Archive through September 06, 2010

[pvanbenschoten]

Art, I don't know why my tries at finding the mystery part number in Google didn't return the same one yours did. So, now we know it is a bearing. I hate to open the package just to see what size it is. Maybe I'll take the bottom off so it still looks nice sitting on the shelf

 

[tstewart]

Well the cub got a good workout this weekend which brings up one question... But first some pics of course!

The last two pics are where I was cutting... the first half of the load was pretty quick to get to but the second half was way down the hill next to the clearcut for the pipeline. My 1 ton I dont dare go down the hill with so along came the cub... The weeds were so thick and high (about 6' high in the pipeline) that the first time down there going at a pretty steep grade I actually came to a stop and spun out in the weeds a few times going down! Had to back up and pick a new line. But after the second trip I had a nice 'tunnel' through the weeds. Even though I had some clutch slippage earlier with ~2000# and up with the dump cart loads (oh probably 500-700# depending) going at a steep grade I didnt have slippage on the clutch but traction was an issue. On the toughest parts I'd slip a few times and might have to back down a ways restart, throttling down low in 1st gear and putting all my weight on the uphill side I never got stuck.

Anyhow, my question is just how much of a hill can these tractors take without having a problem with oil? And what is worse, going steep down, up or side to side?

 

[lfcurtis]

dave ross some came as factory snow fighters and used one p/s pump. add on units added another p/s pump for the plow. all to say a pickup steering pump will run anything u want on a cub

 

[proessler]

Digger, been gone since Friday & catchin' up.You're # 1 AAAAAAAOKAY ,IMHO

 

[wshytle]

I made an "accessory" for the shifter on my 1250 yesterday. It's basically an extention to help shifting without having to bend over the steering wheel. It still needs grinding and painting but works great. I altered nothing on the tractor so everything can be reversed back to factory.

The next two pics show the clearance.

And yes, that's bird "stuff" on the dash. He lives in the barn and was put here to tick me off.

 

[aaytay]

Wayne-
Nice job! I've been thinking of doing something similar to that for my 1872. I think it's poor designing on <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT>'s part to put the hydro control behind the steering wheel like they did on all of these hydro tractors. It means the operator has no other choice but to "hunch" over the steering wheel as you mention.

I bet if one of the sponsors came up with a slick looking "kit" like your modification, it would sell like hot-cakes...

 

[digger]

We're still working on the cookie thing guys!

The same thing is happening on WFM as well.

Mike, Bryan and I worked on it almost all day yesterday and still can't find out why this is happening.

We'll either get it or dump Discus and find a new format!

 

[cjrolke]

oh great keepers of knowledge in cub cadet land

i have searched and could not find the pictures i am looking for

i am looking for pictures of a red cub cadet original

i have seen them recently can can not find them

also anyone got any info for making a narrow front for an original?

thanks

 

[kmcconaughey]

Hey, it worked. I can post again.

 

[tillenden]

Is there a difference in the lift rods for the front blade and the snow blower? I found a blower without the lift rod. I already have a blade with a lift rod. The part numbers are different on the CC site, but some of the other sites just say a lift rod for a wide frame attachment.

Anyone know?

 

[jbaker]

Todd I,,, the lift rods on my qa36 and 42" push blade are different in length, if you need measurerments I can post them later after I go out to the barn

 

[kmcconaughey]

Todd, it's easy to make a lift rod. Here's a "how to" that Steve Blunier did many years back for calculating the length the lift rod should be. He made it for a blade but the procedure would be the same for a snowthrower. Park the tractor with the snowthrower or blade attached on a level surface with 2x lumber under the tires but not the snowthrower or blade. With the snowthrower or blade resting on the floor and the lift handle in the fully lowered position measure the length between the lift rod attaching holes. Bend the lift rod to fit that length. A heavy duty bench vise and a big hammer is needed to bend the 1/2" rod. Heating the rod with a propane torch before bending it will sure make it bend easier.

Or you could make an adjustable length lift rod.

Or you could make a really crude adjustable lift rod like I did just to test the length.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Wayne, neat mod! Would a threaded coupler work for attaching an extension or would it need set screws to keep it from loosening/turning as the lever is moved?

 

[jott]

I wish my 100 looked like that!

 

[aaytay]

"Would a threaded coupler work for attaching an extension?..."

Kraig-
That's how I envisioned using an extra Hydro Control Lever from a junk tractor.

Excuse the poor drawing, but something like this:

 

[meross]

Hello,
I have a IHCC 108. I have been using the snow plow to level my yard a bit. My yard is mostly sugar sand so it's pretty light. My questions is is there a way to prevent the plow from coming off in reverse? I know I can just lift the plow but if I want to pull anything with it, it will just pull off, I know it will cause it happened. It looks like some sort of bracket could connect the plow where it sits in the front to the posts where the mower deck attaches. I don't have the equipment to make it. If the steel is soft enough fabricate it won't hold up and if it's hardened, I don't have the tools to fabricate it. I was hoping someone ran into this and came up with a solution. Thanks.

 

[digger]

PSA,

I've started a new thread in the Sandbox for a new format for the forum.

I would like to have everyone's input on what our next move will/should be.

 

[mgonitzke]

Michael R.-

Sounds like either the QA 'horns' on the tractor or the part of the subframe that attaches to it is very worn. It should not come off.

 

[wshytle]

Kraig, Art-

I've been toying with this idea for several months and the questions you raise are the reason it's taken so long. The way I did it looks bulky but is very tight with no chance of twisting. I even have the extra ql shifter handle but I found this 3/8"x7" bolt and then noticed it didn't need bending so.... The way you mention would bring it further from the dash and closer to the operator and that would be good. The 7" bolt gives just enough height to be comfortable for me. I used it for about 1 1/2 hours yesterday mowing and it helps my back situation a lot. It's also helpful in controling a jerky trunion which is my case at present. The tractor also needs the pump gasket so I'll take a day to remedy all of that soon.

Just be careful not to get it too long to where the shifter slapps your lap in reverse. Mine comes close but not too close.

This log in stuff is a pita. I hope ole Charlie isn't pulling his hair out.

 

[meross]

Matt G,
I did not think about it coming off when I did it but... It is called a push blade, that should have giving me a bit of a warning, however, as my wife points out I can be kinda thick and stubborn. From what I can tell the only thing holding it in, in reverse is the part IH-544170-R1
the quick hitch assembly. If that moves out of position then the plow slides off the front. I'd like something that can lock it in. If I push it will not come off, however if I pull it comes out.