• This community needs YOUR help today!

    With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
    We need more Supporting Members today.

    Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.

    Why Join?

    • Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
    • Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
    • Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!

    This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:

    Upgrade Now

Upgrade

IH Cub Cadet Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
2B81FB23-C7E7-4D5D-8FF7-2E81CDE223E2.jpeg
 
Have it stripped to the short block now. To this point it don’t appear that it has ever been apart since new. Cylinder shows very little wear as far as “ring” lip at top of cylinder. However there is some light scuffing on the exhaust valve side.
 
Valves Still sitting up like there is very little if any “valve recession”. Overall for something of this age, & who knows what kind of care it had. The old engine appears to be in way better shape than I had hoped for.
The remaining oil was in horrible looking black condition, but almost no mucky sludge in valve box or oil pan.
AE18E6C6-78BC-4072-82C2-6816BFFE0705.jpeg
 
One other word of advice, check the hub closely on the starter pulley/pto clutch basket, that hub is just swaged or staked on, and it routinely transmits full engine HP to the mower deck, snow blower, anything pto powered, but the fact the hub is loose will be most evident while starting the engine and the starter spins but the engine doesn't. I've had two slip, my 72 and 129 I sold 16 years ago, both now welded, as is my 70.
 
Actually it will be round 3. Had it all lined up ready to adjust once & realized I needed to install the bearing snap ring. Of course an interruption or 2 later I was rushing. Haste makes waste I guess.
 
It’s only been 15+ years since I done this LOL. Back then I had a dip tank to remove paint & grease, & a glass bead cabinet to make things look new again. OH well I’m not restoring the finish on my tractor. So all I’m doing is restoring mechanical items. & will do a bit of touch up with a spray bomb on the engine before final install.
 
Rather than take it apart to line it up, I believe that you can use a three jaw puller to depress the center button and thus release the tension enough to rotate the friction disc into alignment with the set screw holes. I seem to recall doing this with the last one that I rebuilt.
 
I
Rather than take it apart to line it up, I believe that you can use a three jaw puller to depress the center button and thus release the tension enough to rotate the friction disc into alignment with the set screw holes. I seem to recall doing this with the last one that I rebuilt.
I agree a 3 jaw puller should work. I have already loosened the bolts, moved friction disk, & readjusted the clutch.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top