Has anyone on here tried different trunnion springs on their hydros? I would like to make mine operate more consistently in speed when going up and down slopes in my yard. I have installed new oem springs and still have the variation to the point that I need to change the hydro lever to adjust speed when on slopes.
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Archive through October 28, 2011
- Thread starter dtanner
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Charlie H Zuck
you might try adding washers in between the springs. That will make the whole thing tighter , But you will never get all that out. just becaue of what it takes to move the tractor and when you head up a slope there is more work on the hydro. my .02
you might try adding washers in between the springs. That will make the whole thing tighter , But you will never get all that out. just becaue of what it takes to move the tractor and when you head up a slope there is more work on the hydro. my .02
Believe it or not Lucas, just some fine grit sandpaper on a sanding block and then emery cloth to smooth it off, not quite glass smooth but it looked alot nicer without all the excess metal on it.
Hang in there Norm, I cant begin to imagine how that must feel. Were here for you if you need us.
Hang in there Norm, I cant begin to imagine how that must feel. Were here for you if you need us.
Norm, my prayers go out to you and your family.
mhomrighausen
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- Marlin Homrighausen
Lucas J. Thank YOU!!! I'll see if my neighbor has his electrical testing stuff out and handy.
Charlie Z. Donald Tanner is correct about the hydro and going uphill. If you put in too strong of a spring then you run the risk of a jerky hydro at all times.
Charlie Z. Donald Tanner is correct about the hydro and going uphill. If you put in too strong of a spring then you run the risk of a jerky hydro at all times.
When installing a 3 pt (sleeve hitch style) on a 149 is there a bracket, like on 147, that goes on rockshaft or does rockshaft just get a pin through it frame to frame like a NF tractor? I need to purchase 3 pt assembly and want to be sure I am getting all parts I need. Thanks.
elamott
Well-known member
Norm:
Sorry to hear about your loss. My thoughts and prayers are with you. Try and think of all of the great times together.
Earl LaMott
Sorry to hear about your loss. My thoughts and prayers are with you. Try and think of all of the great times together.
Earl LaMott
Hi i have a question
I just rebuilt the pto on my cub cadet 125.
i replaced the springs and the friction disk and the center thrust button. when i tested out my pto the fiber button on the lever mechanism cracked and split into pieces. i put a new fiber button on and this happened again. should i use a bronze button instead?
the turnbuckle rods on the side werent that tight and the button still broke. i dont know what to do cause winters coming and i need this tractor to work
thanks to all
I just rebuilt the pto on my cub cadet 125.
i replaced the springs and the friction disk and the center thrust button. when i tested out my pto the fiber button on the lever mechanism cracked and split into pieces. i put a new fiber button on and this happened again. should i use a bronze button instead?
the turnbuckle rods on the side werent that tight and the button still broke. i dont know what to do cause winters coming and i need this tractor to work
thanks to all
I haven't been here in a while, but got some projects that were delayed by my broken leg that have seemed to take on new urgency with this early snowfall here in the Mid Atlantic. I am up and around and back on the job, though still limping a bit. This year has been hard on the Cubs too, between all the hot weather and all the rain, and family members unfamiliar with the tractor's quirks helping me out with the mowing while I was laid up.
Before the accident this spring, I was able to perk up the barely running 125 with a reground exhaust valve, and some lapping compound to get it running reasonably well, but I am starting to hear what I think is valve leakage again when I first start it up cold. The engine soon rights itself, but it could stand a proper rebuild. It does okay for mowing if you don't push it too hard, but I don't think it would do very well if I hung the QA-42A on the front with a tired motor, no hydraulic lift, and a loose hydro linkage.
The engine in the 129 seems to have more serious issues, mainly a misfire which develops once the engine is run under load for about 30 minutes. This tractor seems to have a history with this problem, once I fixed it by replacing the points, which had a cracked insulator, and once it was due to vapor lock resulting from an exhaust leak. Unfortunately, I have also seen this occur from a worn points lobe on the camshaft. I have also gone over the valves by cleaning them up, lapping them in, and taking care to adjust the lash slightly toward the loose end of the specs. I am open to ideas before committing to major surgery on the engine though.
Fortunately mowing is done for the year, yesterday I finished the lawn with the 125 yesterday afternoon, and mounted the blade and winter tires on the 102 last night. Here's to hoping for a mild winter!
Before the accident this spring, I was able to perk up the barely running 125 with a reground exhaust valve, and some lapping compound to get it running reasonably well, but I am starting to hear what I think is valve leakage again when I first start it up cold. The engine soon rights itself, but it could stand a proper rebuild. It does okay for mowing if you don't push it too hard, but I don't think it would do very well if I hung the QA-42A on the front with a tired motor, no hydraulic lift, and a loose hydro linkage.
The engine in the 129 seems to have more serious issues, mainly a misfire which develops once the engine is run under load for about 30 minutes. This tractor seems to have a history with this problem, once I fixed it by replacing the points, which had a cracked insulator, and once it was due to vapor lock resulting from an exhaust leak. Unfortunately, I have also seen this occur from a worn points lobe on the camshaft. I have also gone over the valves by cleaning them up, lapping them in, and taking care to adjust the lash slightly toward the loose end of the specs. I am open to ideas before committing to major surgery on the engine though.
Fortunately mowing is done for the year, yesterday I finished the lawn with the 125 yesterday afternoon, and mounted the blade and winter tires on the 102 last night. Here's to hoping for a mild winter!
Lucas, for your 122 with a blade, I would stick to the standard 6 or 8 inch wide rear tires with chains, and some kind of extra weight in the back. If you have those balloon tires on front, consider switching to narrow tri-ribs or bar treads if you have an extra set of narrow front wheels. You can't steer worth a darn on snow with the wide turf tires.
Bruce I have a set of vredestine v61s on the front so I shouldn't need chains there. Thanks for the advice!
Glen, im glade it's somthing simple. Thanks for the info!
Paul, I am 99.99% sure that it does not need the extra braket it just goes through the frame like a n/f. Maybe somewon else can confirm.
Glen, im glade it's somthing simple. Thanks for the info!
Paul, I am 99.99% sure that it does not need the extra braket it just goes through the frame like a n/f. Maybe somewon else can confirm.
After looking further, I answered my earlier question about the 3 point, but have a another now. When was the #2 tiller first made? Did they offer them during the same years 149's were made, or did the #2 come out with the quiet line tractors?
I guess the first order of business is to take a good look at the spring slot and check for slop in the linkage. Thanks to all for the input.
You are right about too many washers. I tried that route some time ago by putting 2 washers in each end and was it ever jerky. I took one out on each end and now it is tolerable. It still varies speed up and down hills, but not as bad.
You are right about too many washers. I tried that route some time ago by putting 2 washers in each end and was it ever jerky. I took one out on each end and now it is tolerable. It still varies speed up and down hills, but not as bad.
I installed an electric lift on my 126 and I would like to know how to modify the bracket that lifts my plow / snow thrower up and down. What I'm doing doesn't seem to be working if anyone has any pics with this bracket installed to there electric lift I would like to see them. (We are all ready getting snow in Rhode Island) Thanks
