate on the old Forum, I remember a quote from an old timer as follows "oil is oil, some is better than none"
And now for the paint stuff - not all of us have a compressor, or even room for one. That only leaves us with rattle cans. Prep, prep, prep and more prep, in my view is the key. I know it's alot of cans but you really only need to spray the larger flat surfaces, and really exposed areas for appearance purposes. There's alot you can do with quarts and chip brushes - like all the cast iron pieces, flat bars, rods, shafts, etc. It takes time and you might have to leave things 3-4 days before painting the reverse sides with a brush, but it does work. I did a 107 along time ago and had it at a show in CT., and the Professor, aka Museum Currator Extrordinaire Jim Chabot just could not believe it was done with rattle cans - and he is one of the best with paint details. And as for the actual paint I use, no particular primer brand, but I like the CC yellow (older correct era) and the IH 935 which you get now as Iron Guard from the Case/IH dealers (using the number in the paint reference in the FAQ). And by the way, for the engine I use gloss black unless it's a Quiet Line in which case the engine gets a satin finish. I just like the looks of a black engine (and black covers the best even tho it retains more heat).
That's it for tonite guys.
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die - there's to many of us that shock'em back to life.
