-
This community needs YOUR help today!
With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
We need more Supporting Members today.Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.
Why Join?
- Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
- Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
- Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!
This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:
Archive through December 04, 2004
- Thread starter gwsmith
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
Todd,
Did ya forget this!
By Todd Markle (Farmall Gray) (Tmarkle) on Monday, November 24, 2003 - 07:44 am:
The UPS truck just brought my thrust bearings.
The # is 4457-00, and GBC is the mfr. So that is another # to interchange if you can't get it by
the nice 605V.
Did ya forget this!
By Todd Markle (Farmall Gray) (Tmarkle) on Monday, November 24, 2003 - 07:44 am:
The UPS truck just brought my thrust bearings.
The # is 4457-00, and GBC is the mfr. So that is another # to interchange if you can't get it by
the nice 605V.
rchristensen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2006
- Messages
- 933
- displayname
- Richard Christensen
Todd M.
That would be a Nice 605V
That would be a Nice 605V
Richard,
Todd knew that, he's just been suckin in to much RED paint lately!
Todd knew that, he's just been suckin in to much RED paint lately!
Zach,
Sometimes electrical problems can be hard to detect, especially if you are not standing right next to the tractor. As Terry showed in his chart, if the solenoid is clicking, check to make sure you have 12 volts going to the starter when the key is turned to the start position. If not, then you either have a bad solenoid or a bad cable going from the solenoid to the starter. If no power to the starter, then turn the key to start and make sure you have 12 volts at the out going post of the solenoid(the one the cable fastens to going to the starter). If not, then it is the solenoid. If you do, then you have a bad cable going to the starter. In all cases, make sure all terminal and cable are shiny and getting good contact, especially the battery cables themselves. I am working on a Simplicity right now that would not turn over but the solenoid clicked. I finally cleaned the battery cables real good and she turned right over. A poor conection at the battery can give you enough power to click the solenoid but not enough to turn over the starter. I still do not have spark but that is another story on a wonderful Briggs & scrapiron.
Sometimes electrical problems can be hard to detect, especially if you are not standing right next to the tractor. As Terry showed in his chart, if the solenoid is clicking, check to make sure you have 12 volts going to the starter when the key is turned to the start position. If not, then you either have a bad solenoid or a bad cable going from the solenoid to the starter. If no power to the starter, then turn the key to start and make sure you have 12 volts at the out going post of the solenoid(the one the cable fastens to going to the starter). If not, then it is the solenoid. If you do, then you have a bad cable going to the starter. In all cases, make sure all terminal and cable are shiny and getting good contact, especially the battery cables themselves. I am working on a Simplicity right now that would not turn over but the solenoid clicked. I finally cleaned the battery cables real good and she turned right over. A poor conection at the battery can give you enough power to click the solenoid but not enough to turn over the starter. I still do not have spark but that is another story on a wonderful Briggs & scrapiron.
Zach:
Relax, bud. I'm pretty good mechanically, but I'm a total putz when it comes to electricitaries (Dave K - how do you like THAT for mis-spelling!), homotrons, protons, electrons and all things that go "ZAP", just short of dilitheum crystals.
Dave K's pretty good at explaining all things electrical. I've got to read & re-read his posts to make sure that I get it, but I'm keeping up. Having worked on a bunch of these Cubs, I've got the slight advantage of sheer time & exposure. Take a moment and think about what activities these switches and stuff are enabling, and then interrupting, and it'll help you think through it logically.
For example, the keyswitch "start" position enables current to pull up the shorting bar in the solenoid so that the big zap makes it through to the starter-generator. Simutaneously, it's enabling current to find it's way to the coil so that you've got spark at the plug so the crazy thing'll go.
Then, the keyswitch springs back to the "run" position. Here, it disables the solenoid but continues to feed current to the coil. It keeps making spark (& runs) until such time as you want to park it. Turn the key to "off" and it interrupts the circuit to the coil and you're done until you need it again.
Now, I don't have a friggin' clue on the charging circuit of a S/G, so you'll have to tap back into Dave K's brain for that one.
I hope a simple explanation from a (very) simple mind helps. Once you fight your way through this and you "get it", you'll remember it and you won't have to relearn this one again. The best lessons are often learned the hard way.
Good luck.
Keith
Relax, bud. I'm pretty good mechanically, but I'm a total putz when it comes to electricitaries (Dave K - how do you like THAT for mis-spelling!), homotrons, protons, electrons and all things that go "ZAP", just short of dilitheum crystals.
Dave K's pretty good at explaining all things electrical. I've got to read & re-read his posts to make sure that I get it, but I'm keeping up. Having worked on a bunch of these Cubs, I've got the slight advantage of sheer time & exposure. Take a moment and think about what activities these switches and stuff are enabling, and then interrupting, and it'll help you think through it logically.
For example, the keyswitch "start" position enables current to pull up the shorting bar in the solenoid so that the big zap makes it through to the starter-generator. Simutaneously, it's enabling current to find it's way to the coil so that you've got spark at the plug so the crazy thing'll go.
Then, the keyswitch springs back to the "run" position. Here, it disables the solenoid but continues to feed current to the coil. It keeps making spark (& runs) until such time as you want to park it. Turn the key to "off" and it interrupts the circuit to the coil and you're done until you need it again.
Now, I don't have a friggin' clue on the charging circuit of a S/G, so you'll have to tap back into Dave K's brain for that one.
I hope a simple explanation from a (very) simple mind helps. Once you fight your way through this and you "get it", you'll remember it and you won't have to relearn this one again. The best lessons are often learned the hard way.
Good luck.
Keith
Wes - I had a Ford that sat for a few years, and the solenoid would click just fine, but it was so corroded inside that when the contacts were closed the current wasn't able to pass through. I probably should have mentioned that yesterday.
I have been mowing for the last seven months and come back to find you guys still out there. I need to remove, re-gasket and "O"ring my 149.(Hydro leaks). My book is a bit thin on the removal procedure. I have a friend with the necessary talent to help me rebuild the Hydro unit so all I need to do for now is remove and transport the Hydro unit I checked FAQ and did not find what I need. Do I or should I split the Tractor? Does the Hydro unit come free of the rear drive assy? Any assistance would be appreciated. The book I have is GSS-1464 W/Revision 2 Dated September, 1979 Titled "Service Manual" International Cub Cadet Tractors Models 86,108,109,128,129,149,169,800,1000,1200,1250,1450 &1650 Chassis and Equipment.
Herbert, I just replaced my hydro without splitting the tractor. Remove the fenders, disconnect everything going to the hydro, remove the 4 bolts holding it on the rear end and it can be wiggled out from the top.
John
John
jkoenig
In Remembrance 2023
- Joined
- Sep 14, 2002
- Messages
- 1,319
- displayname
- Jim Koenig Halfway between Harvester, MO and Cadet, MO
Todd G,
I've used some Prime Line stuff in the past, but here lately the prices locally have made it pointless not to buy Kohler since they are no longer dramatically less expensive. We print their box labels at my employer so I wouldn't mind supporting them if it made sense for me.
Sorry no real info on quality or durability 'cause all that stuff was only short term quick fix stuff that came back out when I rebuilt-that's why I went cheap at the time. I knew it wouldn't be in there long. And now it ain't that cheap at my dealer. Only reason I can see for me to ever go back is for the green machine Dad has (hehe) or if they have it on the shelf and I NEED it to get me going. My Kohler guy is a real class act, though and if I need it and he doesn't have it on the shelf, he'll send me to the distributor's warehouse about 8 miles away to pick it up myself. I can't put a price tag on that kinda service.
All this reminiscing about those parts reminds me that I did get a primary mower belt from the Prime Line guys (who are first class guys too-on auto parts) that wouldn't stay on. I bought it from them because they were open on Sun. Monday morning I was at the dealer buying another one. Turns out the profile was not deep enough to stay in the pulley grooves.
Good luck with your Cubs whatever parts you end up with.
I've used some Prime Line stuff in the past, but here lately the prices locally have made it pointless not to buy Kohler since they are no longer dramatically less expensive. We print their box labels at my employer so I wouldn't mind supporting them if it made sense for me.
Sorry no real info on quality or durability 'cause all that stuff was only short term quick fix stuff that came back out when I rebuilt-that's why I went cheap at the time. I knew it wouldn't be in there long. And now it ain't that cheap at my dealer. Only reason I can see for me to ever go back is for the green machine Dad has (hehe) or if they have it on the shelf and I NEED it to get me going. My Kohler guy is a real class act, though and if I need it and he doesn't have it on the shelf, he'll send me to the distributor's warehouse about 8 miles away to pick it up myself. I can't put a price tag on that kinda service.
All this reminiscing about those parts reminds me that I did get a primary mower belt from the Prime Line guys (who are first class guys too-on auto parts) that wouldn't stay on. I bought it from them because they were open on Sun. Monday morning I was at the dealer buying another one. Turns out the profile was not deep enough to stay in the pulley grooves.
Good luck with your Cubs whatever parts you end up with.
I probably haven't read all of Zach's problem, but a couple of years ago my 682 solenoid clicked & thought it was the battery & replaced it. Same thing, finally I had a mechanic friend look at it & he jumped it from my pickup. Turned over fine, found out my new battery wasn't any good, exchanged it & no more problem.
tschweizer
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 16, 2000
- Messages
- 862
- displayname
- Travis Schweizer
Keith, wiring is easy. You just have to watch out for the gay electrons going around and blowing all the fuses
Dave K2, Terry B, Wes H, Keith E;
Nice job on interpreting and explaining the starting and ignition circuits.
Great addition to the schematic with the troubleshooting guide. Only "fix" is that the light blue wire is between your red "K" and "I," which is the generator "A" terminal and the regulator "Gen" terminal.
Zach;
Nobody here is trying to give you a hard time yet. You've listed your occupation as student, so I guess we're assuming that you're a person who studies. People will help, but you have to try to help yourself, too, sometimes more than once.
You said you have gotten it to both click and turn, so you're making headway. Congratulate yourself on that accomplishment, and have some patience. You know that one part of the system works, so you can move on to others. The more parts there are, the more chance of things getting out of whack. You need to get them back in whack.
I have located a fairly forgiving section of my garage wall, so that when I feel the need to bang my head on something, I don't do too much damage to myself.
As mentioned here before, some replacement regulators have a different physical appearance, so look at the terminal markings rather than the location of the terminals. The 12 volt figure is, of course, assuming that your battery voltage is measured first and has 12 volts to start with. If not, charge it and use the full measured voltage to compare at all the indicated locations in the chart.
Wes' comments about the battery terminals and ground terminals are also perfect. ALL the grounds need good connections, or something isn't going to work.
The comments about ignition points and contacts in the solenoid also infer that the points in the regulator should be in good condition and adjusted properly, but that has more to do with the charging circuit. By the time you have the tractor going, you'll be familiar enough with these processes that reading the manual, then cleaning and adjusting those points will be pretty simple. If there's been corrosion or other bad connections so far, I would kind of suspect the charging system to have some of the same.
Sometimes aggravation is a lot cheaper than tuition, sometimes not.
Nice job on interpreting and explaining the starting and ignition circuits.
Great addition to the schematic with the troubleshooting guide. Only "fix" is that the light blue wire is between your red "K" and "I," which is the generator "A" terminal and the regulator "Gen" terminal.
Zach;
Nobody here is trying to give you a hard time yet. You've listed your occupation as student, so I guess we're assuming that you're a person who studies. People will help, but you have to try to help yourself, too, sometimes more than once.
You said you have gotten it to both click and turn, so you're making headway. Congratulate yourself on that accomplishment, and have some patience. You know that one part of the system works, so you can move on to others. The more parts there are, the more chance of things getting out of whack. You need to get them back in whack.
I have located a fairly forgiving section of my garage wall, so that when I feel the need to bang my head on something, I don't do too much damage to myself.
As mentioned here before, some replacement regulators have a different physical appearance, so look at the terminal markings rather than the location of the terminals. The 12 volt figure is, of course, assuming that your battery voltage is measured first and has 12 volts to start with. If not, charge it and use the full measured voltage to compare at all the indicated locations in the chart.
Wes' comments about the battery terminals and ground terminals are also perfect. ALL the grounds need good connections, or something isn't going to work.
The comments about ignition points and contacts in the solenoid also infer that the points in the regulator should be in good condition and adjusted properly, but that has more to do with the charging circuit. By the time you have the tractor going, you'll be familiar enough with these processes that reading the manual, then cleaning and adjusting those points will be pretty simple. If there's been corrosion or other bad connections so far, I would kind of suspect the charging system to have some of the same.
Sometimes aggravation is a lot cheaper than tuition, sometimes not.
tschweizer
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 16, 2000
- Messages
- 862
- displayname
- Travis Schweizer
Keith, I made it home this time without incident ;-) Thanks again.
Bruce,
I noticed I got a little cut paste happy.
The original post read "K,I - 12 volts when key in start AND the solenoid clicks, if not maybe bad light blue wire A and L"
I think it should have read "K,I - 12 volts when key in start AND the solenoid clicks, if not maybe bad light blue wire K and I"
Is that what you meant by "Only "fix" is that the light blue wire is between your red "K" and "I," which is the generator "A" terminal and the regulator "Gen" terminal."?
Zach,
IF you are still out there please post your voltage reports using the revised schematic. Also note the key switch positions. We might be able to figure this out with the info.
Meanwhile I'll just sit in my recliner waiting for it to snow!
I noticed I got a little cut paste happy.
The original post read "K,I - 12 volts when key in start AND the solenoid clicks, if not maybe bad light blue wire A and L"
I think it should have read "K,I - 12 volts when key in start AND the solenoid clicks, if not maybe bad light blue wire K and I"
Is that what you meant by "Only "fix" is that the light blue wire is between your red "K" and "I," which is the generator "A" terminal and the regulator "Gen" terminal."?
Zach,
IF you are still out there please post your voltage reports using the revised schematic. Also note the key switch positions. We might be able to figure this out with the info.
Meanwhile I'll just sit in my recliner waiting for it to snow!
I hope one of you with more knowledge than I will answer this basic question. I am fixing my first CC (very used) - a 1250 with hydrostatic transmission. Does the engine and the transmission share the same lubricationg oil? I found what I think is an oil drain plug on the engine and an "oil" filter on the transmission, but not vice-versa. If so, what is the proper lubricant to use?
Please don't pick on me too much (althouhg I couldn't blame you if you do). I'm the first to admit I'm no mechanic so I thought it better to ask someone who knows rather than guess and really goof something up! Thanks...
Please don't pick on me too much (althouhg I couldn't blame you if you do). I'm the first to admit I'm no mechanic so I thought it better to ask someone who knows rather than guess and really goof something up! Thanks...
Mark M.
The engine has a drain plug like you found but the rear end does not, to change the fluid/Hy-Tran you have to remove the rearend cover plate, Make sure you have a large pan under it too, grin
When you change the rearend fluid, just make sure you change the filter as well. And use a new cover plate gasket.
As far as oil goes, that's what ever you really want to run. A lot of guys use Mobil1, I don't, but about everyone uses synthetic of some sort these days, 10W30 or along those lines.
Here's what TFM says, grin
The engine has a drain plug like you found but the rear end does not, to change the fluid/Hy-Tran you have to remove the rearend cover plate, Make sure you have a large pan under it too, grin
When you change the rearend fluid, just make sure you change the filter as well. And use a new cover plate gasket.
As far as oil goes, that's what ever you really want to run. A lot of guys use Mobil1, I don't, but about everyone uses synthetic of some sort these days, 10W30 or along those lines.
Here's what TFM says, grin
Oh yea Mark,
While youor settin there doin nothin, grin
Check out the FAQ page above, it's gots some good stuff to help ya out some with your new toy.
While youor settin there doin nothin, grin
Check out the FAQ page above, it's gots some good stuff to help ya out some with your new toy.
