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GLEN - On that CC/Gator, I can understand why the builder wanted to use two rear axle assemblies, increased weight capacity, but I think chain driving the second axle would work better and design them as a walking tandem.

Maybe Kraig can post some pic's of JIM CHABOT's twin engine tandem rear axle grader he built. Seems to me he designed his grader so it was walking tandems. It was VERY cool!
 
Denny, Jim used two rear Cub transmissions just about like Warren did.

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Here's one that former forum member, Mike Schultz, posted years back. Sure would like to get in contact with Mike but I've not been able to find any new contact info. I have his old info including the town he lived in.

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Kraig,

Any close up shots of that rear drive axle assembly? Chain drive looks heavy duty - anyone know what size chain that is? 60R or something??

That blue REALLY does nothing for me! The Minni-Mo is pretty cool in the background though!
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Mike, that's the full resolution of the photos. They were posted back in 2000. I believe they are scans of prints. Sure would like to know what became of that Cub and Mr. Schultz...
 
Yes, seems like a tallented man! Glad you saved these for us all. Just looking at the picture, it kinda looks like he made a walking beam for the rear axles.....except it doesn't walk like we are used to see them!
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MIKE - I guess it depends on what type of "walking beam" susopension you're used to seeing. No, it's not like a Hendrickson walking beam on a truck rear suspension, but if you look at the tandem rear drive axles on ANY road grader it's exactly like that except the roller chains are inside the oil-filled box. And except for the walking part, most skid-steer loaders use roller chain drive, with the front mounted bucket they would always be tipped forward.

Neighbor had a little Minnie-Mo R like that one. It was really crude compared to our '39 Farmall H, and it made the H seem powerful in comparison too. The blue Cub Car golf cart doesn't bother me, and I even kinda like the color, but those people in the rear seats better have MIGHTY SHORT LEGS....
 
Makes you wonder if the back seats were built for midgits? Perhaps he had "short" people in his family?
Honestly, the walking beams I am used to seeing is on equipment, nothing driving the wheels. Remember, I lead a sheltered life!
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MIKE - My hydraulic dump cart has walking tandems, http://www.solexcorp.com/productfiles/pronovost/503.html

I found it very slightly used in great shape at a local short-line ag equipment and lawn & garden sales place. Works great behind the 982 hooked to the Cat O to sleeve hitch adapter I made. Wish I could find a larger model, something around 10,000# capacity to pull behind my Farmall's & pickup. I pulled it home one Saturday morning 4 yrs ago behind my pickup the 4 miles from the shop, and with the tailgate up I couldn't see it at all!
 
Dennis,
Nice to see you bought up some Canadian made produts! THANKS! Yes, I have seen the larger brothers of yours around here. Pronovost makes some good heavy duty products. Their snow blowers are fairly decent too if you have an need for a 6 or 7 foot blower for a larger tractor.
I have plans/hen scratch here I drew up a long time ago for a tandem walking beam for an ATV trailer made of heavy walled aluminum for hauling wood. I just need to come up with the spare $$$ to get it built. A guy I know welds aluminum and said he would do it over the winter sometime when he isn't as busy fixing buldozers and hi-hoe's. I like the looks of them to begin with. Tandem wheels look great. Even on forage or harvestor wagons, I like the looks of the rear axles being tandem instead of a single axle.
 
MIKE - My trailer has 6 inch tall side boards made from plastic decking 2X6's on it, nicely done by the original owner. I've only had 1 or 2 loads on the trailer I had a problem dumping, it was loads of black dirt I loaded with my loader tractor, heaping loads that ran over the tops of the extensions. I had to back up with the 982 while holding the aux remote lever then shift the hydro forward to get the load started raising. I've loaded up loads of crushed rock up to within an inch or two of the top of the steel sides heaped up in the center higher than the top of the extensions and the 982 dumps them at idle.

I like the fact that the tandems on the trailer are far enough back that the loaded cart transfers a lot of weight onto the tractor. But with using the hitch on the 3-pt it does make keeping the frt wheels on the ground hard sometimes. A full load of rock just makes the frt tires skim the ground on the 982 even with the 50 inch mower attached. I don't have enough clearance to run the hoses to the frt remote outlets with my frt weight bracket attached!

I had plans to build a cart similar to this one, then I saw a similar cart for sale in Northern Tools catalog for a couple years, then I found this trailer. I couldn't have bought the steel to build this cart for what I paid for it and it wouldn't have been as nice. I used it as a flat bed about a year ago to move a 1500# concrete slab, I removed eight 3/8" bolts and all the sides were in a pile in the yard ready to set the slab on the cart.

One thing I would change on the cart would be to install a longer cylinder, it has a 3" dia X 10 inch stroke cylinder now and it dumps about 45 degrees, I'd like to install a 3" x 12 or 3" x 16 cylinder and get it closer to 60 degrees. That's why I pull it from my 3-pt, I can raise the hitch.

The 4-wheel wagons Dad had when he farmed were all on 4-6 ton running gears. I've pulled many many 10,000# loads of corn with my old tractors. It would be nice to have a bigger version of this cart that I could pull with the big tractors or my pickup. I could haul my own mulch from the mulch dealer a quarter mile down the road, maybe some black dirt from the landscape place a half mile down the road to fill some low spots in the yard.
 
Ive seen several green machines with K series engines running a heavy duty air cleaner like a modern industrial twin engine would run (round body with the vertical rain hood on the intake stack) and was thinking I could find the shell and filter and make up a radiator hose type manifold and mount the assy. under the hood ontop of the heat shield of my engine, then run a vertical intake stack through the hood infront of the muffler when I relocate it to the correct side of the tractor. I know most 1466's didnt have visible air cleaners through the hood but Ive seen a couple 1566's that did and lots of 1206's and more of that family. Would that not let my little K301 breathe properly and is it more work than its worth? I think it'd be neat aesthetically but I dont want to lose functionability with the tractor as its my worker around the house. Ill try and get a few pics of the unit itself and hopefully wont have to crop out an off topic tractor (I know its the sandbox but I dont want to break any rules lol)
 
Sorry in advance for the off topic machinery, just trying to get a couple good pics of the assembly Im referencing, if this gets poofed I understand.

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<font size="-2">ALL PHOTO CREDITS GO TO WEEKENDFREEDOMMACHINES.COM</font>
 
Eventually making it look like these:

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I think its definitely do-able but just figured Id get feedback from the pros lol. Its on the list of add ons for sure though
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GLEN - Those HD air cleaners bring BIG BUCKS. I've heard the KT17's in the 317's had a very similar air cleaner that would probably work just as well. I think you'd have to add the extension up thru the hood but that might work to your advantage anyhow.

I eventually want to convert the oil bath air cleaners on both my FARMALL's over to dry-type air filters. IH used the idea of cleaner air being up above the hood on the 5X88 & 3X88 2WD tractors, they put the radiator air inlet up on top of the hood towars the front of the tractor where the operator could keep an eye on the inlet for debris, Forward Air Flow was their name for it. Only bad thing was the fan sat in front of the radiator and pulled air thru the radiator and was driven by a long splined shaft running thru a hole in the radiator from the waterpump. That shaft was a bit of a problem rotating at engine speed or faster with the HUGE fan out on the end of it.

Anything you can do to keep dust/dirt out of your freshly rebuilt Kohler will help it last longer and run better.
 
There was an NOS unit on ePay for well over 900 bucks, the JD engines use the same one on the VTwin kohlers and its oriented vertically ontop of the engines like the KT series in the x82's and that whole shell minus the filter and hoses goes for closer to 20-50 depending on parts included and condition. I wasnt sure if itd restrict the airflow to the kohler and give it asthma haha or what. Im sure its more efficient because theres more surface area on the filter so more dirt and dust can be filtered. Itd definitely be unique though and Im all for that haha.
 
Anyone have the dimensions on the muffler for a 1x66/86 tractor? Im gonna skin my farmall cub muffler and make it a better scale version of an oval body muffler than the Allis Chalmers muffler I have now.
 
Got the muffler built, Ill post pictures once I get it finished, its a close half scale muffler to the ones off the real internationals. Plasma cut the sides off the farmall cub muffler, packed it with some heavy steel wool and then hand bent with a homemade brake an oval shell out of stainless steel.
Needs some grinding and a good bead blast visit then a coat of my 2000 degree flat black paint.

On the topic of the heavy duty air cleaners, would one of the newer plastic jobbers like the ones the commercial zero turn mowers use work on my K301? As before I dont want to restrict its breathing too much. I know, Ive got more ideas than I can do to the tractor and Im not the best at making and sticking to decisions, so thanks for putting up with me haha. Cheers all
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