Archive through December 04, 2004

[dkirk]

Here is an easy test for proper functioning of a Delco Starter-Generator (SG) unit. A friend told me about this, it’s logical and really works. It can be done on the workbench or tractor with drive belt removed, and all wires removed from the F terminal. For the bench test you’ll need a battery, jumper cables, and a test lead. On the tractor, only the test lead is required.

The usual electrical failure on these units is that they will motor but not generate. This is caused by the generator field coil failing in open circuit mode. This test will check for electrical continuity through the generator coil without disassembly of the unit.

On the bench, ground the SG with the negative jumper cable to the (-) terminal of the battery, and connect the positive jumper to the A (armature) terminal and to the (+) terminal of the battery. Connect the test lead to the F (field) terminal of the SG unit, leaving the other end free. On the tractor, turn the key to start position. The SG should spin up rapidly and run like any DC electric motor. While running, take the test lead that’s connected to the F terminal and ground it to the frame of the SG. The unit should begin to slow down. This indicates the charge coil is good. If it does not slow down, the coil has failed in open circuit and will need replacement. Don’t continue this test for more than a few seconds as your running the charge coil fully shorted.

To understand why this works, check out the SG wiring diagram on this site:

http://www.simpletractors.com/service/electrics/starter-generator.htm

 

[mgonitzke]

 

[tturner]

Does anybody know if the super cubs and diesels had a different windbreaker/ cabbett because of their length. My windbreaker don't act like it wants to fit on my regular 782. Thanks abunch Tyler

 

[kweaver]

Mark M - since Charlie left out the main point I'll fill in , NO the engine and rearend don't use the same oil (no connections between the two). The engine uses engine oil , the filter on the rearend is for the hydro pump in the rearend.

Travis ......... well that's all I'm saying !

Bruce don't damage the wall , the head will heal

Zach's problem in a nut shell:
Well when you get stuff without working for it I guess you want all the answers handed to you also ...

 

[farmall gray]

Charlie,
You must save EVERYTHING.
I knew it was something like that but I was suffering CRS. I didn't even remember posting that. Anyhow, when I got those, I got 3 and have only used 1 so far. The 782 is due for a steering box rebuild before spring.

 

[thoffman]

Trler "T",
I'm pretty sure the 782"D" is the same size as the 782 gasser.

 

[lbaker]

Ken- Finally got that main jet out of the carb. Think you were right about the lock tite. Soaked with PB for 2 days, finally used an easy out. Now to the dealer to get a new what ever that jet is called!

 

[zfriedman]

WHOA. Calm down here people. I take a one day break and the whole forum freaks? I got a flood of e-mails and I come in and check here and I got a whole lot more forum posts related to me. If I didn't respond to your e-mail, sorry, I might have thought I already read it.

To answer your questions/or to comment, in some rough order:

-(Tyler)No, I'm not lighting it on fire.
-(Digger) I got somethin new comin to the sandbox.
-(Terry)Thanks for the little checklist/schematic (see comments below)
-(Wes)I filed the battery contacts to make em' shiny a while back, thanks.
-(Keith) I do 'get it' I just didn't (note past tense) understand why everything wasn't working. It helps to know that not everyone here is a genius. (see below).
-(Torin) No biggie.
-(Norm)Exactly how do I tell if my new battery is 'good'? I'm gettin 12 on the voltometer.
-(Travis) Oh my god, Can electrons really be gay?

-(Bruce) Thats what I do, tell that to my english teacher. I'll pass on taking pride in my accomplishments. As I said above, I do have 12 volts comin out of battery...and no matter what I do my garage wall won't forgive me for anything. (Bad joke.)
-(Terry) Read on.
-(David) How rapidly? I don't really have a way to tell how fast its goin, but it goes. Have yet to do that experiment.
-(Ken) Mistaken.

In case there is confusion: The solenoid clicked and the S/G turned yesterday, but the tractor would not start. I had tested most the points before the schematic, and I was gettin 12's.

Today is another story. Long story short, the previous owner of the tractor had cut lots of wires and put them back together with electrical tape. When I shift the wires in certain positions, the cut ends of the wires change position inside of the tape (cause he did a bad job). Sometimes they connect, sometimes not, sometimes they barely do and make this very annoying buzzing noise and I get weird readings like 4 volts or 7 volts. Also, the wire on the safety switch (orng. and black) is stripped on an edge, and when the exposed copper touches the frame (grounded) things don't work.

Basically, I can't give you enough info to diagnose anything until I go around and check all the jerry-rigged wires. I plan on putting the wires back together using those 'nipple' electrical clamp thingys. You can figure out what I mean.

As for the VR, looks like someone rigged that up funny to, pictures of all sortsa stuff tommorow.

I'll deal with the sandbox crew tommorow. And I am aware of the registry, but that doesn't mean i'm runnin off in fear.

I guess any mild drama really creates a change of pace here, thats expected I guess, I mean how much excitement can you really get out of talkin bout tractors? Thats not a hating comment, don't email me cause I somehow insulted you on that one.

To the helpers, haters, and all those in the woodwork, Thanks for your time and goodnight.

 

[balbrecht]

Zack, I just went through a bunch of fun with the electrical stuff on a 127. The one thing I would recommend is if some has previously played with splicing the wiring, and it is the old cloth covered wiring, head to the CC dealer and buy a new wiring harness. I looked at mine that had been cut and patched and just replaced the entire thing. It saved me time in the end after I started removing the old wiring and had it fall apart as I was removing it I figure it was a smart move. It will be good for another 30 years, and when I got done I had no doubts about any of the wires (i.e. if it didn't run, it sure wasn't the wiring). Good luck. -Brian

 

[sblunier]

Tyler,

Yes, SGT's had a different windbreaker, the foot rest mounts are different and the doors are longer.

I had a 982 (SGT) windbreaker on my 149 for 2 years, then I traded it to Kent Wood for a 82 series "standard" windbreaker. Kent has the 982 breaker on his 782.

The SGT breakers will fit on the "standard" sized tractors with very minor modification. Likewise, the standard models will PROBABLY fit the SGT's, but may be short in the door length and need a bracket or two made.

I have done the SGT to Standard mounting several times, and just finished mounting/modifying an MTD compact diesel windbreaker to fit an 1811......there is lots of "same-same" in most of these things, especially if you are capable of "tweaking" things here and there.

 

[sblunier]

Zack,

Good advice below, buy a new harness and start over from the beginning........why fight some other morons crappy work?!?!?!

 

[jbliler]

Ok, looking for some 149 guidence. In the hyd lift linkage,I am looking for why the arm just after the hyd cylender is a two piece unit? It seems that a lot of cylender lift is lost in this joint about 1 1/2 inches below the cylender rod end. I do need to drill and use a larger size pin or spirol In the lower 1" shaft that the arm runs on Am loosing some throw on this worn pinhole. Looks like a 1/4 inch pin will fix this for another 10 years before replacement. Between the two problems I can only lift the snowblade about 2 1/2 inches

 

[dkamp]

For those of you that aren't aware, Zak is 16 years old, and makes his money the old-fashioned way- by shovelin' snow and mowing lawns. He's not like most of us, where we just re-budget our normal incomes to drop a Ben Franklin on a wiring harness, nor does he have the time to drop school studies and burn midnight-oil for the sake of making a machine run. He wants the cub alive so he can improve his ability to make college money. Please cut him slack, and treat him like a human being who's both frustrated, and confused by something upon which he's had no previous experience working.

Since I'm now in his local area, if his parents don't object, I've offered to drive over and help get his problems sorted out. If that DOES fly, I'll give you reports accordingly, and mebbie (if permitted) snap and post a picture of him on hs RUNNING tractor.

 

[bmcmeen]

Jim S. -

Yes they did, and it can also fit wide frames with some drilling. I've had mine mounted on both the 1450 and 169.

They don't rate the bracket - but will hold five suitcase weights (which are generally in the 42-45lb range).

I'll find some pics and the PN in a bit...

 

[gwsmith]

zack....glad to hear you starting to solve your problems....in no time , you'll be out pushing snow.....

 

[bnecker]

For those who believe . . . .

Maybe St. Nick will deliver a wiring harness . . .

How often does one get personalized, professional, knowledgeable hands-on assistance from one of the best in the biz ?

Somehow I get the feeling that Zak is one lucky 16-year-old ! ! !

Ken. Isn't about time you started your thread ?

 

[rchristensen]

Jerry B
I take it this is the arm you are refering too. The reason for the bendable arm is too allow for float for items like mower decks so they can ride up over obstacles. You should not be loosing any lift if the arm is not bent or worn. There is a hole in the arm just above the bend that you can install a locking pin to make the arm solid so you can have down force on any implement. It is not uncommon for the spirol pin attaching this arm to the rockshaft to be broken and then more often than not someone replaces this spirol pin with a poor substiture which causes the hole to get worn oblong, then you have problems. You will either need to replace the arm and rockshaft or try and drill it to the next size and install a proper spirol pin. Once you get all the slop out you should be good to go.

 

[jeaston]

CC rear weight bracket. 190-447-100

(Message edited by jeaston on December 06, 2004)

 

[jeaston]

 

[rchristensen]

Jerry B.
One more thing I might mention. The upper part of the bendable arm needs to fit snug and the pins you use should fit good. If the upper part gets bent and has enough slop it can move sideways and then when you don't have a mower deck on it the arm can fold back and if there is any sideways slop it can get over into the plastic fan and remove some of the fins. That is one of the first things I check when I get another cub or replace a fan.