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Archive through September 29, 2008
- Thread starter bchalk
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Bobby B,
I've never tried welding cast iron myself, though it is possible to do it, it is difficult. Perhaps Kentucky Ken will come out of the woodwork on this, but from what I understand, in order to be successful the repair area would need to be preheated over an extended time, and cooled very gradually once the weld is complete. It might also be possible to braze the parts, which would require less heat. Cast iron is brittle, and welding induces thermal stresses which can cause cracks to form and spread if not handled carefully.
I've never tried welding cast iron myself, though it is possible to do it, it is difficult. Perhaps Kentucky Ken will come out of the woodwork on this, but from what I understand, in order to be successful the repair area would need to be preheated over an extended time, and cooled very gradually once the weld is complete. It might also be possible to braze the parts, which would require less heat. Cast iron is brittle, and welding induces thermal stresses which can cause cracks to form and spread if not handled carefully.
Art/John -
Once the 1x2 came out there definitely was a factory "hush kit" to retrofit the Nelson cannister style muffler to 100's. Someone posted the installation paper awhile back. However I think the last 100's to come out probably still had the "pepper pot" style muffler, in keeping with the Kohler spec. Kraig?
Once the 1x2 came out there definitely was a factory "hush kit" to retrofit the Nelson cannister style muffler to 100's. Someone posted the installation paper awhile back. However I think the last 100's to come out probably still had the "pepper pot" style muffler, in keeping with the Kohler spec. Kraig?
As a new one for the day----- seeing as several of the first cubs have been found and saved has the LAST one been found??? is there a record of what model it would have been? It seems that a 982 would be the most advanced after the CCO.
Art, John
The cross mount muffler was not in the earlier TC-103 parts manuals for the 70/100, just the pepper pot. I doesn't show up until the later TC-113 manuals that include the 1X2's. That doesn't mean it may not have been available before then because in the TC-113, the "kit" (item 137) is listed as "Parts Accessory". If you look thru the TC-113 closely you will find it contains some error's......in some cases you can find that the same page may be used for several different models and what the page shows does not always apply to a given model. Steering wheels on a 1x2 for example. It shows two different ones, but it does also say one does not apply. Or the listing for the decal for the creeper in a 70/100. They didn't use one, but the same page is used for later narrow frame models which did. Trivial things I know, and there are other examples, but the bottom line is, in some cases the TC-113 may not always be correct,...... but is is sure better than not having anything at all.
The cross mount muffler was not in the earlier TC-103 parts manuals for the 70/100, just the pepper pot. I doesn't show up until the later TC-113 manuals that include the 1X2's. That doesn't mean it may not have been available before then because in the TC-113, the "kit" (item 137) is listed as "Parts Accessory". If you look thru the TC-113 closely you will find it contains some error's......in some cases you can find that the same page may be used for several different models and what the page shows does not always apply to a given model. Steering wheels on a 1x2 for example. It shows two different ones, but it does also say one does not apply. Or the listing for the decal for the creeper in a 70/100. They didn't use one, but the same page is used for later narrow frame models which did. Trivial things I know, and there are other examples, but the bottom line is, in some cases the TC-113 may not always be correct,...... but is is sure better than not having anything at all.
BOBBY - Bruce is correct....cast iron is considered "Weldable" but requires special rod, a special process, and pre & post heat. Also the metal itself has to be really clean which is a problem with Kohler engine blocks. The required rod is mostly nickel, which has been very expensive the last couple years. Plus the energy required to heat the casting for welding isn't getting any cheaper either.... Depending on where the break is and if all the pieces are still available I'd have Your Buddy pull the engine out, take it all apart and find a good welding shop that has experience welding cast iron and get their opinion and an estimate of the cost. If there's just a bulge under the starter like most windowed blocks brazing would also be an option, but if the boss for the stub shaft broke out of the front of the block close to the main bearing bore it may make more sense to buy a rebuildable engine.
Like Bruce I've never welded CI but My Dad was actually pretty good at it. It takes practice and with how expensive the rod is I'm too cheap to try getting any experience.
KRAIG - Don't You hate it when prior owners are too lazy to put a small piece of masking take on things that shouldn't be painted?
Like Bruce I've never welded CI but My Dad was actually pretty good at it. It takes practice and with how expensive the rod is I'm too cheap to try getting any experience.
KRAIG - Don't You hate it when prior owners are too lazy to put a small piece of masking take on things that shouldn't be painted?
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