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Archive through September 02, 2011

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Good morning everyone. I have started digging into my newest project (104). I posted pic earlier but anyway. I removed the deck assembly and found that I could turn the K241 over by hand, meaning no compression. I removed the head and as soon as the bolts were removed the head came right off with no effort. I am hoping that the head gasket was the culprit. Cylinder bore looks great so far and the crank operation is normal meaning int, comp, exh. Getting to the point here I really am not sure whether to continue with new head gasket, rebuild carb. etc. without a complete teardown. I do not have the funds currently to take that on. In your experience should I look for anything for signs that it has other issues than head gasket? Just looking for advice here. I have already priced my replacement parts including points, carb rebuild etc from my usual online supplier.
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. I haven't even checked the drivetrain yet. Basically I want to get her running and cleaned up for running around the yard. Not looking for full overhaul at this point. Sorry for rambling but at a crossroad here and hate to just part it out. Tim P.
 
Lucas J. Pretty tough looking little fella. I love those tires. It makes the tractor look like it is ready for some serious work duty.

Rich Trevaine. Donald Tanner made some good suggestions. Let's take things a few more steps further. I am somewhat a "lazy" details (the more information that is provided the better that we can assist the customer) person so forgive me if I ask a few questions.

You say that tractor won't go forward when you move the lever. Do you mean it will go backwards/reverse if the lever is moved to that position? .... If so then you have a sticking check valve. If that is the case the remove the tunnel cover and MARK just one of the check valves. Now switch both valves and if the tractor now moves forward and not backward then you need to either try cleaning or replacing the sticking check valve.

Next question.... Did you re-install the charge pump cover to the correect orientation? If not you are not gettng enough charge pressure to the rest of the system. (One should ALWAYS mark the side of the charge pump cover and the corresponding pump housing part to help achieve correct orientation during reassembly.)

When priming a pump, I suggest removing at least one of the check valves and using a clean funnel then keep pouring oil slowly into the open hole while every so often hand rotating the pump. This helps get oil to other parts of the system. Don't ask me how much oil it will take. Just use common sense and go from there. You want to fill as much of the pump and motor areas and other parts of the pump as possible and help bleed out any air in the system.

DON'T run the engine while doing this. It is a by hand operation only. Slow ... yes.... worth it? DEFINITELY!!!

As Donald T. said.... Make sure the rearend is filled to the correct level. If it already is then the little extra oil that you are adding during the priming process won't hurt.

PLEASE KEEP US POSTED ON YOUR PROGRESS.
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Now... A little footnote about being a "DETAILS" person. Whenever taking on a project for the first time. Go slow and take time to literally study, photograph/take pictures, and be PATIENT during the whole process. By doing so you will tend to avoid common mistakes. When I tell people to actually talk to the object in a calm manner and "ask the item" what is it that (You)/I am not seeing then in a sense I am doing what a doctor would do and that is ask the patient to tell me where it hurts a.k.a. ... what am I not doing correctly. This boils down to one word.... FOCUS.

Last month while on a Road Trip to Oskaloosa, this little fella caught my eye. He'll be coming home by next spring at the latest.

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Timothy, These engines have an ACR automatic compression realese. If you turned it over slowly by hand you would'nt see a lot of compression. Can you give us a pic of both sides of the head gasket and the top of the engine. You didn't mention if the old head gasket was, in fact, blown.
 
Bill: Very interesting! I, on the other hand, didn't know freight cars had back doors! Now to find one for my HO layout. Cub Cadets aren't the only place to spend money!!
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Dave, I forgot about the ACR. I removed the head and it basically came off with the gasket, which does not look blown. The bolts were tight. I will get some pics. tim
 
Timothy - Looks like the rings are bad , to much oil. Head gasket blown too.
 
Timothy, that gaskets blown, Look at the block first. The area around the inside of the gasket has a sealing "ring" on it. You can see this "ring" around the top of the block. Now on the head side of the gasket. See how from the point at the top to the right bolt hole on the bottom is what I'd call clean. then the left side is black (blow-by). Now look at the head, see the area that has the black past the "ring", how the "ring" acually disapears in that area of the head. It was blowing combustion gasses past the gasket.
Bring the piston up to the top and wiggle it, a little wiggle is acceptable, very little. If it rocks back and forth your asking for trouble to not fix it right (piston, rings and a bore). Steal a glass top from an end table or something and see how big a feeler gauge you can fit between the head and glasss top. I'll bet it's a little warped. Local machine shop here will do a head for about 25 bucks. Use that glass and some sand paper and some time is a lot cheaper but takes some time.
Ken thanks, I got a kick out of it.
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thanks dave and ken. Not sure what my next move is. really not into complete tear down.
 
Timothy - You can do a cheap "put it back working" tear down. I had the same problem with my K301 years ago. The cooling fins had stopped up with grass and mice and got to hot and killed the temper in the rings and got to burning / blowing oil. I just pulled the head the oil pan and rod / piston and honed the bore real good then re-seated the valves and washed it real good with kerosene then put it back together with new rings and gaskets.
 
Timothy how loose is the piston in the bore? You've kinda answered your own question, you don't want to do a complete tear down. So get the head to seal and see how it runs. Kentucky gives good advise too. I can't tell you what a ring set costs but the head gasket is 11 bucks at CC specialties, one of the colorfull boxes at the top of the page.
 
Andrew- No all of them dont only K241(10HP) and up mite as far as know.
 
Not knowing for "sure" but I'd say that ALL generator/starter K-Series engines are to allow for the slow/weak cranking of the generator/starter.
 
thanks to all for your advice. I need to sleep on it, I have my shopping list already printed from one of the colorful sponsors above. on a side not this poor gentlemen in my neighborhood did not make out so well during "Irene". He moved his very nice Ford out toward the road away from the trees so he could get out. Felt bad for him even though I am not a Ford man. I cannot post the pics. Am I limited to how many per day? Just wondering
 
Timothy - You just post your heart out ... <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> Cub Cadet stuff here ... the Ferd damage from Irene in the Sandbox under the storm damage thread please.

Keep the pics under 100k , which means about 96k max or they wont post.
 
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