Archive through December 04, 2004

[dkamp]

Hi Phillip! Last time I went to my local bearing distributor's counter in search of the NICE605, they ended up not finding a listing in their suppliers and cross-references, but I carried in the steering box and shaft, and we just measured it up for a common thrust bearing. Most bearing manufacturers have something that'll work, and it's not a hard-to-find size- pretty common, really.

Kevin- not a 'dumb' question, really- the 100's correct engine was the 10hp (K241). If the tractor's been well-used, it could be that Charlie's scenario is true- if they had an 8hp, and the 10hp died, they may have just slapped it in. Likewise, the decals, etc., as noted, or perhaps it's even got a different hood... mebbie it was a 70, someone put in an 8hp, and put on a 100 hood... (of course, that NEVER happens with Cubs)...

 

[dkamp]

Bryan, Phillip- there's one steering mod you can do that's substantially better than the NICE605 bearing...

...install one of these...

 

[tcbusch]

Dave,
What exactly am I looking at? Or what am I suppose to look at?

 

[kbranch]

Thanks for the help guys, we do have 2 hoods for it and 2 front grills(I think). One of the hoods has a cresent shaped cutout by the steering wheel so you can open the hood without hitting the steering wheel, and the other doesnt have that cut out so to fill it up with gas you have to take the entire hood off. One of the hoods I remember having the 100 decal on it and the other one has nothing.
As for the steering wheel it has neither on it, it just has a thin nut in the center holding the steering wheel on, probally is supposed to have sum sort of center cap but it doesnt.
Also if somebody could post some pictures of a 100 and a 70 from all angles, that might help me figure out which one it is.
BTW I am only 16 so forgive me for my Cub Cadet ignorance , but I have been reading the forum for quite a while now. I plan on restoring the 100(or 70) for my senior project.

 

[dkamp]

Terry... the yellow thing, right in the middle of the picture... that's my 'steering box'. It's a hydraulic steering valve! Full Power Steering!

Great for loaders!
BTW... don't remember who mentioned it, but adding weight to the REAR of a tractor that has a front-end-loader doesn't relieve the front spindles of any load... it just keeps the hind-end on the ground. You're picking a load that's 2-3' in front of the machine, and that weight has to go somewhere... it pushes DOWN on the nearest axle, and lifts UP on the farthest. Here's how I dealt with front-end loads:

New knuckles made from 1/2" 1020 steel plate, 1/4" gussets on front and rear, trailer spindles with 5-bolt hubs. As you can see... tires are next. Probably 20-800-8's or so...

 

[digger]

Posted by Kraig on May 24, 2004 - 08:07 am.
CLICK HERE to read it.
Man it sure is easy to search the archives and come up with this stuff!


(Message edited by cproctor on December 04, 2004)

 

[wheinsohn]

Kevin B.,
The pictures will not tell you much because other than engine(10 or 7hp), the only thing different is the steering wheel. One just had the acorn nut and the other had a steering wheel with about a 2" cap that went over the center to cover the nut.

 

[digger]

Kevin B,
How bout you postin pics of yours and we'll go from there.

 

[kbranch]

Sorry Charlie, but my sister took her digital camera to college with her, and we dont have any pics of the cub, but next time we bring it home I will take pics and scan them.

But yall are saying that the 100 and the 70 are exactly the same except the engine and the cap on the steering wheel? Cuase if they are then I might try to find a 70 to restore of my own, since I just love the way the 100 looks, it looks so much better to me then all the other cubs after it. It has that BRUTE FORCE look to it.

 

[digger]

Kevin B,
There is a BIG difference, one's a male and the other is female!

Figured I better fix that spellin error for I got my a$$ jumped too!

(Message edited by cproctor on December 04, 2004)

 

[kbranch]

Thanks Charlie, you crack me up.

Looks like I need to start looking for a 70 with sum fenders, creeper gear, and headlights so I can give my dad the creeper and fenders cuase I wont have a use for them, he does though. i dont like the look of the fenders but I do like the headlights. Is it possible to put the K301(12hp) in the 70? I have always had an urge for more power out of everything!!

 

[digger]

Kevin,
You can put anything in a 100 if ya want to and have the time, money and patience!
You crack me up too, but you can cut the Sorry Charlie crap! LOL

(Message edited by cproctor on December 04, 2004)

 

[zfriedman]

If it makes you feel better, I'm floating in the haze.

Next time some moron comes in with questions about starting their damn tractor, tell em to look for posts related to Zfriedman. Somebody out there has to be as dumb as I am.

I got the solenoid and starter to click/go when I turn the key, which is nice I guess. I can't get the damn thing to run though. Thanks for all the help, but I give up for now. I rather move snow with my bare, bloody hands then try to get anything else fixed, this is about as much fun as having someone stab you repeatedly.

As for RTMFM MF, the free one don't say a damn thing except to not try to start it for more then 10 seconds, and wait 60 seconds after that.

Best of luck in whatever the hell y'all are doing.

 

[tturner]

You sound pretty DAMN discouraged. Just don't do anything stupid; like "accidentally" catching it on fire

 

[digger]

Zach,
Sorry you feel picked on, I posted a comment about it in the sandbox.

 

[jstorma]

Dave, Terry,

I thought the same thing. I can't find any wheel weights in my area so I thought if I fabracated a weight bracket to bolt onto the back I can put the 2 50lb breifcase weights on it for blowing snow. Oh well. Maybe I should just mix up a batch of concrete and make my own wheel weights.

 

[digger]

Jim,
I'm not real sure about this but here goes,
I've heard that the front weight bracket from the newer Cubs will or can be modified to fit the 82's. I'm sure someone will speak up and let us know for sure.

 

[tcbusch]

Zach,
Try this schematic. Put the negative side of your meter to ground.
Using the red letters I put on the picture you should get the following readings if not I'll point out a possible solution.
Check the wires in the order below. For example check to see if there is 12 volts at points B,H,C

B,H,C - 12 Volts all the time, if not maybe Bad wire
E,F - 12 volts when key in start position, if not maybe bad key switch
G,Q - 12 volts when key in start position, if not maybe bad safety switch
A,L - 12 volts when key in start position AND the solenoid clicks, if not maybe bad solenoid or red wire between A and L
K,I - 12 volts when key in start AND the solenoid clicks, if not maybe bad light blue wire A and L
J,M - 12 volts when key in start AND the solenoid clicks, If not maybe bad regulator
D,P - 12 volts when key in on position, If not maybe bad switch.
Hope this helps,
Terry

 

[tcbusch]

Jim,
Pick up some weight lifting weights from a garage sale or retail. Then bolt the wights using a 3/4" bolt to a piece of 1/4" flat stock of steel. Mount the piece of flat stock to the inside of your wheel rim. At least thats what I did on the one arm bandit.

 

[farmall gray]

You guys speaking of the thrust bearing #, As I recall, 605 is not the complete part #. It has a letter after the 605, like 605N or something like that. I was able to get them from a local bearing house a while back but needed the complete NICE
part # for them to interchange it. Anybody have it handy?