Upgrade

[Neil Mullins]

Found the time today to degrease & clean up the sheet metal & external parts to finish assembling the 12 HP. The cylinder head had a pretty good head gasket “fire ring” groove wore into it. So out comes my set of hand stones that I use to keep milling machine tables flat & true. Took about an hour but achieved a surface within .0005” using a precision straight edge & feeler gauge. Then I realized I didn’t have any sort of gasket sealer for oil pan, valve cover box, etc. So stalled out there. Pics later

 

[Neil Mullins]

Had to repair a bolt hole in upper heat shield. The broken part was missing, so I had to improvise. Patch is from 1/4” steel. It is all I had to work with.

 

[Neil Mullins]

Have most of the refurbished 12HP back together

 

[RAllison]

Have most of the refurbished 12HP back together View attachment 149650View attachment 149651

Your getting closer,she'll be good for another 50!

 

[mgwin]

Shouldn't the plate be solid with no notch, and only the round holes? Like the ones on the 1x8/1x9 series.

 

[Neil Mullins]

Your getting closer,she'll be good for another 50!

Amazing isn’t it. That at one time IHC built things to last a lifetime. With just modest care & PM

 

[Neil Mullins]

Shouldn't the plate be solid with no notch, and only the round holes? Like the ones on the 1x8/1x9 series.

IDK what the 12 HP came off of. There was no indication of anything but a “V” notch to allow access to the spark plug.

 

[RAllison]

I don't know if it's supposed to be the same cover plate as yours Neil,but here's a pic of mine on a127

 

[Neil Mullins]

That’s like what is on the 10HP that’s in the 106 tractor now

 

[RAllison]

Looks like its gonna work regardless,huh Neil

 

[Neil Mullins]

Quick spray bomb paint! Lol

 

[Neil Mullins]

Now to find a helper & a day to Swap the 12HP 301 into the tractor . as I said i9n the beginning somewhere wanting to swap engine & install a creeper drive at same time.

 

[dfrisk]

Neil - You mentioned not having gasket sealant or dressing. I've used HYLOMAR Universal BLUE gasket dressing on my last 2 Kohlers, and it's been used on a 302 & 351 Ford, and an IH 7.3L PSD, haven't used any on a FARMALL yet but that day is coming.
If you check Hylomar's website they list the companies that use and recommend Hylomar for sealing gaskets. I used to use Permatex in several different flavors, but I kept having vacuum leaks on 1/10th and 1/5th cubic inch 2-stroke glow plug engines burning alcohol & Nitro-Methane fuel with a few percent different types of oil, including castor bean oil. The Hylomar Blue sealed them up forever, Permatex about 2-3 weekends of racing, they were 1/10 and 1/8th scale RC race cars & trucks. My Kohlers don't leak either.
I used to be able to buy it at Blain's Farm & Fleet when Permatex packaged it for Hylomar, but I have to buy it on-line now. The thin shim gaskets in a Kohler engine, a thin swipe on both sides keeps those gaskets sealing and the die casting will be easy to remove, Hylomar doesn't harden. And the gaskets in the valve spring compartment, same deal, ditto the oil pan.

 

[Neil Mullins]

I used a product from Fel-pro that is designed to seal metal to metal fits like the area between engine block & rear main bearing cap. On the side cover & shim gaskets. For everything else I used brush on Permatex aviation. I didn’t put anything on the valve spring cover/breather box gaskets. Figured I’d check valve adjustment after break in

 

[Neil Mullins]

After a long break from working on this project I finally broke the tractor down to install the creeper drive & re-maned 12 HP engine.

Tear down went along pretty good. Clean up inside frame rails, the usual caked in dirt, grass etc.

Creeper unit bolted in. Started looking at driveshaft/clutch assembly… I had forgotten all about building a new driveshaft 10+ years ago. I apparently didn’t have 5/8” CRR on hand so I had turned 3/4” on both ends to make it work back then. Not a big problem, other than I didn’t bother to place the spiral pin hole needed for the shorter creeper driveshaft length. “I’ll never need that”. RIGHT!! LOL. I had also turned the pilot end of driveshaft to a smaller diameter & have replaced the bronze pilot bushing with a double row sealed ball bearing. Which has worked out great.

 

[-CӞ]

After a long break from working on this project I finally broke the tractor down to install the creeper drive & re-maned 12 HP engine.

Tear down went along pretty good. Clean up inside frame rails, the usual caked in dirt, grass etc.

Creeper unit bolted in. Started looking at driveshaft/clutch assembly… I had forgotten all about building a new driveshaft 10+ years ago. I apparently didn’t have 5/8” CRR on hand so I had turned 3/4” on both ends to make it work back then. Not a big problem, other than I didn’t bother to place the spiral pin hole needed for the shorter creeper driveshaft length. “I’ll never need that”. RIGHT!! LOL. I had also turned the pilot end of driveshaft to a smaller diameter & have replaced the bronze pilot bushing with a double row sealed ball bearing. Which has worked out great.

 

[Neil Mullins]

Built a quick jig today to tension/ release clutch spring. Makes it really easy to replace friction material, spiral pins etc.

 

[Jake Olsen]

This is my clutch press. Works great.

 

[Neil Mullins]

 

[Neil Mullins]

Now to make a spring back up washer .060 thicker than original to make up for the material faced off of these plates. Hopefully that will keep clutch spring tension near OE.